I recently changed the tranny pan/converter oil, filter and connector on my 2004. Thanks to this thread it all went as it's supposed to.
There were a couple little things I did to make it easier. With the warnings of draining the converter being messy I fashioned a protector out of heavy duty aluminum foil to divert the oil down into my pan. I turn the edges up on three sides and then form it into place over what I want to protect. I learned to use aluminum foil after a few oil filter removals on my Dodge V8 motors.
Filling the transmission was like watching grass grow. Using a funnel at the top didn't work at all. I first tried a small tube down the dipstick housing, but the flow was way to slow. What did work was taking a cap nozzle from a
90w gear oil Lucas Power Steering Fluid bottle and adding a piece of
Tygon tubing fuel hose.
I made a flat, round, holed gasket out of rubberized cork to help seal the cap because the threads don't quite match the transmission oil bottle. (No gasket needed for Lucas cap.) After fitting the nozzle cap with hose onto the bottle, I fairly quickly tipped the bottle and stuck the hose end into the dipstick tube. While holding the hose and pushing a bit to get a good seal I squeezed the bottle with my other hand. After the bottle collapsed I would pull the hose back and let air back in then repeated the procedure until the bottle was empty. There was no mess and it went pretty quickly. Hope this helps.
Stop filling after 4 or 5 quarts and start the engine to pump fluid into the Torque Converter TC. Add final fluid after that. Otherwise the fluid can leak out.
This was Version #1. It worked, but not as well as Version #2 below does.
This is Version #2. The black hose fits snuggly in the transmission tube. I hold a paper towel or rag under as I move the spout into position and while I do the squeeze and fill process. So far all I've needed to deal with is a couple drips here and there.
Added: If a fluid change doesn't improve your transmission operation you may want to try an additive.
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Also once you are done add a can of BG's ATC plus transmission additive. Any abnormal burnishing of the lock up internal clutch will be smoothed out by this stuff.
All the best
Dennis
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Added:
I have some tips for the Connector Body install.
Don't use the bolt to try and pull the connector into place. The bolt threads into a fitting on the circuit board. It is fragile.
Align and push the connector body in as far as it will go. After mostly in, use your fingers with the 7 mm socket to thread the bolt in until finger snug.
Note: The bolt sticking out prevents full seating. Screwing in the bolt finger tight and just pushing on the connector may yield similar results as my screwdriver levering method. The leverage made me feel better about fully seating without any strain on the circuit board screw mount.
Hold a kinda long chunk tip of a 2x2 against the tranny housing recess. Use a large screwdriver against that to lever/move the connector body in without forcing. Use the socket and your fingers to turn the screw in again. It should turn in some. Alternate the screwdriver pressure to opposite sides of the connector.
Repeat the above procedure until the screw no longer turns in using your fingers.
Use a ratchet handle to snug the bolt in. Try the 2x2 and screwdriver lever procedure one last time. Check that the bolt is still snug. If snug, you are done. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
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A reminder.
With a pan drain and torque converter drain service the transmission can be refilled to the point of overflow. I generally first put in 5 quarts of fluid. After that I start the engine and shift to reverse/forward a couple times without actually moving the van. That pumps fluid out of the pan. After shutting down the remaining 3 quarts (approx.) can be added without any problem.
Added:
Pan Drain Plug Damaged and Stuck?
Have a replacement on hand first.
I got some good advice from Dr. A and took a chisel to it. Half a dozen taps to make a notch in the edge of the giant head and then I angled it and it only took another few to loosen it.