My sprinter will not start.

Hi everyone, I have joined only recently, perhaps someone can help.
I have a 2000 sprinter high roof LWB 313 CDI . I recently acquired this vehicle along with its problem which briefly is it will not start, that is... it turns over fine but will not start.
The little history I have is that it was driving fine and one day the owner came home from a 300k trip to Brisbane and turned it off and when he went to start it again it would not start, he told me that he had a local mechanic (non diesel) look at it for a few hours but the man could not find the problem . He also told me he used “start ya bastard” a few times and it started but after that it did not. When my son picked it up to drive to my place it started immediately via a tow /clutch start, it was then driven for about 1.5 hours to my place and when it was turned off, it started again immediately but consequently when he tried to start a while later it would not start again , I have not driven it myself yet.
I have some experience with petrol engines and a limited amount with an older diesel engine so I am not altogether a novice but this is the first time I have owned a Mercedes.
There are no lights staying on, on dash when the ignition is turned on except for the battery and hand break light, and according to my son who drove it back to my place the glow plug light came on and went off as it normally does.
Logic would indicate that because the problem happened so decisively that it may a sensor or relay.
I will be checking fuses (don't assume anything) that's something mechanic would /should have done.
I am considering physically inspecting the glow plugs but I don’t think it will reveal any thing.

Questions
1. Can any one be able to advise me on this and to any other inspections I could make.

2. Would the absence of any light ( I suppose it would be OBD light) on the dash, indicate that the fault is something that the computer would not pick, up or would a scan reveal an error anyway?

3. I am thinking of ordering “ELMScan 5 Universal OBD II Scan Tool w/ Free Software” along with a OBD 2 MERCEDES BENZ Sprinter 14 Pin cable Adaptor W12 from Ebay , these seem vary reasonably priced does any one have any experience of these or can anyone recommend to me to any other budget scan tools.
That's about all the questions for now ..Thanks

Scan would be the best. I once had a bad connection at the camshaft position sensor that caused a no-start. On mine that sensor is under the plastic engine cover at the back. Mine recovered by simply unplugging and plugging in again (disconnect battery negative post clamp first).

If the fuel rail pressure is not high enough it can cause a no start condition. NAFTA 5 cylinder engines [generally] need 200 RPM or so for starting. Once the engine rpm's are higher (tow starting?) then often the fuel rail pressure will come up high enough to start and run normally. Even a strong normal cranking speed may not be able to attain the higher pressure needed.

The low fuel rail pressure will not necessarily set a DTC. Low fuel rail pressure can be caused by excessive injector leakoff or problems with the fuel pressure regulation components and obviously the high pressure pump, but don't blame that right away.

A scan and live data check is really necessary. I would check the fuel rail pressure at cranking. On the NAFTA engines higher than 3000 psi sticks in my mind as the minimum which is needed. Maybe try an injector leak off test also? Good luck. vic

P.S. - Does it sound like I might know what I'm talking about? Don't be fooled. I was recently instructed on a 5 cylinder engine with fuel rail pressure issues. Your conditions sound familiar. That said, it could be many other things too and that's why you need a scan.

Had a 311 & 313 with similar probs , turned out to be two small O rings in pump at back of engine . replaced & all probs left me

Dingo said:

Had a 311 & 313 with similar probs , turned out to be two small O rings in pump at back of engine . replaced & all probs left me

Click to expand...

O-ring set for repair of the fuel rail pressure solenoid are available from Dr A. It's hard to get out, but it can be done, I done did it. I used the Brail method of extracting and replacing bolts.

But do the leak down test first...

surlyoldbill said:

O-ring set for repair of the fuel rail pressure solenoid are available from Dr A. It's hard to get out, but it can be done, I done did it. I used the Brail method of extracting and replacing bolts.

But do the leak down test first...

Click to expand...

Does Andy ship to Australia, New Zealand or Asia Pacific?

call and ask.

Your profile does not say where you are located. If in Melbourne I suggest trying Eurostar Diesels in Hallam. They will scan and fix the issue .

My vehicle had this problem and was only fixed by replacing the cam sensor.

I'd be checking for bubbles in the clear plastic fuel lines first. And then probably check the codes. Then try a new fuel filter. The o rings for the fuel lines are $6 each at MB, but they should last a long time.

Thanks everyone, I will investigate all this good advice (it might take little while) and report back on the progress.

The O rings can be got from the dealers if needed, and are not expensive. I have carried a set for over 6 years and have not had to use them.

Cheers
Ross

Hi everyone , some progress of sorts,
have done a leak off test (2 times) and the result is no fuel at all coming up , there is fuel in all the clear pipes around the the filter.
I do as not have a manual yet and I have an engine where the low pressure pump and the high pressure pump are at the front of the motor, it appears the low pressure pump feeds the high pressure pump and also the rail and divides somewhere underneath the high pressure pump I cannot see this because the belts and fan are in the way , can any one verify this?
Question ... Could it be O rings (I am going to buy some O rings on Monday cant go astray with a set anyway).
Is it straight forward to replace the O rings, I mean logical , are they inside the low pressure pump so do I remove the low pressure pump and dismantle it and replace them?
Also how to remove the
Sorry if I has a manual I would not have to ask all these questions,
Thanks

Rail pressure solenoid is bolted to the back of the rail.
I'm not sure if you can replace it with generic one. This thing has 20000+ PSI in it.
New solenoid should be around $70 USD.

Hi all , it was the O rings, installed new ones, (one of the old ones was obviously broken) and did a leak down test and no fuel came up? , was a bit concerned for a sec but did the test the second time and a small amount come up so I put it all back together and it started fine , thanks everyone for your help.

Cheers

Glad you got the problem solved. Not every repair needs to be expensive!

Cheers

Ross