FVC Safari Rack - 2020 144 Passenger 4x4 with factory AC

Pharkas

Active member
I had a very similar issue with the FVC roof rail system - I contacted support and they sent me a whole new set of nuts - the new set were very different from the first - much better finish, rounded corners... almost like they had come from a totally different supplier. I sent them back a couple nuts at their request. I also have an Aluminess side ladder and found that one of the brackets overlapped a rack foot. I made an aluminum spacer out of 3/16" plate for the other bracket and mounted the ladder using the same hardware as the rack.

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That looks like a great solution to the foot overlap. In my case because I mounted the FVC feet with flat side out it would not have worked. I simply moved the foot to the front about 3 inches and drilled two 3/8" holes in the rack. I did that on both sides just to keep it symmetrical even though there is not a ladder obstruction on the other side. There is no excuse for an awesome rack in this price range to have t-nuts that need altered to work. It took me probably 5 minutes on my bench grinder to polish off the burs to make them slide past the black rack transitions, an easy fix at the manufacturer before shipping out.
 

walterfredo

New member
Hello- I mounted a FVCO side ladder this weekend and will be doing the Safari rack shortly. I noticed that the nuts that slide into the factory rack are not square, they were more rectangular. I couldn't get them to slide in with the wider side and had to use the other side to get them to slide in. Is this not the way they are supposed to go in? FVCO is seriously lacking in their instructions and videos for the installs.
 

w15p

2019 144 HR 4x4
Yes, the t-nuts have bad burs that prohibit them from sliding into the rails. A grinder is unfortunately required for installation.
or just be a squeaky wheel... sorry, but at this price, they can make the hardware fit the first time. I have a bench grinder - it's a simple fix, but it should not be necessary.
 

Pharkas

Active member
or just be a squeaky wheel... sorry, but at this price, they can make the hardware fit the first time. I have a bench grinder - it's a simple fix, but it should not be necessary.
100% agree. I actually tore my thumbnail away from the side of my thumb trying to force the 1st t-nut past the black transition. I was very angry to say the least when I had to climb back down the ladder with a bleeding paw and a bag full of faulty t-nuts. The guy on the installation video made it look so easy just sliding them effortlessly into the rail.
 

Pharkas

Active member
I had a very similar issue with the FVC roof rail system - I contacted support and they sent me a whole new set of nuts - the new set were very different from the first - much better finish, rounded corners... almost like they had come from a totally different supplier. I sent them back a couple nuts at their request. I also have an Aluminess side ladder and found that one of the brackets overlapped a rack foot. I made an aluminum spacer out of 3/16" plate for the other bracket and mounted the ladder using the same hardware as the rack.

View attachment 174615 View attachment 174616
Here is picture of my offset rack foot. You can see the original holes to the right in the picture and the bolts in the holes I drilled.
IMG_20210317_112104.jpg
 

Pharkas

Active member
So I finished adding the upper terrace over the AC unit. I framed the FVC cutout I made using 1 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum angle. I then cut a galvanized 1 3/8" chainlink fence pipe (10' lengths sold at Lowes) into 2 pieces. Each piece cut to fit in between the FVC top loop of the Safari rack. Also at Lowes I purchase 4 chainlink fence T-clamps. https://www.amazon.com/T-Clamp-Ps-1...ocphy=9005173&hvtargid=pla-569776740633&psc=1
I painted both the T-Clamps and the Galvanized pipe with Rustoleum bedliner paint. Once the paint dried on the T-clamps, I put a few lines of black silicone on the inside of the clamps that will mount to the FVC top loop. I allowed the silicone to cure. The fence pipe is 1/16" diameter larger than the FVC loop pipe. The silicone makes the transition between the two pipe sizes nice and tight when installing the T-clamps. I then mounted the framed cutout piece to the 2 galvanized pipes with 316 stainless bolts. I then lifted the cutout into place and mounted it to the Safari rack top loop rail using the 4 T-clamps. Now I have a matching upper terrace with L-track tie down points!
 

Pharkas

Active member
So how much height does this add to an already tall van? 1 1/4" It is hard to tell from the pictures, but the tallest part of the van after adding the FVC safari rack was still the AC unit. Without the cutout terrace the van height was unchanged. The terrace added another 1 1/4" above the AC . Trade-off for extra carrying sq footage as well as extra L-track tie down points.
 

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