For those who are concerned that the OEM filtering is inadequate and want to improve their chances of riding through off-grade fuel.
This T1N OEM filter choice is less expensive and doesn't have the Water In Fuel sensor port to deal with.There is a one time cost of the OEM plug in piece for the connection. Use a MAHLE KL 313 filter.
My suggestion. = Use a MAHLE KL 313 filter.
Add the T1N pre-filter and change that on whatever filter change schedule which you feel adequate. Don't change the more expensive OEM NCV3 filter until necessary, or until you just can't bear to have it in service any longer.
No worries as to flow rates, proper pressure rating, compatibility, etc. The original existing OEM filter has the WIF sensor. No real need to duplicate that.
My concept for installation would be to snuggle or hang the added filter unit in the area above the OEM filter. I'm quite certain that there is room in the T1N engine bay. I have no idea for the room in the NCV3.
I have no data.
vic
IGNORE FROM HERE DOWN. Go to post #4. Use the MAHLE KL 313 filter.
Added:
The plug in part needed:
The part is called the "preheater valve" and is part # A6110780249
This may also be needed:
The part # for the fuel line is A6120700532 and list price is $18.50.
Dodge 05080460AA
Note: So far I have not been able to verify the working pressure rating of the OEM plug in part and fuel hose. That could be a deal breaker for the OM647 and OM642 engines with in tank fuel pump. (Added: The filter itself is good to go.)
https://infopart.org/febi-bilstein-38294-part
The Mahle KL 100/2 filter is listed for the OM647 engine. So ok for in tank pump.
http://catalog.mahle-aftermarket.co...7CC5B57A0F6F98C05?filterId=1219&d=&show=motor
Use a MAHLE KL 313 filter.
Lots of other OM647 parts too.
http://catalog.mahle-aftermarket.com/na/modules/motor/detail.xhtml?motorId=16986
Above, the author indicates that a pre-filter helps to address many problems.Here is an interesting read on duramax issues. Fuel velocity and filter size/capacity plays an important role. Just because a filter still passes enough fuel doesn't mean it is usable? The stock filter is likely cellulose media type, and is fairly small. I don't see any disadvantage to adding a ~120gph pre filter? Donaldson offers a synthetic media water separator which is supposedly more affective than plain cellulose.
http://dmaxstore.com/products/?route=product/product&product_id=49
DMax Store Article said:That leads us to the reason the pre-filter solved the problem. Suddenly the main filter had a much more manageable task: all it had to do was catch the small fraction of larger particles that made it through the pre-filter. The percentage of water and other contaminants making it through to the injectors dropped dramatically. The presence of a good pre-filter along with proper maintenance in keeping with the main filter service intervals generally allowed the early Duramax injectors to run quite happily.
Adding or replacing with an entire fuel filter system can be expensive.Thanks for the information. Very interesting.
Does the OEM Sprinter filter suffer the same inadequacies as the Duramax? Are the Sprinter filters as poorly sized? A 3.0 L engine uses less fuel overall. I assume that the Sprinter filters are a different manufacturer.
The way I interpret the information that was communicated, there may be great benefit and the best bang for your buck by just adding a pre-filter and keeping the OEM Sprinter filter in service. Maybe an entire fuel filter system change isn't really cost effective.
The article has me re-thinking the value of procrastinating on... I mean, extending my fuel filter change intervals too long.
vic
I like that idea, but I believe that the NCV3 OEM fuel filter is quite expensive.Maybe simplicity, add another factory filter twice the chance of catching foreign stuff maybe change that on at half the recommended intervals suggested.I also emailed raycore to pick their brains,waiting for reply.
This T1N OEM filter choice is less expensive and doesn't have the Water In Fuel sensor port to deal with.
...
THE FIX I Installed a fuel filter design from Europe for European Sprinters without the water sensor on the bottom and no water drain valve. No Leaks, no air, no stalls, starts everytime !
I never saw a great engineering design in a fuel filter with 7 connections to possibly leak, it should have an in and an out. The fix has 5 connections that still could leak, but fixed my van
The filter is only available in North America on-line, mine came from eBay for $30.
Since my fuel filter has never had water in it when drained, and the WIF light never came on, I think I will be fine without a drain (LEAK) hole. The Top connections are a perfect fit.
Part Numbers :MB # 6110920201, or 6110920601, or 6110900852, or 6120920001,
Fram P9436
Mahle KL100/1 or /2
Bosch 0450905930
MANN WK842-13 OR -17
Hengst H70WK11 or H70WK18
WIX WF8239
Baldwin BF7756
My suggestion. = Use a MAHLE KL 313 filter.
Add the T1N pre-filter and change that on whatever filter change schedule which you feel adequate. Don't change the more expensive OEM NCV3 filter until necessary, or until you just can't bear to have it in service any longer.
No worries as to flow rates, proper pressure rating, compatibility, etc. The original existing OEM filter has the WIF sensor. No real need to duplicate that.
My concept for installation would be to snuggle or hang the added filter unit in the area above the OEM filter. I'm quite certain that there is room in the T1N engine bay. I have no idea for the room in the NCV3.
I have no data.
vic
IGNORE FROM HERE DOWN. Go to post #4. Use the MAHLE KL 313 filter.
Added:
The part is called the "preheater valve" and is part # A6110780249
This may also be needed:
The part # for the fuel line is A6120700532 and list price is $18.50.
Perhaps Bruce can verify that I show the proper parts info. He's definitely one of our parts gurus.The water sensor goes in whichever way the receptacle for the plug will point towards the rear of the vehicle so that the plug will reach.
The part that you broke is called the "preheater valve" and is part # A6110780249 and is reasonably list priced at $14.00. It is part of the fuel return system from the fuel rail and injectors and either diverts fuel into the tank for cooling or into the filter if the fuel is cool.
I don't think you can run the truck without it because you will be leaking fuel. You could conceivably tie the two hoses together and plug the inlet on the filter to prevent leakage but check on the part availability before you start cobbling things together.
On the issue of breaking the clip hold down for the fuel line, you are pulling fuel through that hose to the pump on the front of the motor. Some tie wraps might hold it down.
The part # for the fuel line is A6120700532 and list price is $18.50. These prices came from Boston Freightliner in Everett, MA and are current as of 2/3/2012.
Good luck and be careful next time you change the filter. I have yet to find a good tool to remove the fuel line connections. The white clip has to be pushed in when removing or installing and do not leave the white clip pushed in for a long period of time because it will distort the ring that holds it down. I have used a pair of curved needle nose pliers on the exposed black part of the fuel line from the top, gently rocking back and forth until it pops free. I believe that a quick spray of some lubricant on the fitting might make removal easier.
Dodge 05080460AA
Note: So far I have not been able to verify the working pressure rating of the OEM plug in part and fuel hose. That could be a deal breaker for the OM647 and OM642 engines with in tank fuel pump. (Added: The filter itself is good to go.)
https://infopart.org/febi-bilstein-38294-part
The Mahle KL 100/2 filter is listed for the OM647 engine. So ok for in tank pump.
http://catalog.mahle-aftermarket.co...7CC5B57A0F6F98C05?filterId=1219&d=&show=motor
Use a MAHLE KL 313 filter.
Lots of other OM647 parts too.
http://catalog.mahle-aftermarket.com/na/modules/motor/detail.xhtml?motorId=16986
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