Possible overheat

mataei

Member
2013 sprinter v6
Van has about 370k on it... knock on wood...
I have been monitoring the temperature lately and the van starts to go about 220 f when I am stopped. It happens with AC and hot weather above 80 degrees.

About 10k ago I had mercedes put a new dpf in because it was removed before.

No other maintenance other than oil, air, and fuel filter change.

It also has a code for p2119
Throttle Actuator Control Throttle Body range/performance.
And this code popped up after I had the new dpf in and the service adviser told me that it isn't going to give me any issues and the van is running great but that was only for the first 200 miles I drove the van and I felt the van being sluggish when I start to go up ramps or from dead starts and if temperature outside is below 40 degrees, the van won't go over 40 mph till I stop on side of highway and turn the van off and on for thr van to operate normal.

Idk if this is a common thing for everyone else but that's how I am dealing with the van.

Only concern I have is the overheating problem and if anyone can shed any light as if I should have the van checked out by mercedes or just keep driving till it stops then fix it.

Thank you all
 

4wheeldog

2018 144" Tall Revel
Over time and miles, crap (Technical term) gets stuck between the radiator and the AC condenser. This cuts cooling airflow significantly, and is the first place I would look.
after that, I would check operation of the fan(s), whichever type are installed (Engine driven or electric). There are other possible causes for overheating, but those are the most basic, and are a good place to start.
 

mataei

Member
So
I drove from Tampa to Charlotte nc doing approximately 75 plus on i75 and i95 the whole way.. the temperature would go from 195 to 197 or 201 if I went to 80mph.

I came home and cleaned the ac condenser and it was dirty but it wasn't as bad as when I cleaned it at 200k or so.

I also got the xentry and checked for the throttle actuator and ran a test I ?think. And it gave me the values... idk what they mean and I hope someone can let me know if the throttle valve is bad.
 

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Dima74

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
P2119 is not an MB code for the CR60 control module... Use DAS to read the fault codes. If it turns out to be a code for the performance of the throttle valve, don't just simply test it under the option "Actuations" in DAS. Drive the van with your C6 and laptop hooked up to the van and monitor (Actual Values in DAS) what the throttle valve and EKAS does as you drive the van.
 

mataei

Member
P2119 is not an MB code for the CR60 control module... Use DAS to read the fault codes. If it turns out to be a code for the performance of the throttle valve, don't just simply test it under the option "Actuations" in DAS. Drive the van with your C6 and laptop hooked up to the van and monitor (Actual Values in DAS) what the throttle valve and EKAS does as you drive the van.
Just wondering what should I look for?
I'm about to head out and see what I can do with this info.
 

Dima74

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
My bad, I had so much to do after being away for so long from home.
Have you tried to teach in the the throttle valve? The codes in the picture above are stored codes, but if the problem persists after clearing the codes, change the throttle valve. A malfunctioning throttle valve does cause limp mode by switching the functioning of turbo actuator off and this type of limp mode does reset by cycling the key/ignition.
 

mataei

Member
Are there any directions to getting the throttle valve out?

I'm trying to wrap my head around it and starting to realize I have to take the fan out atleast.


I'm going to erase the code and see what happens.
 

Dima74

Independent & Self Reliant - From Chattanooga TN
You will have to remove the alternator. Disconnect the power from the battery itself... Remove/disconnect/unplug all the wires from the back side of the alternator... Loosen the belt and remove it only from the alternator pulley. Try to keep the belt routed and in place as much as possible... Remove the alternator after you remove the 4 bolts that hold it in its place... After the alternator is removed, remove the intercooler hose and that will give access to remove the throttle valve after you remove the 4 bolts/screws and disconnect/unplug the wire. Be careful with the throttle valve's plug, don't break it... It's a bit of a pain to unplug it.
 

mataei

Member
You will have to remove the alternator. Disconnect the power from the battery itself... Remove/disconnect/unplug all the wires from the back side of the alternator... Loosen the belt and remove it only from the alternator pulley. Try to keep the belt routed and in place as much as possible... Remove the alternator after you remove the 4 bolts that hold it in its place... After the alternator is removed, remove the intercooler hose and that will give access to remove the throttle valve after you remove the 4 bolts/screws and disconnect/unplug the wire. Be careful with the throttle valve's plug, don't break it... It's a bit of a pain to unplug it.
Holy...

Well thanks for the info, I hope it helps others. ?

So far I reset all the codes and drove about 30 miles and the code didn't come up. The only thing that did come up was a adblue heater element, and that's always been on ever since I bought thr van.

But I will drive it more once I get on the road and check if the code comes up again.

Thanks for the help.
 

Iamghost

New member
Hi All - and Matei - I just pulled my TB off for P2119 so here's the best I can offer in written form. I plan to make a video how-to when I have time to do so.

Among the 26 codes I had, 3 were for P2119, permanent, pending and stored. Then specifically I had P18AE00 and P18AF00 - one of those is the same range issue you noted and one is "stuck in open" position. I pulled mine thinking a good cleaning was in order but had no change in performance and the same codes came back immediately when I reinstalled. So now, I have a new TB to pick up and install tomorrow. Here's my advice on how to pull the TB - it's almost exactly as the manual tells you to.

You do have to remove the fan clutch and you'll need a special tool to do it. Universal tools didn't work for me so I figured I'd get my use out of it and $50 wasn't too bad. Here's the exact link for what I bought. (You mentioned driving to CLT - are you in NC or FL? I'm in NC and FCP usually is delivered within 2 days).

Okay - here we go:

You do NOT have to pull the alternator.

Make sure you have new gaskets (you're supposed to replace them, I did not) - you'll need 2 EGR gaskets, metal gasket for Mixing chamber to Intake Manifold and metal gasket for Throttle Body to Mixing chamber. Have your fan clutch tool ready, E10, E12, E14 sockets and a couple ratchets with a 3", 6" and 18" extension.

Manual says to drain 3 liters of coolant and pull the upper D/S hose off the radiator (I think the other end connects to thermostat - I forget). I did NOT pull this hose but it will be easier if you do.

Disconnect your battery.

Start with your fan clutch. First get the shroud loose - if you do not pull the radiator hose, the shroud cannot be fully removed but you can do this with the shroud loose but still in there, it's just a little harder.
My fan clutch was SUPER hard to get off even with the special tool, it's just very tight working space and also installed very tightly. First take out the two E10 bolts from the mixing chamber, about halfway up - one holds a hose from the fan clutch with a metal spade on the end and the other just holds a plastic retaining clip for the wire loom for the fan. With those two bolts out and the wire harness disconnected, the ring of the fan clutch will rotate and those will hang down out of the way. Then grab your special tool - you'll turn the wrench/fan clutch nut clockwise when facing the front of the van - this will loosen it while you're using the special tool to hold the pulley. As the fan is almost off, be sure to support the weight of it. Once the nut is all the way off, you can work the fan clutch out with the shroud loose. This gives you more space to work.

Next - get under the van on the P/S and find the piping coming from the intercooler to the throttle body - pull the locking ring to remove the hose from T/B. While you're down there - there are 2 E10 bolts that go through a metal bracket into the T/B assembly. They are aligned almost vertically, one above the other (if you think of 4 bolts in 4 corners with all bolt heads facing the passenger side - you are working on the rear 2 bolts, top and bottom).
You can reach the top bolt from the top of the engine reaching down. The bottom bolt can be reached from underneath. This is where the alternator gets in the way. It's hard to access the lower bolt because of the alternator BUT if you use a long extension (18") and the next size up socket (E12)- you can get on this bolt and break it loose and remove easily- it should not strip, it's not super tight torque. If you use the E10 socket, it will NOT fit because of the tight space with the alternator. Get those 2 bolts out first. You probably cannot reach the wire harnesses yet but if you can, disconnect them. There are 3 near/on the T/B.

Next - move to the EGR - 4 bolts that connect the elbow piping from EGR back to mixing chamber - with these 4 bolts out - don't drop the gaskets! - you can turn the elbow and remove. If it's too tight to remove, wait until you get the next few bolts out.

Next - look at the end of the "mixing chamber" (this is the metal air pipe that is bolted to the T/B and ultimately feeds into the intake manifold. I think it's called the mixing chamber because it's mixing air from the T/B with the gases from the EGR.

At the top end of the mixing chamber, you can see under the thermostat/hose connection where it bolts up to the intake manifold. There are 3 bolts here - think of an upside down triangle - you can see 2 bolts from the top (long bolt on P/S and shorter bolt on D/S and 1 bolt out of sight underneath but you can easily feel and reach it (same as the shorter bolt from the top)- use a 3" and 6" extension here as needed to reach these bolts around the radiator hose. Don't drop the metal gasket!

Next - double check you have disconnected all wire looms.

Next is a single, larger bolt (I think E14) that's kind of halfway up the mixing chamber and bolts into the block - pull this bolt and if you have all wiring disconnected, the T/B assembly (still bolted to mixing chamber) should be free.

With the fan shroud loose - you can work the T/B assembly up and out, be careful and go slow, it will come out with some maneuvering.

Once you have the T/B assembly out, there are a few more bolts that will come out of the T/B housing - these will remove the plastic housing on the intake side of the T/B (where the intercooler hose connects). Once that is off, you can access the last couple bolts that bolt the T/B to the mixing chamber (metal gasket here). Pull those bolts and the T/B will be totally separate.

I took some videos - if this is confusing, let me know what you want details for and I will send a video or photos/screenshots.

Hope this helps. I also dropped a bolt when re-installing...more than once....so I literally had to pull the T/B multiple times to get the bolt and re-install everything. So to pull and clean one time, I actually ended up pulling this apart 3 or 4 times... so I can probably answer any question about it at this point and literally just did it 3 days ago. Happy to help however I can. I'll be doing it all over tomorrow to install a new T/B.

PS - hopefully the new T/B gives me some power. The van is used and I only just bought it and haven't really driven it while I worked on stuff but the few miles I did, I heard no turbo and felt very slow. Seems I am in a limp mode due to failing T/B....
 

Iamghost

New member
Oh - and I agree with Dima74 - be VERY careful on the plug for the T/B itself. The tabs that lock it in place are super hard to get to and "operate" - I had one side snap off when trying to remove. The other side still works and locks it in place but it's a major pain.
 

Iamghost

New member
Depending on how urgently you need to do this - FYI - Rockauto.com has the best price I have found on an OE Bosch T/B at around $120 + shipping. FCP is next at around $150 which includes free shipping. Parts stores sell the same exact part for $220-$320.

If you can wait, I'd buy the CTA tool and T/B from FCP.
 

Iamghost

New member
Replaced the T/B today with a new OE Bosch unit. Cleared the old code and went for a drive. No light, no code, and much better performance. Replacing the unit resolved my issues with slow/low performance. Knowing this now, my advice to anyone with a code for the T/B is to replace it, the procedure to pull and reinstall is tedious. Don't make the same mistake I made - I pulled and cleaned and reinstalled then had to replace anyway. Just replace it for $150 and save yourself a couple hours of removing and reinstalling a second time.
 

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