Cleaning the engine bay and under the engine area - recommendation?

gilee

2006 Sprinter 2500 Camper
Temperature here will be warmer next week, high 50F, and I will be taking off the front bumper, headlights, and start replacing belts, water pump, and all fluids.
I also want want to clean up the engine, as it is leaking coolant at the water pump, with other stuff, very messy.

I won't pressure wash my engine bay, but thinking if I should use any de-greaser and spray on (by spots, not covering entire engine). Maybe the Purple power, then rinse with water hose (slowly).
  • You guys think using purple power ok?
  • Is it good idea to rinse with garden water hose? is it still too much psi?
Maybe can use something even less pressure, like a 1gallon garden sprayer. Mix purple power with water, then spray the entire bottom half of the engine/tranny, and places with oil/junks stuck in the engine bay. after 10-15mins, use the garden sprayer with pure water to rinse off. maybe use paper towel to wipe dry.

I never, ever clean my engine bay before, the only time I did was when I rebuilt my engine, and had the engine off my car, so I cleaned the engine bay.
Any suggestions are welcome! Thanks!!
 
B

billintomahawk

Guest
Use it on a warm engine if possible, follow the instructions, put the hose on fine spray.

For heavy accumulations use a scraper first, then a parts brush to apply.

IMHO,

bill
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
Pressure wash all the way just put something to try and block the alternator. Obviously don’t hammer the alternator with water. Have the engine warm and pre spray with degreaser as Bill suggested. Nice thing about diesels, there no ignition system to get wet :thumbup:
 
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220629

Well-known member
... Nice thing about diesels, there no ignition system to get wet :thumbup:
No high voltage ignition system to get wet. There are still many electronics involved to control ignition in a Sprinter.

There is more than one thread here where an owner created problems by using a pressure washer in the engine bay. Risk vs reward.

:2cents: vic
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
No high voltage ignition system to get wet. There are still many electronics involved to control ignition in a Sprinter.
such as? I pressure wash them all the time. The only issues I have is in the interior when the boys hit the shifter or the airbag with water. Shifter they killed one out of maybe 30 vans and the water will short the clockspring and have the horn blowing. The clockspring will dry out and recover.. I’m speaking of 647s btw and Of course common sense is to be used
 
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billintomahawk

Guest
Hey Gilee,
Sounds like you are trying to 'bullet proof' your van. Good idea IMHO.
If you pull off the headlights you will get access to the grounds behind them and more working room.
One thing I did was disconnect and dialectic grease every plugged connection I could reach in the engine bay.
Just seemed like a good idea to me.

I laugh at myself now when I look at the engine. At first I thought a monster lived under the hood. I couldn't figure out how fuel and air got into the engine. I didn't know what a code was. All my previous vehicles had been motorcycles or old cars and trucks.

The Sprinter has really been a trip.

bill
 

ECU

2006 T1n 118 Sprinter
I have a nice slope to park on so that all the water inside flows out the back.
 

220629

Well-known member
such as? ...

Another.
*****
The modus operanti is not to get water into the engine especially the inlet tract.

Water in any quantity and diesel engines don't go too well together, it can cause some spectacular mechanical failures if it locks the engine--suddenly.

On the 2.7 engine there isn't too much where you can wreak havoc especially if you keep the engine injector cover on, but as Eduardo has recommended cover the connector(s) with cling film.:thumbup:

One thing to avoid is power washing directly with the nozzle the radiator and A/C condenser matrix's, it bends the fins! That in turn reduces the cooling efficiency.

As a side ditty in hot dusty countries like Iraq the locals power wash their fleets of trucks and buses quit regularly. The basic reason is that the engines and transmissions get coated in dust which mixes with oil vapors and oil leakage over time. Once caked on, the whole morass can reach a flash point and the entire powerpack becomes a glowing mass of smoldering oily dust.

It gives rise to my oft used expression of "glowed in the dark" when some fool has driven an overheating engine to destruction!
Like don't let the smoke out!:lol:
p.s Use Dawn dish liquid on the radiator . A/C matrices before gently washing them down (Fairy Liquid darlings if in the UK):laughing:
Dennis

*****

Just had the same thing happen tonight. Suscribing. Light pressure wash and it would crank but not fire. Then nothing.

*****

Hi guys, just wondering if you found the problem with the not starting.
I just washed my engine bay, and guess what, no gear indicator light on dash, no crank.
Let us know how you ended up.
Thanks.

*****

I'm not searching further. There were more search hits.

vic
 

Kajtek1

2015 3500 X long limo RV
Been washing my engines with plain water for over 40 years just fine. When you do it regularly- plain water with good garden hose sprayer on warm engine is all it takes.
When you have accumulated gunk, water will remove oil residue from it, so later you can scrape it with screwdriver, or wire brush.
Did it on my 1922 Ford couple days ago. The technology has high ignition wires with fabric insulation on them and no spark plugs boots, so I avoided spraying on those, but other parts cleaned nicely.
 
I saw something about using a foam tire cleaner in the engine bay that looked easy enough and took a light spray of water and/or wiping it off after a few minutes of soaking in.

It might have been our own dear Bob who posted the video. The results looked like new. I plan to do the same one of these days. Thanks Bob.
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
Hey Gilee,
Sounds like you are trying to 'bullet proof' your van. Good idea IMHO.
If you pull off the headlights you will get access to the grounds behind them and more working room.
One thing I did was disconnect and dialectic grease every plugged connection I could reach in the engine bay.
Just seemed like a good idea to me.


bill
Headlight removal and turbo heat shield removal make it way easier if you really want to get her clean.


Another.
*****
The modus operanti is not to get water into the engine especially the inlet tract.

Water in any quantity and diesel engines don't go too well together, it can cause some spectacular mechanical failures if it locks the engine--suddenly.

On the 2.7 engine there isn't too much where you can wreak havoc especially if you keep the engine injector cover on, but as Eduardo has recommended cover the connector(s) with cling film.:thumbup:

One thing to avoid is power washing directly with the nozzle the radiator and A/C condenser matrix's, it bends the fins! That in turn reduces the cooling efficiency.


vic
If someone needs to tell you this, you shouldn't be washing your engine. Take it to a detail shop.
 

220629

Well-known member
...

If someone needs to tell you this, you shouldn't be washing your engine. Take it to a detail shop.
:idunno:

It's DIY types, and worse maybe clean freaks, that often ask the pressure wash question here. Detail shops do a great job if you're willing to shell out the money.

:cheers: vic
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
:idunno:

It's DIY types, and worse maybe clean freaks, that often ask the pressure wash question here. Detail shops do a great job if you're willing to shell out the money.

:cheers: vic
on a 647 I just don't see potential for damage. Sure if your dumb enough to power wash sensitive areas like say the MAF itself, turbo inlet, oil stick tube, alternator ETC than ya sure. Bending the fins on the cooling stack only takes 3 seconds with the pressure washer to learn not to do it :ROFLMAO: The potential for damaging/disabling a gas engine is way more risky. but that just seems like common sense to me. I do appreciate your DIYers input. Detail shop engine wash is much cheaper than a tow and sprinter shop diagnostics.
 

gilee

2006 Sprinter 2500 Camper
Thanks all and appreciated your opinions!
I did seen many people on youtube show how they uses pressure washer to clean their engine, but personally I don't feel comfortable... not even garden hose (maybe on isolated locations) Just personal preference, but appreciated to hear everyone's opinions.

So basically, you guys recommend using purple power in garden sprayer, Spray down Entire Engine?

I am working on GPs now... but asking for help in another new post as my #1 GP is broken...

I will clean, re-tighten all grounds now, and will do others things you guys suggested, I do like the "dialectic grease" idea!
Back to garage now. Thx all!
 

Kajtek1

2015 3500 X long limo RV
Headlight removal and turbo heat shield removal make it way easier if you really want to get her clean.


If someone needs to tell you this, you shouldn't be washing your engine. Take it to a detail shop.
As I said, been doing engines washings for over 40 years.
Don't use pressure washer. I have industrial grade PW, who can punch a hole in decking board with water alone. Imagine what it can do to radiator fins, or wire insulation.
On old cars - distributor cap was weak point and it would need to be wiped, or blown with air after washing.
Sometimes water would foul spark plugs, but older cars did not have all those sensors, so I would drive with dead cylinder for about 1/2 mile till engine heat dried the plug and made it working again.
I DIY work on my vehicles, so prefer them clean for easier troubleshooting and repairs.
Always get some thrills, when I see shops taking valve cover without removing 1/2 " of gunk from it. Some of that stuff has to make it inside engine sooner or later.
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
As I said, been doing engines washings for over 40 years.
Don't use pressure washer. I have industrial grade PW, who can punch a hole in decking board with water alone. Imagine what it can do to radiator fins, or wire insulation.
On old cars - distributor cap was weak point and it would need to be wiped, or blown with air after washing.
Sometimes water would foul spark plugs, but older cars did not have all those sensors, so I would drive with dead cylinder for about 1/2 mile till engine heat dried the plug and made it working again.
I DIY work on my vehicles, so prefer them clean for easier troubleshooting and repairs.
Always get some thrills, when I see shops taking valve cover without removing 1/2 " of gunk from it. Some of that stuff has to make it inside engine sooner or later.
I've been doing engine diagnostics and repairs for 35 years. Again, if someone doesn't know what they are doing as the OP has already stated then best not to do it. Yes pressure washers can do damage which is why common sense comes into play. If your dumb enough to run a washer with full pressure on engine wiring and sensitive components then you'll learn the hard way about common sense.

Gas engines we always covered the distributor cap with plastic which is also my method with the alternator on a 647. For example on a 642 I personally wouldn't wash above the cylinder covers and id be very selective about washing many areas of the 642 especially since the ECM is exposed. Again we are talking about a 647 which has to be the easiest engine to wash with the least potential for damage I've ever seen

Do you personally own a 647?
 
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