Ball Joint Help - Tire Wear

freedom.machine

freedom.machine

2002 Freightliner 3500
Hello, I Started to notice some extreme tread cupping happening on the entire width of my passenger tire. Along with that, on the highway, my sprinter feels a bit like it's floating to the left and right in the front end which causes some white knuckle driving conditions. After some inspection yesterday, I think I've uncovered the problem. I jacked my van up and supported it with jack stands, then used a long pry bar to force up on the wheels.

From multiple ball joint posts, along with Doktor A's Ball joint bulletins, it seems this is an incorrect way to diagnose the ball joints on the T1N. With that being said, can anyone shed some light on these videos I've taken of each side of my vehicle? I really seems to me that the passenger side ball joint has severe play in it compared the the drivers side.

I've also attached photos of the passenger and drivers side tires to compare the tread wear.

Andrew

Passenger Side:

Drivers Side:
 

Attachments

T

tbuyan

'04 3500 140" low roof cargo w/dually delete
Not so fast. If you read the hundreds of ball joint threads on this forum you'll learn that determining BJ condition is not for amateurs. It requires a dial indicator, protractor, mass spectrometer, sun dial, digital oscilloscope, geiger counter, DIN Certificate of Mastery, DOT/MOT license, special dispensation from the Pope, and a Ouija board.

I only have a couple of those required items, so don't take this as advice: if it were mine I'd replace it.
 
A

Alphacarina

2006 Itasca Navion 23H
freedom.machine said:
So your saying the Passenger BJ is shot?
Click to expand...
Yes, the movement in your passenger side video is all in the ball joint. You have a bunch of play where there should be none and that's probably what's causing the cupping on your tire. It's not unusual to see this sort of thing on the passenger side first, because that wheel deals much more often with broken pavement and potholes at the edge of the pavement than the drivers side does. But, if it was my van, I'd still be changing both sides at the same time

It looks like your struts might be original too?? How many miles on the van?

Don
 
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freedom.machine

freedom.machine

2002 Freightliner 3500
Alphacarina said:
Yes, the movement in your passenger side video is all in the ball joint. You have a bunch of play where there should be none and that's probably what's causing the cupping on your tire. It's not unusual to see this sort of thing on the passenger side first, because that wheel deals much more often with broken pavement and potholes at the edge of the pavement than the drivers side does. But, if it was my van, I'd still be changing both sides at the same time

It looks like your struts might be original too?? How many miles on the van?

Don
Click to expand...
Great break down and the passenger side breaking down first makes sense. The van just rolled over 400k but I replaced the front struts about 60k ago. I might just do all new suspension while I’m at it.

My next question, whole new control arms or just get a shop to press in new ball joints?
 
freedom.machine

freedom.machine

2002 Freightliner 3500
tbuyan said:
Not so fast. If you read the hundreds of ball joint threads on this forum you'll learn that determining BJ condition is not for amateurs. It requires a dial indicator, protractor, mass spectrometer, sun dial, digital oscilloscope, geiger counter, DIN Certificate of Mastery, DOT/MOT license, special dispensation from the Pope, and a Ouija board.

I only have a couple of those required items, so don't take this as advice: if it were mine I'd replace it.
Click to expand...
Haha, that’s quite the list of tools ? Thank you for your opinion.
 
Cheyenne

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
freedom.machine said:
My next question, whole new control arms or just get a shop to press in new ball joints?
Click to expand...
Make sure to read the myriad of posts on the unsuitability of aftermarket lower control arms before deciding to go that route.

Basically NAS/NAFTA T1N's have different LCA's to any other market in the world as they were the only T1N's to get 16" wheels and the none NAS/NAFTA LCA's sold by many USA aftermarket stockists are significantly different to cause tyre rub issues. Be warned!!!

Keith.
 
2

220629

Well-known member
tbuyan said:
Not so fast. If you read the hundreds of ball joint threads on this forum you'll learn that determining BJ condition is not for amateurs. It requires a dial indicator, protractor, mass spectrometer, sun dial, digital oscilloscope, geiger counter, DIN Certificate of Mastery, DOT/MOT license, special dispensation from the Pope, and a Ouija board.

I only have a couple of those required items, so don't take this as advice: if it were mine I'd replace it.
Click to expand...
And yet you never bothered to answer my simple question.

Jodean, post: stated:
"They DID need replacing."
****
vic asked:
How do you know that?

Did you disassemble the part for inspection? Was there some other test that you applied? Did your tires show excessive or odd wear patterns?

vic
****

Some simple info about how you determined your ball joint was bad might help others who also don't have "dial indicator, protractor, mass spectrometer, sun dial, digital oscilloscope, geiger counter, DIN Certificate of Mastery, DOT/MOT license, special dispensation from the Pope, and a Ouija board."


Aqua Puttana said:
..."

Jodean said:
They DID need replacing.
Click to expand...
How do you know that?

Did you disassemble the part for inspection? Was there some other test that you applied? Did your tires show excessive or odd wear patterns?

vic
Click to expand...
 
dbuzz77

dbuzz77

Dbuzz77
i had cupping start on my tires and took it in , they said the alignment was out and i needed the kit installed because 1 adjustment was not provided by the factory. been good ever since
 
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