DAD users group discussion thread

cincigp

Member
Thanks guys. It is definitely sounding the the resonator. There is oil all over it underneath, and the symptoms are exactly like yours calbiker. I would think if it were the boost pressure regulator arm it would happen more often and less predictably. So far it has gone into LHM about 6 times in the 1000 miles I have had it. All have been on the highway and most have been right after I let off the throttle as I crest a hill. I suspect the decrease in throttle position at relatively high RPM is over pressurizing the TR, and causing it to leak, which the computer is not expecting, and therefore thinks that something is wrong and shuts the turbo down. I think I have enough evidence to go ahead and replace the TR now. It still seems like usually when it fails it is catastrophic and not intermittent like mine. I never appreciated how many sensors were on these things to check for stuff like this until I started playing with the DAD. Its unbelieveable all the stuff you can see.

Thanks guys and sorry for the semi-threadjack.
 
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JamesM

Member
Just got DAD working on 2006 with 30,000 miles and determined two fault codes in ESP module:
C 141D "left front sensor" and C 145D "right front sensor". Both were listed as active. I was unable to find these either through search or in my Complete Sprinter Fault Code Guide. No known driving or braking issues exist. Any help would be appreciated. I removed, cleaned and reset wheel speed sensors in hubs as a start. Clue?-- I had alignment checked about six weeks ago. Everything was ok but the steering wheel was very slightly re centered by tech. I saw where Dr A said this may require some sort of adaptation with a DRB III.
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Just got DAD working on 2006 with 30,000 miles and determined two fault codes in ESP module:
C 141D "left front sensor" and C 145D "right front sensor". Both were listed as active. I was unable to find these either through search or in my Complete Sprinter Fault Code Guide. No known driving or braking issues exist. Any help would be appreciated.
I have never seen these particular ESP codes before so I consulted with the books author. Here's his reply:

"C145D & C141D? I have never seen these codes in a Sprinter. The format is wrong for this version of ESP for Sprinter, but the codes are valid for a Mercedes V-class from around 2003-04. The ESP control unit is different for a V-Class, so the descriptions aren’t relevant for Sprinter. It must be a hiccup in communication (timing, power fluctuation, etc.), and the only partial databytes were read by the DAD program and the V-Class fault code database file was used."

Since you have no symptoms erase these codes and see if they return. Doktor A
 

dxbaxelg

New member
Greetings All - I am brabd new to the forum and still learning how to post... Forgive my errors. Thanks to Andy for the DAD machine. We live 200-miles from the nearest dealership and the DAD has really helped to sort out some problems.

I am dealing with essentially the same issue as TeamTexas is describing. Can anyone comment on what the fix was for this "...running with my anchor out" problem? I am heading for fuel filter issues at this point.

THX

Well it kinda feels like I'm running with my anchor out. So I plugged Dad in tonight to see what, if any codes I may have. on the CDI this is the list that popped up.

P1400
P0203 Cyl 3 Injector
P0300 Misfire detected
P0316
P0412
P1802
P00A2
P7312
P0214
P6014

I have an 03 sprinter and I know some of these are always present. I logged and erased the codes. Then did another check. All the codes came back as well as
P60C7
P0114

The thing I don't understand is none of the codes are active. They all show up in black. Any ideas of what I should be concerned with?

Dan
 
Gentlemen it works!!

WOW sometimes I am that dumb! So my new DAD works but only after about a month of trial and error (self inflicted).

I did a quick test last night found multiple codes I cleared and retested but only one keeps returning P 1482 it says in my New 210 page Sprinter book that this is Glow output related and it might be D4 isnt communicating with ECU or perhaps it's a wiring thing. Should I be worried first off what the heck is D4 and A80 ! Oh I do have an autostarter so could it be a problem? I don't use the starter in the summer but in the winter when I use it the starter turns on the glow plugs for 30 seconds before turning it over.. problem?

DAD works as advertised I think this thing seriously rocks! If you can swing the dough it's definitely the way to go.

One more thing can I run the DAD off an inverter? My buddies scan tool gives very explicit instructions saying no to this.
 

WAYNERODD

Member
Gentlemen it works!!

WOW sometimes I am that dumb! So my new DAD works but only after about a month of trial and error (self inflicted).

I did a quick test last night found multiple codes I cleared and retested but only one keeps returning P 1482 it says in my New 210 page Sprinter book that this is Glow output related and it might be D4 isnt communicating with ECU or perhaps it's a wiring thing. Should I be worried first off what the heck is D4 and A80 ! Oh I do have an autostarter so could it be a problem? I don't use the starter in the summer but in the winter when I use it the starter turns on the glow plugs for 30 seconds before turning it over.. problem?

DAD works as advertised I think this thing seriously rocks! If you can swing the dough it's definitely the way to go.

One more thing can I run the DAD off an inverter? My buddies scan tool gives very explicit instructions saying no to this.
I would not even try to run my DAD off an inverter. Some battery chargers may even be able to damage DAD. DAD's user manual also recommends against it.

Not knowing how your auto starter is wired it's hard to say if it's causing your fault. It maybe bypassing the cpu to turn on the glowplugs.

I have to agree DAD is a very great tool. Got me out of several jams.
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
I would not even try to run my DAD off an inverter. Some battery chargers may even be able to damage DAD. DAD's user manual also recommends against it.

Not knowing how your auto starter is wired it's hard to say if it's causing your fault. It maybe bypassing the cpu to turn on the glowplugs.

I have to agree DAD is a very great tool. Got me out of several jams.
The DAD's multiplex cable is powered by the Sprinter's battery via the Data Link Connector.

If you are asking about an inverter to power the laptop, then consult the laptop's owners manual.

Laptops typically require a clean AC source such as a pure sine wave inverter. Doktor A
 

shortshort

Dis member
This is not my area of expertise, but from experience and reading, the issue with square wave inverters relates to desktop computers utilizing AC current directly. A laptop is almost invariably going to charge it's battery or power up on DC current off a transformer. In seven years of charging and running laptops in a vehicle I've never had one care about my cheap inverters.
 

maxextz

Rollin Rollin Rollin.....
this couldn't of happened in the good old days before computers ruled the world and what you drive.
this started when i replaced the heater control lights with larger higher wattage bulbs.the old ones went out and i took the unit apart to replace them but looking at how your supposed to remove them you would need to have the hands of a baby:thumbdown:.

so i soldered new bigger ones onto the pcb track and it worked fine but they got a bit too hot so i took the back out.
maybe i will replace the whole unit as the clear plastic piece that reflects the original light bulbs was damaged and cant be replaced.

after putting everything back together for the night the next day the abs asr and anti skid lights are on:thinking:.so i turn off the engine and start up again and they are still on.

so no abs for me.my friend says ive upset the ecu and it needs to be cleared so he plugged in his snap-on diagnostic tool and we can see various components including abs but cant change any settings.it also shows no errors.

i don't want to have to go to mb and pay them 150 euro when i can buy one of those "dad" tools.

is this problem possible can changing to higher wattage bulbs"from 2watt to 5watt" upset the ecu and cause the loss of abs?

noting else was done to the van that night so any ideas people.can dad fix this?

max.................:wtf:
 

Hoppingmad

Member
Max
I don't know whats on the board, but unless you did something terrible with the soldering iron, I wouldn't suspect it.
I've replaced bulbs in my ford, and enjoyed the extra briightness. But it was "built ford tough" LOL
And ford parts are cheaper anyhow
 

WAYNERODD

Member
Max, I have know idea about what happened. But my question is could you have disconnected the ARS switch by accident when you removed the heater controls. It might be worth checking, but I don't know if that would cause the error you are seeing. Wayne
 

mendonsy

Member
This is not my area of expertise, but from experience and reading, the issue with square wave inverters relates to desktop computers utilizing AC current directly. A laptop is almost invariably going to charge it's battery or power up on DC current off a transformer. In seven years of charging and running laptops in a vehicle I've never had one care about my cheap inverters.
Most laptops don't care because the battery acts as a giant filter to get rid of the BAD stuff. The problem with "pure sinewave" inverters is that they can damage some laptop power supplies because the output high voltage peaks and high frequencies which most switching power supplies don't like.
I would skip the inverter (12V dc to 120V ac) and get a laptop converter. This one has worked well for me. You select the output voltage between 16 and 20V.

Cal





http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-12V-16-18-19-20V-Power-Adapter-Laptop-/350357709559?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item5192f262f7
This is probably the best solution if you have that option. Most laptop manufacturers have one available for their specific requirements.
 

mondmn70

New member
I posted this in DAD discussion thread as well since I am trying to get the EGR actuator tests to work.

Experienced no boost pressure by scan gauge (15 psi) after driving 2005 (30,000 total miles) for about 30 minutes at 55 mph after starting up a small hill. Stopped, turned the key off then restarted and did not have another problem after 4 hours at speeds up to 70 mph and had boost pressures up to 32-34 psi. DAD indicated P2359 (charge pressure control) as the only DTC. Checked turbo resonator, and turbo hoses and clamps without finding any problem but did not expect to find anything since if it was a simple pressure leak I would have expected the no-boost condition to reoccur during the subsequent four hour drive.

WAYNERODD suggested it might be EGR value so I ran the EGR actuator test in the Spection Functions menu for the OM647 engine. The first time I ran the test, the DAD increased the RPM from about 700 to about 1500 for about 30 seconds, then back down to idle. The dialog box indicated the test was still running and the blue line at the top of the box continued to show data collection but after 10 minutes in this mode I canceled the test as the time seemed excessive. Re-ran the test and again the DAD increased the RPM from 700 to 1500 for about 30 seconds, then the dialogue box indicated data collecting. After about 3-4 minutes in this mode the RPM increased again to about 1500 for about 30 seconds, then back to idle without any change in information in the dialogue box. Continued the test with data being collected but after additional 10 minutes in the data collecting mode I canceled the test again as the time seemed excessive for running a test.

Any insight into running the EGR test or other items to check on the P2359 code?

Mike
 

shortshort

Dis member
I just went through this. When mine set the charge pressure control code it acted like that. Fine for a while then fell on it's face. It stated as a pinhole leak in the upper air hose. I even squeezed the thing looking for splits and could not find it. Good luck.
 

seans

Member
I would skip the inverter (12V dc to 120V ac) and get a laptop converter. This one has worked well for me. You select the output voltage between 16 and 20V.

Cal





http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-12V-16-18-19-20V-Power-Adapter-Laptop-/350357709559?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item5192f262f7
One reason to do this is that it is probably more efficient than using both an inverter and a laptop power supply. This converts DC to DC and avoids the additional inefficiencies of going from DC to AC and back to DC.

This would be a good purchase for someone who would run a laptop off a house battery for an extended period and is concerned about power.

However, if you have a large laptop, you might find that they don't make an converter that can sufficiently power your laptop (as I did.)

Also, I would not hesitate using a cheap inverter to occasionally power a DAD laptop. After all, most cheap uninterruptible power supplies designed for computers employ modified sine wave inverters!

Over the years I have had three MSW inverters fail on me, purchased from Target or Best Buy. If you get a cheap MSW inverter, don't expect it to last too long. Also get one that is rated 2 to 3 times the wattage demanded of the laptop power supply, otherwise it may shut down when it gets too hot. You also may find that the inverter shuts down because of the voltage drop though the cigarette lighter wiring when the van is not running. Finally, if you ever plan to power AV equipment off your modified sine wave inverter, expect the harmonics from the 120V square wave it produces to be audible in the sound from your TV/DVD or component sound system. Also don't expect a MSW inverter to provide sufficiently clean power for an uninterruptible power supply.

I actually am using three inverters in the van at the moment - a 2000W PSW inverter charger, that charges the bank and is tasked to invert only when powering a microwave oven; a 300W PSW inverter for AV, computer stuff, and most everything else, and a 1550W MSW inverter that powers a dorm fridge (granted, this is grossly inefficient compared to Dan Bertko's 12VDC fridges, but works well enough for road trips and half day outings when I can plug in after parking and is much more efficient that the 2KW PSW inverter.) All of these are powered from the same battery bank. This bank is usually disconnected from the vehicle charging system unless the engine is running and I know that the bank is not so discharged that it might draw too much current from the alternator.
 

dieselfuel

New member
Can DAD check the operation status of the turbo actuator and can DAD cycle the turbo vane to see if it's operating properly?

TIA,

df
 

abittenbinder

Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Can DAD check the operation status of the turbo actuator and can DAD cycle the turbo vane to see if it's operating properly?df
DAD has an a 647 turbo vane actuator test under the special functions menu.

This allows you to incrementally operate the vane control in 5% increments and observe the corresponding movement of the linkage. Doktor A
 

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