Do I need to remove the turbo charger to replace the engine wiring harness

plarkin

Active member
Found craftsman set on Amazon - Craftsman 9-34570 External Torx Socket Set with1/4 and 3/8-Inch Drive, 7-Piece

Be here by end of week.
 
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manwithgun

Active member
Found craftsman set on Amazon - Craftsman 9-34570 External Torx Socket Set with1/4 and 3/8-Inch Drive, 7-Piece

Be here by end of week.
Lance, I may have steered you wrong. Looking at the current offerings from Craftsman, they NOW seem to be made in China. Not necessarily bad, but I can't vouch for it. My suggestion was based on my personal experience with the USA version which had great engagement. Hopefully someone else can step in with suggestions. In the meantime, soak it...?

EDIT: I also mislead you stating that the socket should fit flush with the flange. That's an exaggeration. But the difference will be noticeable when using a quality socket with closer tolerances and better materials.
 
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sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
Have you tried NAPA? They were able to special order me a 36mm wrench (weighing 3 lb! ) to remove the cooling fan when I had a serpentine belt problem in a tiny rural town. I was expecting a long wait, but it arrived the very next day- ahead of schedule.
 

plarkin

Active member
S2F - Giving it a spray daily till the new socket gets here at the end of the week. I thought Snap-On on sold to the trade, but I did see shop.snapon.com so ordered an E12 from them to compare with craftsman. The 1 Snap-On socket was just $2.34 less than the set of 7 from craftsman. Yes I visited NAPA today, E12 bolt felt firmer than it does with the Duralast I have, but I was looking for a socket that would touch the flange that MWG said his Craftsman does. Although MWG just updated that the flush with flange was a bit exaggerated. Might go back to NAPA tomorrow and pick up their E12 to compare with Snap-On and Craftsman.

MWM - just saw your update, may that explains the price difference I just noted with the Snap-On socket. Will not attempt to do anything till I have them both. to compare. I do NOT want to round another bolt on the turbocharger!! Now am I just looking to blame the tools for my mistake, maybe a bit, I let you know after I see the new sockets and get those 2 bolts out.
 

plarkin

Active member
As mentioned before but maybe misunderstood, the steel bracket can be cut as a last resort and the bolts removed on a bench once the turbo is free. The bracket costs $13.
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Thanks - I understand now - have to see how I could approach that from underneath since I have no visibility from above. Hoping for a good outcome with sockets and Power Blaster. Keep it in the back of my mind with dropping the transmission.
 

plarkin

Active member
S2F - looking through the thread and thinking about the heat from welding on the head of the bolt. How would you be able to get a socket on the bolt after welding the head? The way things have been going with getting the turbocharger off I would end up welding the bolt to the bracket.:bash:
 

manwithgun

Active member
MWG - Nothing to cut through here, the bolts go into the block. One problem is there is no room to get a breaker bar or cheater on the flex head socket wrench. I took another look from the bottom and there is no good angle to reach those bolts even through I can see them clearly.
It’s been a while, but I think that the bent 3/4” emt cheater bar is what I used to free the bracket bolts. Bent to clear the firewall. Sometimes you have to use a small adapter, extension, or deep socket to get the proper spacing and angle. 545C634F-24C8-4537-9C49-6CE6EF9B2364.png
 

plarkin

Active member
MWG - reading my mind - I was just looking at you picture of custom breaker bars. Totally missed the picture first time I read that post having in my mind dismissed anyway of getting a breaker bar in there. While waiting for sockets to arrive I am heading with my socket wrench to Home Depot to size up some tubing for a custom breaker bar. That will also allow me more room to ensure the socket is secure while a helper puts some light pressure on. When working with just the socket wrench in a confined area when putting pressure on I worry about the bolt breaking loose and then I break my fist.:yell:When using a breaker bar I noticed with the exhaust bolts on the Y collector the break is not sudden, but actually quite smooth and them I smile, sweet. 🙂 I ready to smile again. What is the best way to bend the tubing - maybe a trip across the street to Harbor Freight. As an electrician you probable have the pipe bending equipment.
 

manwithgun

Active member
MWG - reading my mind - I was just looking at you picture of custom breaker bars. Totally missed the picture first time I read that post having in my mind dismissed anyway of getting a breaker bar in there. . As an electrician you probable have the pipe bending equipment.
Yep, I have benders. And working with 3” and 4” conduit, I sometimes lose sight of the smaller trade sizes at first glance. It now looks more like 1” emt conduit that I bent for clearance. Maybe walk into Lowe’s and put a couple of kicks (bends) into a stick of conduit and only have to pay for what you walk out the door with?!? Trim to length once back at the project.

Might as well spray the other cut/stripped bolts while waiting since they will eventually need extracting. And the biggest time saver for backing out blind bolts is a powered ratchet, either pneumatic or battery powered. The 3/8 Milwaukee M12 line is great for this but there are many options. Also great for reassembly, but be absolutely certain that the threads are properly engaged by hand BEFORE putting any power on them. Do not cross-thread and do not apply final torque until all of the bolts have been started. Use anti-seize and patience and hope that one of the professionals adds advice, especially if I’m steering you wrong...
 

sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
S2F - looking through the thread and thinking about the heat from welding on the head of the bolt. How would you be able to get a socket on the bolt after welding the head? The way things have been going with getting the turbocharger off I would end up welding the bolt to the bracket.:bash:
Not sure as I don't know what you know in regards to your exact predicament. But sometimes walking through ideas that won't work helps generate ideas that will.

I just know welders get metal very hot very quickly in a targeted area, and heat can help break stuck fasteners free. A torch isn't always practical.
 

plarkin

Active member
Have breaker bar ready for the sockets when they arrive. Going to find something to test it on with my helper.

IMG_8316.JPG

Also was able to remove the decapitated bolt with my fingers:

IMG_8317.JPG
 

plarkin

Active member
While waiting for sockets I just removed the starter motor since Sprintguy said it will make my life easier when replacing the wiring harness. Tomorrow it is the Mixing chamber that comes out since that is required for wiring harness replacement - researching what that involves now.
 

plarkin

Active member
Need more tools - Counter Holder 906-589-00-40-0 to remove/install viscous fan clutch - also open end wrench but no size indicated - 36mm? Looks like it need to be low profile. Will call Mercedes in morning to check price and availability.
 

sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
Need more tools - Counter Holder 906-589-00-40-0 to remove/install viscous fan clutch - also open end wrench but no size indicated - 36mm? Looks like it need to be low profile. Will call Mercedes in morning to check price and availability.
Already own a 3 lb hammer? See my thread for one method to remove the viscous fan without that special counter holder tool:

You will still need a 36mm wrench though. I got mine from NAPA, as mentioned above, for $30.

(in my case, the serp belt had already jumped off.. you may have a slightly easier time)
 

manwithgun

Active member
Where I live, most of the large chain auto parts stores (AutoZone, O'Reillys) have the fan wrench as a free loaner tool. 36mm. REVERSE THREAD, meaning that when standing at the bumper facing the engine, turn wrench CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE.
 

plarkin

Active member
NAPA here rents out a kit. I wanted to get the 36mm wrench and it will be there tomorrow. Get to pull some more stuff apart :D. The sockets will not arrive till Monday, so no turbocharger off till then, so tomorrow off comes the air throttle after the fan assembly is out. Then the wiring can come out up to the turbo charger with lot of pictures for installing the new one.
Putting together list of parts, mostly bolts and gaskets, replacement EGR crossover pipe and possible the Y exhaust collector to the turbo if I damaged it cutting that bolt off. Replacing exhaust clamp by flex tube. Fortunately the exhaust gas pressure differential connections did not break when removed, but they were really tight!
 

plarkin

Active member
The Craftsman sockets arrived early this afternoon - absolute crap, nothing like the picture on Amazon, which looked like MWG's craftsman sockets - they are going back. Much later the Snap-On E12 only sockets I ordered arrived. OMG what a difference. MWG - the socket was a fraction off being flush with the flange on the bolt. Used the universal joint socket attached to a 24" 3/8" extension, with another 9" 3/8" extension, a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter and then a 1/2" breaker bar 17" long. I did not attempt to use my custom breaker bar because over the weekend while crawling under van to do the daily soaking with PB I realized that I had almost a straight shot at the 2 bolts from behind the transmission, and the universal joint socket was the trick needed to get the socket sit squarely on the bolt. Attempted the one that was least damaged on the top from my original attempts to remove them. With the length of the extension bars the breaker bar was twisting them. I did this several times and would hold the tension as long as I could. The last time I did it something snapped and I was off the bolt with the socket. I assume I had let it slip off, but when repositioning the socket on the bolt I realized it was loose and I took it out with my hand turning the extensions. Next bolt had a little rounding, but the socket went over it snuggly and I proceeded to break it loose. I am a believer in the quality of Snap-On tools now, and will be buying more!! So the turbo charger is finally out. In looking at the collateral damage from cutting one bolt off the Y exhaust collector I see that I cut right through the cast iron, so the Y collector needs to be replaced. This will not happen again with my Snap-On tool kit!! Took the EGR cooler off this morning and am now figuring out the vagueness of the WIS instructions for removing the mixing chamber. Getting my order in for all the parts I need tomorrow so I can start replacing this wiring harness and get this van back on the road.
 

plarkin

Active member
Shoutout to Spirit2Freedom for the Snap-On tool recommendation, Dennis at Linden Engineering for encouragement and advice, Manwithgun for support and help when I was struggling. It ain't over yet, but feeling good about progress today.

Parts list getting long since I am doing PM while I have the Fan and shroud out, so some belts and bullies, and a thermostat and water pump. Easy to do now with everything out.

While I wait for parts I will be chasing the threads, at lot of them to chase.
 

sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
Glad to find out that you were successful!

In a great majority of cases you can get by with consumer quality crap, but in certain situations expensive tools are well worth the extra cost. The trick is knowing which situations and which tools.
 

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