2014 Roadtrek SS Agile Modification

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casdclassb144

New member
Goal
Modify my SS Agile to be comfortable for hot and cold weather plus run 2 refrigerators 24 hours and normal running equipment by solar. Batteries to float each day


To Do List
insulation
will ad more later
 
C

casdclassb144

New member
[url]https://www.dropbox.com/s/3v0hxv7118mmi9a/20140713_181219.jpg[/url] [/IMG

7/12 and 7/13 removed all cabinets and 1/4 inch plywood ceiling

I assumed a Roadtrek would be insulated to some extent. What a surprise, nothing

install
fatMat against ceiling - they recommend straps but want to do more ?
Thinsulate - purchased on this site
Reflectix or Thermal Tec Cool it, have some of both
Thinsulate - listen to any advise if this layer is needed, at least the ceiling

any suggestions welcomed, should I go over the Joices ?
 
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mrcolin2u

2005 Sprinter
That's an ambitious project, looks like a lot of work. I'm also interested in solar and more battery power for my 2005 Airstream Interstate.
 
Mein Sprinter

Mein Sprinter

Known member
casdclassb144 said:
[url]https://www.dropbox.com/s/3v0hxv7118mmi9a/20140713_181219.jpg[/url] [/IMG

7/12 and 7/13 removed all cabinets and 1/4 inch plywood ceiling

I assumed a Roadtrek would be insulated to some extent. What a surprise, nothing

install
fatMat against ceiling - they recommend straps but want to do more ?
Thinsulate - purchased on this site
Reflectix or Thermal Tec Cool it, have some of both
Thinsulate - listen to any advise if this layer is needed, at least the ceiling

any suggestions welcomed, should I go over the Joices ?[/QUOTE]

Are you serious? No insulation?? I have 2010 Roadtrek SS Agile that is insulated using some kind of fiber wool, although not too great; still very hot in the cabinetry.

Call Roadtrek and protest... your's is a 2014-- 5 year Roadtrek warranty???

cheers...
Click to expand...
 
C

casdclassb144

New member
Mein Sprinter said:
Are you serious? No insulation?? I have 2010 Roadtrek SS Agile that is insulated using some kind of fiber wool, although not too great; still very hot in the cabinetry.

Call Roadtrek and protest... your's is a 2014-- 5 year Roadtrek warranty???

cheers...
Click to expand...
I guess they consider the black coating insulation, It is a joke but no surprise, A friend of mine that does carpentry work say we need a Japanese company to build RV's then all the others would improve, Think the Roadtrek is bad look at the Winnebago Dodge
 
C

casdclassb144

New member
FlyingBreadBox said:
No insulation at all in a $100,000 Plus RV. That really blows. They make too much $$$ on Roadtreks to be that cheap. Almost Criminal
Click to expand...
again, a joke but I knew ahead of time and measured out the features verses being built custom, You still wouldn't have the insulation quality of doing it yourself custom, it costs lots of money to have things done. The government isn't good for much these days but they should regulate RV's , it is claimed as a residence

I am not the kind of person to go after somebody or sue etc. Move forward, I made the decision
 
C

casdclassb144

New member
mrcolin2u said:
That's an ambitious project, looks like a lot of work. I'm also interested in solar and more battery power for my 2005 Airstream Interstate.
Click to expand...
I have installed and working already 7- 100 watt flexible panels , removed the 3 regular panels for weight and room factor , Using the midnite 250v controller . This runs my Direct TV 24 hours - satellite - recording , installed Norcold 3.8 cu ft and , Router switch , battery backup etc , Brings my 10 batteries to float except for one cloudy day we just had, it will be intereting if it can recover, The cloud Marine layer from the ocean (I am 10 miles inland) have been heavier in the morning, RV isnt facing direct south , blocked by the house so real world situation , I would say you need 4 6 volt batteries minimum to run what I am doing

solar info - purchased Midnite elsewhere but their price isn't bad, when you are producing 30 + amps you need a very good solar controller - you won't find these for $200 been paying $189 for the panels picking them up while on my work travels

http://www.renogy-store.com/100watts-bendable-panel-p/rng-100db.htm



Chuck
San Diego CA
SS Agile Custom
 
C

casdclassb144

New member
To Do Modified 2014 Roadtrek SS Agile Modification

casdclassb144 said:
Goal
Modify my SS Agile to be comfortable for hot and cold weather plus run 2 refrigerators 24 hours and normal running equipment by solar. Batteries to float each day


To Do List modified 7/16 from Original
Run Network wires - Modem Router - switch etc.
Locate UPS for Direct TV for Electronics
Run Two Direct TV Cables plus Winegaurd switch
Seal Cables in roof
Install Maxxair behind Air Conditioner - exhaust or intake pro's and cons roof vents - https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=314902#post314902

Fantastic mounted toward front - exhaust only
Run 12 volt wire system separate from Factory installed
Relocate plug for air conditioner and install temperature on\off (hein - 2010 3500 RV build)
Insulate Agile (Thinsulate - Reflectix - Cool max Dynamat - using FatMat (hein - 2010 3500 RV build) (purchased Thinsulate from hein)
Finalize Magnum Hybrid already installed with Midnite solar controller
install manual cut off switches
install Magnum Smart Battery Combiner (ME-SBC) - (hein - 2010 3500 RV build)
install 2 slot wire ducts across ceiling for additional wiring
remount 1/4 inch plywood leather covered ceiling
reinstall cabinets thinking about ventilation between
Work on bicycle mount in place of rear top storage cabinet

Phase 2
Solid Mount 7 Solar panels on the Roof. Work on adding 6 more mounted off the side when Stationary - some kind of hinge system that is easy to remove. These 100 watt panels weigh 3 lbs each.

Looking from the back RH Side bed with cabinets underneath (open from top) fold out into isle to make double bed
Looking from the back LH Side

http://www.amazon.com/Whynter-FM-62...2-spell&keywords=Whynter+12+volt+refrideraors
2nd refrigerator (purchased 2 years ago for $600 - wow has that gone up in price!), works great) with cabinets under neath between Hot water heater and Furnace

Enclose batteries that were mounted underneath the rear back (6) now near slide out - shorter wire to inverter and better weight balance , possible trailer in the future or small car tow

Final
Take to Local Sprinter Suspension specialist for the best Modifications for the balance of weight
Click to expand...
 
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casdclassb144

New member
Big Decisions but i had this in my mind what I have to do: Maxx Air wont fit with 2 vents out or in on Agile , I have a PAC-130 sitting for my house seeing everybody everybody has air , I will start with this unit and remove air on roof , easier solar panel installation , many other units smaller and less power but would rather start here and see how it works out, Will test before final install of ceiling
 
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casdclassb144

New member
Removed the air conditioned today, I kept looking for Screws to hold the unit on, I found out the only ones were the long ones I removed already. The sealer was holding it from moving, I had to pry very hard to remove from the roof. Will finish install of the Maxxair Saturday, I have a Delonghi heat pump I already have in the rv testing , drawing about 8 amps on air, also has good heat but doubt I will use it because of battery drain.One thing I was surprised RV's do, The Dometic air conditioner used the same size hole 14 inch x 14 inch as for Maxxair , made life easier, these photos look strange, must have been the sun.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5alku4rzd3orhlc/2014-07-18 16.01.13.jpg

Roadtrek routed the one coax cable though the air conditioner under the mount, I couldn't live with that, Will make a separate hole for 3 coax wires , I know they saved making a hole for a possible leak but pretty shabby to me.

Chuck
SS agile
SD CA
 
C

casdclassb144

New member
The Day started out slow. Couldn't get the Maxxair to sit on the seat. seemed crazy, I thought for a while it was out of round, I put some grease on the plastic and that was it, Mounted nice. Connected wires and tested against the Fantastic, no comparison in noise, Maxxair much quieter , I reversed the direction, I couldn't believe the air the Maxxair pulled in.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yqa4kpwt40gsuua/2014-07-19 16.32.30.jpg

Next Solar # 4 wire run, The original hole to the roof was behind the drivers side. I picked up a few connectors from Home Depot , Got up on the roof , enlarged the whole , The said " I can't run the wires here, It will raise the solar panel and look weird. so I filled the whole , couldnt find much history on this online, mounted a metal plate under neath and filled with Lexan. We will see
hole not used
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xn4z6ader0cownn/2014-07-19 19.33.06.jpg
any suggestions on a better fix let me know

new location
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7e0nm4qtuiwlzbn/2014-07-19 19.06.16.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7c46hqv3xd9mms6/2014-07-19 19.06.24.jpg

Cut 2 holes on passenger side where the awning is, This will hide the connector box for the solar panels. One hole for # 4 solar wires , other for cables for Satellite and Digital Antenna , Winegard will be mounted on the side of the Maxxair raised , I am ordering another Maxxair to replace Fantastic.

New Location with Solar Combiner box and will install Circuit Breakers, Parallel wiring for panels. 7 100 watt panels , possibly one more in the front. I will have to remove Sprinter Radio Antenna and relocate
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7c46hqv3xd9mms6/2014-07-19 19.06.24.jpg

I will fill everything with sealer and run short connectors out of the combiner box so it wont affect the water proofing. I would like the combiner box inside but would mean a big hole in the roof. I am using Parallel because shading and I want to test each panel if inconsistent output.
 
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C

casdclassb144

New member
Didn't get much done today, connected solar combiner box to Midnite Controller , Installed 7 100 watt Renogy flexible panels temporary so I can continue testing 24 hour running, average output later in the day 300 watts out of 700 20 - 25 amps, That's what counts

I mentioned earlier , I will use metal under the panels over the Maxxair. I think the plastic is out because I will be able to have mounts on each end of the metal flat that can connect to the roof or bolts already there.

again, This is temporary to keep the wind from blowing them off, not drivable! yes I did get a great deal on zip ties, had 1 hour left before leaving or work for one day, wanted that 20 amps plus for the 10 batteries

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7e0nm4qtuiwlzbn/2014-07-19 19.06.16.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dptwnbp2g57nakk/2014-07-20 15.13.04.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sb15pd4v50w9pxn/2014-07-20 15.13.00.jpg
 
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casdclassb144

New member
Fatmat inside , The Roadtrek compartment was too connected to removed and reinstall , This really got hot inside, I drilled four holes I will install some screen vents in after enlarging , I had some towels and sheets stored in here and seemed moist even though very dry here

This is going to be a long process but will be able to install half the ceiling shortly but lots of work on the side around the windows then some kind of plug for windows that can be removed made of Thinsulate and Reflectix both sides

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yr5emld1jn771qo/2014-07-26 20.01.16.jpg

Front Maxx Air in Photo
https://www.dropbox.com/s/phj66i05498ud9j/2014-07-26 20.01.47.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xcww9vsus9epb7h/2014-07-26 18.15.09.jpg

Work on next more Fat Mat and sliding solar panels for roof to reach the goal of 1500 watts

text for water leaks next weekend
 
C

casdclassb144

New member
A person was kind enough to send me a private message on my solar setup, They advised me I will end up with Corrosion inside the Midnite Solar Combiner Box, I hated to mount this inside but will take their advise, That is what this site is about I hope.

They also said the flexible panels are curved over the limits, A 30 % bend is allowed and they are correct about them over 30 % , This is a temporary setup so I can test daily output but the panels shouldn't be bent that much , Please excuse cable ties, I am testing and not driving this down the road

There are some very good builds on here, CAD people etc. I can take the heat, maybe if I take the heat and show what a beginner is thinking others will post and don't be afraid of constructive criticism.

I read a post where they had all the electrics where in the rear, I thought it was tight quarters and too much on the panel but it got me thinking maybe move mine back there because I will try to move the heat out, but then I think of the wire run from the batteries , But I am always looking and willing to change

Please feel free to post anything you want publicly, I can take the abuse :)


Chuck
 
C

casdclassb144

New member
This is how bad a Roadtrek is insulated
I have removed the carpeting and used FatMat over the wheel well
https://www.dropbox.com/s/paawzvi9ku5vab1/2014-08-02 19.00.02.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1bzvjty6ezg96q6/2014-08-02 19.00.07.jpg


Check out the blockage of the window behind the cabinet, I will use Fatmat and insulate
https://www.dropbox.com/s/p34i01s02mfs4zi/2014-08-02 18.59.28.jpg

The black is a piece of plastic to block the window, You don't notice from the outside because Windows are very dark
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8j2lvhdkzhx4qff/2014-08-02 18.59.42-window_.jpg

I will update when 3m installed and Ezcool , I have lots of ! purchased full roll locally

I will use foam also, Did the $35 kits, worked great but didn't do much , ordered $300 - 200 square feet, can't purchase locally in CA.
 
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