Glow plug-loose, stuck. What are the options?

Oilburner

2004 2500 140"cargo l/r x 2
OK, long story short, I was trying to replace #1 glow plug with Beru new one. Having PB Blaster sprayed few weeks ago, today for the first time I put socket on it and first try without T wrench revealed that plug is loose. So, continued to unscrew it, appears, that it is rotating, but stuck.:idunno:

Meaning, the part with thread is rotating, but the piece is not coming out. Attempting to tighten - no luck. I did not noticed any blow by right before doing anything, but would not take a chance to start engine now. Plug is moving freely.

What are my options now ? I hope I can fix this with your help (will appreciate all your comments and words of wisdom).
Thanks.
 

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Oilburner

2004 2500 140"cargo l/r x 2
Wonder, if this kit has step by step instructions and kit to re-thread it? I guess, the thread is already damaged and carbon deposits are preventing from removing whole piece.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
OK, long story short, I was trying to replace #1 glow plug with Beru new one. Having PB Blaster sprayed few weeks ago, today for the first time I put socket on it and first try without T wrench revealed that plug is loose. So, continued to unscrew it, appears, that it is rotating, but stuck.:idunno:

Meaning, the part with thread is rotating, but the piece is not coming out. Attempting to tighten - no luck. I did not noticed any blow by right before doing anything, but would not take a chance to start engine now. Plug is moving freely.

What are my options now ? I hope I can fix this with your help (will appreciate all your comments and words of wisdom).
Thanks.
Oilburner
I have one just like it at the moment, 'cept this head is off and on the bench. (The head like the whole engine has been removed for an overhaul).

Probably what happened in your case is the same as what I have observed. Notably as you started to unscrew the GP, the tip at the business end is seized/swollen in the area where it protrudes into the combustion chamber. As you turn it something has to give, so it sheered off at the waisted section just below the nut. It doesn't take much and I was carefully just to-ing and fro-ing the nut in my shop specimen when it sheered observing the tip which was not turning.

Now the wire connection is part of the heater wire probe that extends down into the GP sac and since it is encapsulated with the low part now stuck in the head it remains static when turning the nut.

The tool allows you to break off the tip, remove the sheered nut section, and then drill down into the guts off the GP body, Then by threading the drilled interior you can grab the remaining bit and slide tool hammer it out.

Now in my case I took a punch to the tip but after a few taps I could see I was going nowhere this is going to to have to be drilled out. In about 60% of these types of repairs I can extract the GP remnants, but as always sometimes things go wrong and the tip has dropped into the piston or is so seized it has to be machined out.

Life in a repair shop environment I suppose , things don't always go to plan.
Best of luck with the repair
Cheers Dennis
 

Oilburner

2004 2500 140"cargo l/r x 2
I decided to run the engine, as I did not know, that the plug is really spinning freely before, I probably made all my miles(40k) in such situation. I poured a few diesel drops to glow plug well, then have covered with white paper tissue. Rev the engine to 4000 rpm for a few seconds, shut off. Removed tissue-no splashes on it! Just to mention, the tip which has cable plug on it, is slightly moving side to side, about 1-2 mm. This wonders me, how is possible, that there is still seal and no blow by.Well, as I have no other option now(this is my working van and sometimes, PEV (private emergency vehicle, as I use it to respond to FD calls) I will continue to use as it is.
I managed to remove #3 and replaced within 30 minutes, going slowly and carefully. It had about 3 bottom threads slightly damaged, (please see picture) but new one hopefully will hold well.

Looking for other posts regarding plug removal, I have found this one:
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18075
Very interesting..
 

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lindenengineering

Well-known member
Oilburner
Hello & greetings
Judging by the specimen you have posted! It would suggest that the GP was either loose and not fully seated or the seat is burnt which in turn does not allow the GP to seal hence the presence of deposits on the GP shank.

There is a reamer tool that will cut a new seat and recover the seating available.
Do you have the correct torque for the GP at hand ? Simple things first!
Cheers Dennis
 

Oilburner

2004 2500 140"cargo l/r x 2
Dennis,
Thanks for asking. You are absolutely right. Glow plug had no seal. But it was not loose, at least, I didn't noticed. I have found this info regarding torque here at forum. I didn't use reamer and I should not insert a new one without it. I hope SD Euro Parts will lend it with that gp removal kit (will call them to find out).Now, with engine or head not removed, will all the tools allow to do this job? Looks tight to me.:thinking:
Regards,
Zig
 

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Oilburner

2004 2500 140"cargo l/r x 2
Update on my work.

Have 4 glow plugs replaced, to remove 4 of them was fairly easy.. number 1 is still in the head, I drive as it is for now. Just removed old g.p.relay, I knew it is not working, but didn't expected this bad. Pretty much cooked. Water intrusion?


IMG_0562.JPG

IMG_0561.JPG

IMG_0559.JPG
 

wooffi

New member
Oilburner;
Steve at EuroParts, SD has a broken glow plug removal kit that rents out for $75 for 10 days. ($300 refundable deposit).
This may be your only option to try before you pull the entire head off the engine.
http://europarts-sd.com/injectorremovaltool-sprinter2003-present-1-1.asp
I'll have to tell Steve that the nomenclature in his link isn't right, but the link will take you to the tool for removing
broken glow plugs.
Roger
EuroParts discontinued the service, sad for us home mechanics.


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Oilburner

2004 2500 140"cargo l/r x 2
Just installed new module(new version), have 4 new plugs and module, works perfect, still need to remove plug#1, but this can be done when I get the tool. So far, I noticed huge improvement in morning start-up without using block or pan heater. One code still remains (GP#1). Engine runs smooth, almost no smoke at 35-45 degree. Total cost-140 module and 65 Beru plugs. Now, I have to find a source to rent the tool.
Glad to be a member of this forum, tons of valuable information.
Cheers!
Zig
 

wooffi

New member
I called them too, on a injector removal tool, ended up purchasing one from GB. That worked great. There are a few cheaper Chinese copies around on both glow plug and injector tools. Mostly on eBay.

Waiting now on a injector hold down screw repair tool, it seems I am working through all possible things that can go wrong.

Could not do without this form however.

Wolfgang



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220629

Well-known member
I called them too, on a injector removal tool, ended up purchasing one from GB. That worked great. There are a few cheaper Chinese copies around on both glow plug and injector tools. Mostly on eBay.

...
The above would be good information to add to one of the tool threads. The exact tool brand name/description/model number is good to include in case any links that are posted go away over time.

Keep us updated as to when you're back up and running. Good luck. vic
 

wooffi

New member
The above would be good information to add to one of the tool threads. The exact tool brand name/description/model number is good to include in case any links that are posted go away over time.

Vic,

Thanks for the hint here is a link to the injector puller on eBay, Sealy the more expensive. But I believe the version from China works as well.

Here is the link to the injector hold down screw repair kit. No cheaper option anywhere, I searched.

I did this today and it worked again, just as promised a great tool.

My injectors are in and my sprinter starts without any of hated starting fluid. (It scares the heck out of me), but now I have to search the forums again, because it does not stay running, another slightly bothersome obstacle.

But since this threat is about glow plug removal, my next task if I have to, here a link to glow plug removal tools.

Keep you all posted, tomorrow I will change fuel filter and see if that helps. No bubbles, wondering if the fuel delivery is interrupted when changing the injectors....

Wolf
 
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riggsldan

New member
Recently bought a 2006 sprinter with ~220,000miles. I had a check engine like come on for P0672 (cyl2 glow plug open circuit). I swapped that glow and that fixed the issue. The GP snapped below the threads and i used this kit off amazon to remove it (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BGW1BGQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details). Only $43 for the kit and it was pretty straight forward to extract. But I noticed all of the GPs we're swollen (except cyl4 which appeared to be a new GP). I follow the recommended procedure, lubricating, waiting, repeating, heating of the engine before attempting to crack them loose, lubricating, waiting, try loosening, repeating.

Wondering if i should be concerned with the fact that all of my GPs were swollen like this? Maybe bad controller? previous engine overheating? Or maybe these GPs have been in the van for 220,000miles and there's just a lot of carbon build up. Anyways, I'm slowly going through and painfully, but carefully, removing these. Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated!
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Cheap GPs (or the wrong type!) can swell and fail. The older controller is also more likely to cause this type of failure, as it relies on an internal fuse while the new style monitors GP current, and disables a shorted plug.
 

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