One of my burners quit working on the cook stove
- Thread starter Grouser
- Start date
Don't know specifically abut that stove, but in general, a "failure-to-light" situation can be caused by a clogged orifice -- assuming the valve is allowing gas through when you open it. Propane first enters a distribution tube, then each burner has its own orifice, controlled by that burner's knob, to allow gas to "squirt" into the burner -- note air gap; this is where air is mixed in with the propane.
I recently had to go through that on my garage heater. I used a small pick and an inspection mirror to gently clear the hole. All good now.
But be careful! Be sure your space (inside the camper) is well vented when playing with this stuff. If you're not confident you can handle it, call a propane tech.
Here's what my garage hater looked like:
I recently had to go through that on my garage heater. I used a small pick and an inspection mirror to gently clear the hole. All good now.
But be careful! Be sure your space (inside the camper) is well vented when playing with this stuff. If you're not confident you can handle it, call a propane tech.
Here's what my garage hater looked like:
dieseldriver2003
Member
I had similar issue. It turned out it was much simpler than what I originally though. First, remove the black cover held onto the bottom part by small screws. Remove the bottom silver part which likely is clogged.
Not sure... but I'd start by removing that (what looks to be) 1/8" pipe that goes from the valve to the bottom of the burner, then carefully open burner valve to see if you can determine if gas is coming out of that. (Please don't use a match to see in there, ha-ha....) Those are probably flare connections, but maybe compression fittings.
Next, check that tube you removed for any restriction: can you blow through it? As far as the orifice, I'm guessing that's either in that tube you removed, in the brass fitting that goes into the base of the burner, or inside the base of the burner assembly itself.
Needless to say, when you go to put everything back together, please use a soap solution on all connections to ensure they're gas-tight.
Sorry I can't be of more help! Please post pics as you go --
Next, check that tube you removed for any restriction: can you blow through it? As far as the orifice, I'm guessing that's either in that tube you removed, in the brass fitting that goes into the base of the burner, or inside the base of the burner assembly itself.
Needless to say, when you go to put everything back together, please use a soap solution on all connections to ensure they're gas-tight.
Sorry I can't be of more help! Please post pics as you go --
Last edited:
dieseldriver2003
Member
Top of the burner. Top black cover is held on by a tiny philips screws. Remove those and the disc comes off. Then there's the bottom part, you can just lifted it off then clean it. Any gunk in the tiny hole will block the flow of propane and when it does, pilot will not be able to light the burner.
dieseldriver2003
Member
When I get a chance, I will take some pictures and post them here. Just got back from NYC boondocking for over 2 months and now back in AZ again. So just readjusting right now which is the reason I am so lazy.
dieseldriver2003
Member
Here's a photo I took this morning. Mine is a Dometic model. First remove the black ring by rotating it. Then remove the two philips screws circled in red. Remove black plate. Silver metal piece is then can be removed (circled in blue) which is not fastened to anything once the top plate is removed. If orifice is clogged, probably a good idea to leave it in warm water over night to release them. If you have a high pressure air gun, you can use that to force release anything that may still be in the channel. Reassemble, then try lighting it. Good luck!
Attachments
dieseldriver2003
Member
Sorry, I mean that grill around the burner.
Grouser
Live free,,, or die fighting for it,,,, no2 woke
, mines in a 2006 Roadtrek. And I went to an auto parts store to find the correct Torx driver they only went down to T10. So I found a set on Amazon T2 through T9. Hopefully one of them will fit. And thanks for reminding me what they were called, I guess star-shaped isn't really very technical. Haha will update this post when I find something thanks gentlemen.
Grouser
Live free,,, or die fighting for it,,,, no2 woke
Updating to announce a successful home repair. Got the right tools to unscrew the Torx screw on the top of the burner. Took it off and it was full of grease and yuck. Used my cutting torch tip cleaner carefully in the orifice. Works like a charm thank you gentlemen happy travels
dieseldriver2003
Member
I had the same issue just last week. I pulled the orifice with a 7mm socket and soaked it in vinegar then cleaned it with my OA orifice cleaners also, it is important for people to know that you never force anything into the orifice like a needle that could distort it. (if you don't have access to orifice cleaners or orifice drills I recommend snipping a wire or two from a wire brush, preferably a brass one) If you clean it without removing it it would be good to let the propane run while you are cleaning it so the debris does not fall into the supply tube. I ended up removing my cooktop and taking the tube apart, blowing it out. I also ordered new grommets for the grates as mine were worn causing rattles while driving. The original installation was horrible, the screws on the hold down brackets were too short and the installers just cranked them down till they bent and all 4 retaining clips just popped out so the only thing holding the CT in place was the double sided foam, and even that was done poorly and only part of it was actually stuck to the countertop. To replace I first applied Scotch double stick tape to the underside of the cooktop, then stuck the non sticky side of some 1/2" x 3/16" foam to the Scotch, peeled the backing off the foam and set it in place. Then I got longer SS screws and fixed the hold down brackets into place and put a dab of silicone on each one to prevent them from turning and popping off in the future. A dry fit first, marking the edges with blue tape on the counter top, will assure you get it centered when you drop it into place because once you do it ain't moving. I finally have a rattle free galley.
Attachments
Thanks for the updates and the pics!! When we get ours back I'll take a look in there.
One possible suggestion: while working on an aircraft engine's fuel system, I got a tip from an old-timer for cleaning brass parts. Hoppe's #9 Gun Cleaning Solvent! Just put the brass part in and let it soak overnight (may require longer, depending). Difference was amazing, with NO scrubbing.
.
These were three (formerly) really black, nasty primer nozzles from a 1956 (750 hrs SMOH) Lycoming O-320. Check how they came out after soaking!
One possible suggestion: while working on an aircraft engine's fuel system, I got a tip from an old-timer for cleaning brass parts. Hoppe's #9 Gun Cleaning Solvent! Just put the brass part in and let it soak overnight (may require longer, depending). Difference was amazing, with NO scrubbing.
.These were three (formerly) really black, nasty primer nozzles from a 1956 (750 hrs SMOH) Lycoming O-320. Check how they came out after soaking!