Replace 100W Flex with Renogy

[taleksun]

Easy: simply run the new panels over the old ones. You will find that you can screw the new mounting brackets to one side of the existing panel and the other side through the existing panel and into the roof. You can also build a foot using those brackets and stick them to the roof using VHB (very high bond tape). When upgraded my Unity to Renogy I ran them over the top and did not worry about putting new screw holes in the roof. Use the existing cables to connect.

You're going to get a ton of help on batteries and all other stuff but to keep it simple stay on your path of simplicity! If/when you start to wander off that path? Oh my!

Here's a photo of the bracket I built. 3/8" aluminum and stainless steel hardware:

View attachment 167960

Hi Kelly, thank you for sharing your project knowledge.

We have a 2022 Unity RL on order and are planning to do the solar install ourselves.
I have some questions regarding the foot mount for solar panel mounting bracket you fabricated.
I see the thickness is 3/8”, what are the other dimensions, length and width?
Also how did you attached the bolts to foot mount?
Are your mounts holding up?
Are there changes you would make?

Thanks again for sharing your project knowledge.

Tom

 

[SSTraveler]

Here is a thread specifically focused on the solar installation for Unity RLs that has a lot of good information, https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/96802/. I used the same method as Klipstr for my 400w solar installation but used 1/4" thick 4" x 6" aluminum plates for my mounts, but I'll never use it again. There is a lot of experience using just VHB tape and Dicor on Solar mounts, with many years of use backing it, particularly by AMSolar, where the predominant installation method for solar mounting is simply to use 5952 VHB tape on the Renogy Z Mounts, stick them to the roof and cover the entire foot with Dicor. I used this AMSolar recommended method with their tilt mounts and it couldn't have been easier. From my experience once you stick something down with the VHB tape it isn't going anywhere, then adding the extra adhesion and sealing power of Dicor, it's there for life. If you have ever tried removing anything that used VHB, Dicor or Eternabond Tape you'll know these things are incredibly hard to remove. If you search on this forum you'll hear all about the struggles to remove it. You'll also get lots of first hand experience on using VHB tape on solar mounts. I've attached a guide that is based on my installation and the one I did on a 2021 Unity RL, I hope these are helpful.

 

[Klipstr]

Taleksun,

You are welcome...

I've used a couple of different sizes and have decided that 2"x4" is adequate. They have held up well. I have not had any of them lose contact with the roof nor do they show and wear around the edges. As I just recently added more panels I took the time while I was climbing around up there to test each and every panel foot by pulling up on the panel corners. Nothing loose. That's after three years and almost 35K miles of travel.

I mounted the standard Renogy mounts to the aluminum plates using these:

M6 Stainless Steel Phillips Flat Head Countersunk Machine Screws A2 18-8 DIN 965 | eBay

Serrated Hex Flange Lock Nuts DIN 6923, A2 Stainless Steel - M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 | eBay

I countersunk the holes to accommodate the head. Then used double-sided 3M VHB between the plate and the roof.

I ordered the aluminum pieces from this guy by asking him for a custom order number for the number I needed at the size I needed. He has a bit of everything but it's simply easier to send him a message asking for what you want. Four per panel. Pick your size...

6061dude on eBay

SSTraveler's method works too and is simpler. But I hate Dicor! I manage to get that crap everywhere whenever I use it!

 

[taleksun]

Here is a thread specifically focused on the solar installation for Unity RLs that has a lot of good information, https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/96802/. I used the same method as Klipstr for my 400w solar installation but used 1/4" thick 4" x 6" aluminum plates for my mounts, but I'll never use it again. There is a lot of experience using just VHB tape and Dicor on Solar mounts, with many years of use backing it, particularly by AMSolar, where the predominant installation method for solar mounting is simply to use 5952 VHB tape on the Renogy Z Mounts, stick them to the roof and cover the entire foot with Dicor. I used this AMSolar recommended method with their tilt mounts and it couldn't have been easier. From my experience once you stick something down with the VHB tape it isn't going anywhere, then adding the extra adhesion and sealing power of Dicor, it's there for life. If you have ever tried removing anything that used VHB, Dicor or Eternabond Tape you'll know these things are incredibly hard to remove. If you search on this forum you'll hear all about the struggles to remove it. You'll also get lots of first hand experience on using VHB tape on solar mounts. I've attached a guide that is based on my installation and the one I did on a 2021 Unity RL, I hope these are helpful.
View attachment 189057View attachment 189060

Hi SSTraveler, thank you for your quick response.

I have been reading a lot of what you have posted here and on Facebook.

Thank you for sharing your LTV and project knowledge, it is excellent.

I have saved many of your posted pdf’s to help me complete my upgrades / projects.

I hope I can tap into some of your knowledge as we get closer to our LTV being built.

Tom

 

[taleksun]

Taleksun,

You are welcome...

I've used a couple of different sizes and have decided that 2"x4" is adequate. They have held up well. I have not had any of them lose contact with the roof nor do they show and wear around the edges. As I just recently added more panels I took the time while I was climbing around up there to test each and every panel foot by pulling up on the panel corners. Nothing loose. That's after three years and almost 35K miles of travel.

I mounted the standard Renogy mounts to the aluminum plates using these:

M6 Stainless Steel Phillips Flat Head Countersunk Machine Screws A2 18-8 DIN 965 | eBay

Serrated Hex Flange Lock Nuts DIN 6923, A2 Stainless Steel - M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 | eBay

I countersunk the holes to accommodate the head. Then used double-sided 3M VHB between the plate and the roof.

I ordered the aluminum pieces from this guy by asking him for a custom order number for the number I needed at the size I needed. He has a bit of everything but it's simply easier to send him a message asking for what you want. Four per panel. Pick your size...

6061dude on eBay

SSTraveler's method works too and is simpler. But I hate Dicor! I manage to get that crap everywhere whenever I use it!

Thank you for your response. Did you use and bonding agent on the screws to the plates?

 

[EnerGT]

Smart move taleksun. You are very wise to make friends with Professor SST

 

[Klipstr]

Thank you for your response. Did you use and bonding agent on the screws to the plates?

No, I didn't. Just tightened them down good. The VHB touches them. I have had to remove the nut to tape a panel loose once and was able to get things snugged back the way I want them. I have used lock washers rather than the nuts I posted. Either way. I'm telling you: these things are going nowhere!

 

[SSTraveler]

Thank you for your response. Did you use and bonding agent on the screws to the plates?

I didn't use anything to hole my flat tapered head machine screw to the mounting plate either. I used a my Dewalt cutting tool, similar to a Dremel tool, to cut a slot in the top of the machine screw so I could use a flat blade screw driver to hold it while I tightened the Renogy Z brakes to the aluminum plate with a nut. I just used a lock washer and nut to hold my Z brackets down. I check mine once a year and they show no signs of ever moving.

 

[taleksun]

No, I didn't. Just tightened them down good. The VHB touches them. I have had to remove the nut to tape a panel loose once and was able to get things snugged back the way I want them. I have used lock washers rather than the nuts I posted. Either way. I'm telling you: these things are going nowhere!

Thanks Kelly, my wife is always saying I over think things!

 

[taleksun]

I didn't use anything to hole my flat tapered head machine screw to the mounting plate either. I used a my Dewalt cutting tool, similar to a Dremel tool, to cut a slot in the top of the machine screw so I could use a flat blade screw driver to hold it while I tightened the Renogy Z brakes to the aluminum plate with a nut. I just used a lock washer and nut to hold my Z brackets down. I check mine once a year and they show no signs of ever moving.

Thanks SSTravler, I will add your suggestion to my build.

 

[Roninmonk]

Hi All- as always- many thanks to Klipster and SS on all the amazing thoughts.

I had a thought as I am adding 400W to my 2017 Unity MB replacing the flex panels.

Is there any reason you folks can think of that reversing the Renology z mounts then adding a 3"x4" aluminum mounting plate would not work? It makes for a smaller roof top footprint and a little cleaner look?

Would love any thoughts!

 

[SSTraveler]

No I really can't think of a reason why not. My only thought would be if you ever need to remove the panels for any reason it may be a little more of a PITA, but not impossible. To each his own I always say. There is always more than one way to do anything.

 

[not logged in]

Also, it would be very difficult be able to apply pressure directly to the top of the mounts to bond the VHB tape. But applying pressure to the panels themselves should be sufficient. And with mounts underneath the panels it would more of a hassle to cover the mounts in Dicor (if you were thinking of using it).

You might consider foregoing the mounting plates—you don’t really need the additional surface area, and you won’t be able to conveniently remove the panels (which is a key benefit of the added plates in the standard position).