Sieben 144 MB Sprinter Build Begins

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Sieben

New member
Hello,

I have begun our 2012 MB 144" Sprinter build. I started with the following:
1. Fixed Low Boost pressure and no turbo. It was seals and the turbo resonator leaking. Replaced the resonator and all the "O" rings on the resonator, cold air intake and the air box to the turbo intake. All codes went away. Out of Limp mode.

2. Changed the oil and filter plus the air filter. Basic.

3. The roof Leaks and there was rust on inner roof seams. Previously this was an AC work van with a roof rack. It was not sealed well.
A. First I removed all the plastic plugs. Wire wheeled off the rust both inside and outside of the van.
B. Treated the bare metal with Oso, Phosph. Acid. from HD. Brushed it fully on all the roof seams. Brushed it on the interior seams until saturated with 2-3 coats until it turned fully black. Wear safety glasses and a respirator.
C. Sprayed Rustoleum Professional primer on the interior where needed.
D. Brushed on grey industrial primer on interior where needed.
E. Brushed grey primer on roof holes where the plugs were removed. Both inside and outside. IMG_5243.jpg
F. The roof panel has separated from the roof ribs. The butyl black goo can be removed with mineral spirits. Below is the black goo removal. Lots of scraping with a 3/1 scraper. The black stuff is the butyl tape. Plus the plugs which I cut off with dikes from the bottomand scraped the remainder off the top.

IMG_5235.jpg

To clean the roof and ribs I used a 3" wide scraper soaked in Mineral Spirits. Worked well. As you can see I can push up the roof 1". This is happening on 3 roof ribs. My plan is to use Sikaflex 221 white adhesive caulk to reattach the roof to the ribs. I can see where the factory did one or two ribs as well as the side panels with this white adhesive caluk of some sort. I welcome any thoughts or other solutions.



IMG_5237.jpg

Well I'm just getting started. Not much to show.

John
 

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Sieben

New member
Update: I’ll be using two small fiberglass patches for the couple of minor holes on the roof. The holes are on opposite sides in the same spot at the weld seam and roof rail intersection. Holes are about 3/16” in diameter. So not large.
 

Sieben

New member
Update: I’ll be using two small fiberglass patches for the couple of minor holes on the roof. The holes are on opposite sides in the same spot at the weld seam and roof rail intersection. Holes are about 3/16” in diameter. So not too large.
04/06/21
So, I have ground down the tiny 2 holes and the crack. Going from top to bottom there is a 1/8" by 3/8" hole, then lower a pin hole, followed by a crack. At first I was going to JB Weld and was told that would not work. It would likely crack with movement. I do not have a welder. Hopefully , I will soon. Then I read about fiber glassing the holes which seals them as well as provides strength. As a boater I'm familiar with fiberglass. The holes were treated with Oso previously. This is prior to the Acetone wipe down, so there is some brown sanding dust, mostly from the sanding across the seam sealer shown in the middle.


Roof rust hole fiberglassed 1.jpg

1617760793271.png

So this 2012 used to be a AC work truck on both sides in the exact same spot the roof cracked and there were 2 wear holes. I'm thinking a latter rubbed these exact two spots wearing a hole through. The wear holes #1 and 2. and the crack #3 can be seen above if you look closely about 1/8" below my red line. So, onto the fiber glassing.

Below I first applied a coat of West System 505 to the top, then added in about 5-6 layer of fine fiberglass fine cloth. Fully saturating the cloth. Below the final repair. I'll put another coat of cloth and resin on, then fair it, fill, prime it and paint it. The roof is going to be covered with AC, Vents and Solar panels. So, not much will be seen. I used West System with the calibrated pumps and the slow hardener. You can get it online at Amazon as well as boat chandleries and supply houses. Also, TAP plastics if they are in your area.

Roof rust hole fiberglassed 2.jpg

In the below shot you can see hole #1, hole #2, and the crack is below the red line in #3.
Roof rust hole fiberglassed 3.JPG

Next step is to seal all the roof seams with Sikaflex 221 (UV resistant and paintable). And to reattach the roof ribs to the ceiling with Sikaflex 291 (I talked about this earlier). These are both one part polyurethane adhesive sealants.
 

Sieben

New member
04/06/21
So, I have ground down the tiny 2 holes and the crack. Going from top to bottom there is a 1/8" by 3/8" hole, then lower a pin hole, followed by a crack. At first I was going to JB Weld and was told that would not work. It would likely crack with movement. I do not have a welder. Hopefully , I will soon. Then I read about fiber glassing the holes which seals them as well as provides strength. As a boater I'm familiar with fiberglass. The holes were treated with Oso previously. This is prior to the Acetone wipe down, so there is some brown sanding dust, mostly from the sanding across the seam sealer shown in the middle.


View attachment 177409

View attachment 177413

So this 2012 used to be a AC work truck on both sides in the exact same spot the roof cracked and there were 2 wear holes. I'm thinking a latter rubbed these exact two spots wearing a hole through. The wear holes #1 and 2. and the crack #3 can be seen above if you look closely about 1/8" below my red line. So, onto the fiber glassing.

Below I first applied a coat of West System 505 to the top, then added in about 5-6 layer of fine fiberglass fine cloth. Fully saturating the cloth. Below the final repair. I'll put another coat of cloth and resin on, then fair it, fill, prime it and paint it. The roof is going to be covered with AC, Vents and Solar panels. So, not much will be seen. I used West System with the calibrated pumps and the slow hardener. You can get it online at Amazon as well as boat chandleries and supply houses. Also, TAP plastics if they are in your area.

View attachment 177410

In the below shot you can see hole #1, hole #2, and the crack is below the red line in #3.
View attachment 177411

Next step is to seal all the roof seams with Sikaflex 221 (UV resistant and paintable). And to reattach the roof ribs to the ceiling with Sikaflex 291 (I talked about this earlier). These are both one part polyurethane adhesive sealants.
 

Sieben

New member
Next is working out the equipment to eventually land on the roof.
Plan for the roof is the following:
A. Coleman Mack 10 AC unit most likely.
B. 450-500 wats of solar.
C. Dometic 9500 awning. 10'
D. Roof Fan Max Air vent.
E. Various antennas and GPS stuff. In between somewhere.
No roof rack.
1. I'm using 80/20 1575 T track for the rails. I have none. I will drill and tap them 1/4" x 20. bolt up from the bottom with large SS flat washers, lock washers and lock tight red.
2. For the cross bars and height lift to clear the roof I'll use 80/20 rails #15 series. L brackets and SS bolts lock washers etc.
3. All of the solar and the Dometic 9500 awning will be mounted to the 80/20 rails etc.
4. In the picture below the Dometic 9500 awning is attached to the passenger side roof rail and supported by the rails going across to the drivers side for the 10' awning.

Amazon below ordered 4 60" inch rails for the roof. So, 10' each side.

3. Use Sikaflex 221 to seal all the seams on the roof. Fair and sand smooth.
4. Primer and paint the roof.
5. I'll two overlapping 3/4" white byutal tape runs to bed the rails.
6. Using Sikaflex 221 at all the bolt holes to seal the bolt holes when installing.



8020 1575 series T slot.JPG

Below is the roof layout in blue. The scale is 2 = 2" roughly. The grey lines are the rails. + or - a bit. I see now that my drawing is off slightly because I had to move some stuff to fit the long skinny 14" x 58" solar panel next to the AC unit.

Sprinter roof equipment.JPG

If you have read this far possibly you have some pointers for me before I take a saw za to the roof. Measure 4 times and cut once as they say.
 

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RVBarry

Well-known member
Hi, take a look at @hein's mount adapters for the A/C and vent.
 

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