Roof penetrations

dgravlin

Member
I'm entering the home stretch (hopefully) of my van build (2019 170 4x4). I've already installed some rear facing Rigid pod lights onto my roof rack. The wiring goes through an existing pop out hole near the backup camera. The installation includes a cable gland for the wiring. Still remaining on the to do list is the wiring for some lights mounted onto the front of the roof rack, as well as wiring for a solar panel. I'm curious if others have tried to consolidate wires for multiple purposes into a single roof penetration and cable gland, or whether they just drill additional holes, with additional cable glands for each application? I've been unable to find a cable entry gland with a capacity of more than two cables, and I assume that bunching multiple cables through the same gland gasket will not seal completely unless you use some sealant.

Thanks!
 

chipsterguy

Active member
@dddrks, interesting product.

@JIB, I like your solution and ingenuity. I prefer your solution over the amazon product as I believe it is more robust to prevent water penetration. I use my van in the snow, and I would be concerned about any snow/ice buildup on the gasket of the Amazon solution shared by @dddrks .
 

forlexinotme

Active member
I considered using cable glands and have used these extensively on a sailboat I lived on at one time. They worked great, but they are not really a high grade product I was super confident in. I didn't want to skimp on something keeping water away from the sheet metal and my interior.

I had several wires I needed to run through the roof for lights, solar, coax, etc. I utilized a bulkhead cannon plug. These are military/aviation type plugs. Essentially the wires are cut where they go through the roof. You crimp the wires onto pins and these go into their respective sides of the connector. The side of the connector going through the roof has an o ring to seal it and a jamb nut on the back to retain it. I then added polysulfide sealant to be sure-sure it is water tight. The exterior side on top of the roof has a plug that screws down onto the bulkhead connector to make a watertight fit.

This style of connector comes in a variety of sizes for different numbers of conductors (1 - 72+ conductors), different gauges of wire, different materials (aluminum, stainless, cad plated steel, plastic), different backshells/strain reliefs, etc.

I do not have a picture of mine but I used a 20 odd place connector that accepted pins for wires from 22 awg through 12 awg. This connector also accepts 'pin in pin' contacts for use with coax. I have not yet added a cell booster, but when I do this 'pin in pin' will allow me to make a single connection to all devices on the roof.

Depending on size and material these connectors can cost hundreds. Cheap ebay knock offs are available. You will need a crimp tool. The cheap deutsch ones will work. Cruise ebay and you will find aviation mechanics selling old plugs or surplus plugs with contacts for a reasonable amount. ITT Cannon or Amphenol are great brands but pricey. The knock offs can be had under $20. Mouser and Digikey often have standard ones available. I got my set from a project at work where we didn't need them.

If you want the 'pin in pin' style for coax you are looking for one that will accept contact p/n M39029/76-424 or M39039/77-428. Compatible connectors are a pain in the butt to find, I will look for a part number if folks are interested. A quick search have these at $13 a pin, so probably not practical option. A cheaper option may be the old bulkhead bnc or tnc route and just stick to a knock off plug for the non-coax connections.

cannonplug.jpg

Not my photo, but an example of what i am talking about.

 

45Kevin

Well-known member
I added a small weatherproof box behind my fan. It's attached with two electrical pass throughs. Right now there are only two wires (solar) passing through it, but eventually I will add others, likely a cell booster and lighting.
Bingo.
Great idea to a problem I also have been contemplating.

I need to get a HAM antenna wire, cell booster antenna wire, satellite radio antenna as well as power for awning/lights.
 

Taylor Marine

Well-known member
I've installed countless (100+) ScanStrut and BlueSea Systems cable glands on boats... Never had a leak or issue. You can always get a horizontal gland for rooftop penetrations if your concerned about standing water or snow on it. The rubber "gland" part is Buna-N rubber... Quite impervious to the elements.. A dab of Silicone grease on the cables where they pass through even makes it more water proof.


It would be much cleaner looking than a die-cast metal project box plastered to the roof.
 

timmy527

Member
If you happen to have a Sirius XM radio, the antenna roof penetration is just behind the drivers seat. I opted to put a gland over the existing antenna hole and extend and relocate the antenna behind the solar panels. The solar wires and the XM cable fit perfectly in the 2 'ports' on the gland, and conveniently lives under the solar panels.
 

Attachments

w15p

2019 144 HR 4x4
If you happen to have a Sirius XM radio, the antenna roof penetration is just behind the drivers seat. I opted to put a gland over the existing antenna hole and extend and relocate the antenna behind the solar panels. The solar wires and the XM cable fit perfectly in the 2 'ports' on the gland, and conveniently lives under the solar panels.
Did you reattach the antenna to the van roof? I'd like to move mine to allow placing a solar panel in front of my front vent and was concerned that it might need the ground plane of the roof and/or a flat "radio reflective" surface.
 

timmy527

Member
I put the antenna in a outdoor plastic double gang box ( actually atop the filler panel for the box ) and used marine adhesive to glue it to the side of the solar panel facing up. The XM cable is just an extension ( 10 ft ? ) the connects to the original cable.
 

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