Lifted the rear of our van off the same points on the rear. Sounds like what is described here on the VC site https://www.vancompass.com/blogs/news/tagged/bottle-jackTire rotation today and the shop used floor jacks at 4 corners. The rears were lifted at the bottom of the rear shock mounts, which I questioned, and was met with a scornful “we do 10 sprinters a week” so, ... I deferred to their judgment, observed the process which they seemed to handle with care, and everything with the van’s jacking seemed stable to me.
does this sound like a kosher jack point to you all?
The shop used the same front locations as the VC article, but in the rear they used the bottom of the shock mount (I marked with a red arrow and circle) instead of the axle. If everyone thinks this is an acceptable point, I will probably buy some floor jacks and do this myself next time ...Lifted the rear of our van off the same points on the rear. Sounds like what is described here on the VC site https://www.vancompass.com/blogs/news/tagged/bottle-jack
The fairly light metal shock mounts would not be my choice. You might very well get away with using those points, but any side loading could cause them to distort/bend.... If everyone thinks this is an acceptable point, ...
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Will use your method in the future, thank you!The fairly light metal shock mounts would not be my choice. You might very well get away with using those points, but any side loading could cause them to distort/bend.
I would have no problem with using a floor jack cup cushioned with a piece of wood and jacking on the axle tube in the place shown for the blue OEM jack. Th grain of the wood block should be kept at a 90 degree angle to the axle tube so there is no danger of the wood cleaving. A 2 x 3, 2 x 4, 4 x 4, etc. block would be fine.
I know that MB cautions against using the axle tube to jack against.
Some factors which make it ok to use a floor jack in the position described.
1.) The jack is lifting only one wheel - positioned out near the end of the axle. (I would not jack the axle tube near the differential.)
2.) The wood block distributes the stress and prevents point loading on the axle tube.
3.) As described in the picture, just lift enough to clear the tire for changing.
vic
There would be no issues noticed while driving. If the mounts are bent, over time the improper stresses on the shocks might produce early leaking/failure of the shock seals.Will use your method in the future, thank you!
to my eyes, the shock mounts don’t look bent from the tire shop’s lift yesterday... if you don’t mind, what do you believe I should look out for while driving to see if any damage has occurred? Thanks again.
10-4, and I appreciate your input, Vic. Thank you as always.There would be no issues noticed while driving. If the mounts are bent, over time the improper stresses on the shocks might produce early leaking/failure of the shock seals.
Without seeing the truck at all I would still expect that you are fine. As I said, it would not be my choice, but as long as the metal brackets don't appear distorted there is likely no damage. Raising the axle/tire slightly would not induce much side loading.
As a reminder.
The above comments are my opinions without having even looked at the vehicle.
vic
There have been comments about needing to use a base to keep the OEM stable when used with the factory tire change lift points. If the OEM curved saddle tire changing jack is positioned out at the ends of an axle tube to just lift one wheel off the ground for tire changing there is absolutely no danger of damage to the axle tube. The OEM tire changing jack being used against the axle tube doesn't need anywhere close to full extension. Arguably it is more stable in that position vs extended to use the OEM tire change jack points.Interesting.....!
The photo with the jack under the axle tube, right under the spring perch shows the tire about an inch above the ground.
Hmmm..... I can use the same jack, under the MB approved/recommended jacking points further forward under the rear spring front clevis (where the lip is
curved specifically to fit the top of the 2 stage service jack) and achieve exactly the same result.
...
No. Perhaps a pro can get away with it, but the shock mounts are not strong laterally as they are vertically. If you jacking technique is a little off you can end up with a pretzel. The tire shop is in business to make money - tech time and stall through put vs insurance cost. If you mess the mount up you have bigger problems than they would rewelding a few tabs (unless you are a master welder).The rears were lifted at the bottom of the rear shock mounts ...
does this sound like a kosher jack point to you all?
This fits perfectly https://agileoffroad.com/product/agile-h1-scissor-jack-axle-frame-jack-adaptor/ – I use it with the H1 jack.Anyone know right off the rear axle diameter is of the Sprinter 3500? Mine is in winter storage so I can't readily get a measurement. I want an axle saddle or cradle adapter for a bottle jack (not for OEM jack). Anyone purchase one that fits properly? I want a reasonably close fit with a decent contact area so the load is spread out. I bought a quality USA made 8 ton jack from US Jack after finding little else that seemed to safely provide the lift needed for the Sprinter. Bottle Jack Buddy has a model they say fits up to 4" tubes and should fit my jack. Safe Jack has one that fits up to 5" axle but it will not fit my jack. The Safe Jack 6" axle version should fit my jack for about $100 - seems expensive and likely will not cradle the axle well due to size. Other adapters I am finding will not fit over the US Jack top lifting pad that is 1.5" diameter. Suggestions?
Thanks, interesting. I would not have considered a scissor jack for this application. Looks to have great lift height. I wonder if it would be suitable for the heavier 3500 Sprinter. But I have the OEM and US Jack bottle jacks which will not work with this adapter. Adapter dimensions show it is sized for a 3.5" diameter axle. I would have estimated that my 3500 dual wheel axle is a bit larger but I can't be sure until I have a chance to measure it or I find a spec.This fits perfectly.
What is your intention? Do you want to just lift against the axle tube out near the wheel, one wheel at a time for addressing a flat tire? If yes, there is no reason to match the jack to the axle tube radius. The axle tube isn't particularly weak. General cautions about using the axle tube for lifting are to avoid using lifting practices which would overstress the axle tube. Eg. - Jacking against the axle tube close to the differential.Anyone know right off the rear axle diameter is of the Sprinter 3500? Mine is in winter storage so I can't readily get a measurement. I want an axle saddle or cradle adapter for a bottle jack (not for OEM jack). Anyone purchase one that fits properly? I want a reasonably close fit with a decent contact area so the load is spread out. ... Suggestions?
Van Compass says the outer axle tube is best as well.DO NOT JACK AGAINST THE AXLE TUBE ANYWHERE BUT OUT NEAR THE WHEEL. JUST LIFT ONE WHEEL ONLY.
vic
I’ve seen the trailer hitch jacking method. Doesn’t seem like a great idea to me since the hitch is designed to take pulling force so to speak, as opposed to lifting force. Though some of everything is present when towing.Van Compass says the outer axle tube is best as well, but for a different reason. The axle tube under the rear leaf perch beause is reinforced (thicker?) according to them. It doesn't show from the outside. But if nothing else, the leverage is better near the wheel for sure.
What do folks think of jacking up the rear of the van by the trailer hitch mount? I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that's OK. Sure would be convenient.
I know what you mean. But that metal is really thick stuff.I’ve seen the trailer hitch jacking method. Doesn’t seem like a great idea to me since the hitch is designed to take pulling force so to speak, as opposed to lifting force. Though some of everything is present when towing.