Oil for High Mileage Engine

NomadJeep

New member
My Sprinter has 240k miles on it and I am still using Mobil 1 0w-40 oil. A local tech was telling me I should switch to a thicker oil for such a high mileage engine. Just wondering if you all had any thoughts.

I have to make an appointment at the dealer, being I have been seeing some oil in the intake hose. At the clip where the hose meets the intake, and then the box where the hose goes below the battery is all wet, and oily.... so who knows....
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
I can't disagree with Sikwan. Many people use and recommend Mobile 1 0w - 40 European Formula that meets the Mercedes specs.

FWIW. I personally recently changed to using Shell Rotella T 5W - 40 full synthetic (blue container) mostly because of price and availability. About $21.00/gallon @ Walmart. My decision was based upon the MB 228.31 spec shown on the label, price, and what I read in searches about the product. We've hit some single digit Fahrenheit temperatures and the engine still seems to spin well. I guess only time will tell whether my decision is a good one.

rosn-1gal-5w40-z7.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T

Hope this does some good. AP/vic
 

Hoppingmad

New member
Its not in my walmart today!
I put it in my goldwing. My goldwing forum says it doesn't have the friction modifiers mobil1 has and doesn't cause problems with wet clutches. Seems to work, but I don't drag race with the wing, and really give the slippage a test.

228.31 that OK for my brothers 08 ncv3 or shall we continue looking for m1 formula m 229.51 for less then $9.00
He's been using a local chrysler dealer (non sprinter) who charges him $120 w filter. We suspect he's not using the right stuff at that price.
 

talkinghorse43

Active member
My Sprinter has 240k miles on it and I am still using Mobil 1 0w-40 oil. A local tech was telling me I should switch to a thicker oil for such a high mileage engine. Just wondering if you all had any thoughts.

I have to make an appointment at the dealer, being I have been seeing some oil in the intake hose. At the clip where the hose meets the intake, and then the box where the hose goes below the battery is all wet, and oily.... so who knows....
My '02 only has 194k and I'm still running 0w40. I recently installed an oil pressure gauge anticipating oil pressure might start to drop in the future and I could then change based on real data. Right now (daytime temps in the low 30s), the gauge shows 80-90 psig (probably the relief valve setting) when cold and is about equal to the indicated speed when in 5th gear and warm (ie, 70 indicated is 70 psig). At idle, pressure is 26 psig. Seems to me 0w40 is still ideal for my '02. I wouldn't be able to make an informed decision on changing oil grade without some sort of data showing loss of pressure.

My '02 is still using <1/2 qt in 15k miles, but if yours is using excessively (1100/qt is max), then you could be due to change grade.

Concerning the apparent oil leaks, it's perfectly normal to have oil in the charge air piping. Trace the intake piping and you'll see the engine breather dumps into the turbo inlet. I too had a drip at the clip and replaced the O-ring there. Sounds like you may need to tighten the clamps securing the charge air hoses at the IAT & boost pressure sensor fixture.
 
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KL2BE

New member
My Sprinter has 240k miles on it and I am still using Mobil 1 0w-40 oil. A local tech was telling me I should switch to a thicker oil for such a high mileage engine. Just wondering if you all had any thoughts.

..
Your "tech" is more full of myths than knowledge.
If you really want to dig into this go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ :thumbup:.
In any event, it may be hard to find a straight 40 or 50 weight that meets MB specs. As to a 5w-40 versus a 0w-40 they should hold the same viscosity at full operating temp of 190F. It's only at start-up that the 0w-40 will be lower viscosity than the 5w-40 and then only a tad.
If you need a straight 50 weight oil to maintain oil-pressure, you need a rebuild.
 
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mackconsult

New member
I am going to look for this stuff for now on. If I can get it for $21 a gallon I can commonize on it for the sprinter, TDI passat, and even my XR600R motorcycle. Got to love that :bounce:.

I can't disagree with Sikwan. Many people use and recommend Mobile 1 0w - 40 European Formula that meets the Mercedes specs.

FWIW. I personally recently changed to using Shell Rotella T 5W - 40 full synthetic (blue container) mostly because of price and availability. About $21.00/gallon @ Walmart. My decision was based upon the MB 228.31 spec shown on the label, price, and what I read in searches about the product. We've hit some single digit Fahrenheit temperatures and the engine still seems to spin well. I guess only time will tell whether my decision is a good one.

View attachment 20155

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T

Hope this does some good. AP/vic
 

Mike Horton

New member
Over the road truckers almost exclusively use Rotella . My independent Sprinter repair guy swears by it.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
....

228.31 that OK for my brothers 08 ncv3 or shall we continue looking for m1 formula m 229.51 for less then $9.00
....
I believe I read that MB 229.31 is OK for the 2007 NCV3 OM642 engine, but not for 2008 and newer because they need ESP low ash formula? I own a T1N so.... you should verify if maybe you can use it by using the forum search. Perhaps there's a break point early year in 2008 models?? Oil has been discussed at length here. AP/vic
 

rvdriverca

New member
:2cents:Aqua puttana wrote--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
____________________
I can't disagree with Sikwan. Many people use and recommend Mobile 1 0w - 40 European Formula that meets the Mercedes specs.

FWIW. I personally recently changed to using Shell Rotella T 5W - 40 full synthetic (blue container) mostly because of price and availability. About $21.00/gallon @ Walmart. My decision was based upon the MB 228.31 spec shown on the label, price, and what I read in searches about the product. We've hit some single digit Fahrenheit temperatures and the engine still seems to spin well. I guess only time will tell whether my decision is a good one.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I did the same, change to Shell rotella T 5W - 40, But now I'm not so sure it's the right thing because The book spec is 228.31 BUT the spec shown on the jug of Shell rotella T 5W- 40 oil is 228.3 the 1 is missing. Somebody smarter than me could give us the answer.:2cents::bash: regards.
 

stp57

Member
My 2006 has 90K miles & I have Blackstone analyze my Rotella T (non- synthetic) every 10K before I do my oil change & they tell that I can hold off till 12K. This last time I sent my sample in over 11K & now they say that my oil will be good till 15K. I don't see the reasoning for expensive synthetic oil with the mileage that I get out of dino oil?
Steve
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
....

I did the same, change to Shell rotella T 5W - 40, But now I'm not so sure it's the right thing because The book spec is 228.31 BUT the spec shown on the jug of Shell rotella T 5W- 40 oil is 228.3 the 1 is missing. Somebody smarter than me could give us the answer.:2cents::bash: regards.
You don't say what year you have. It'd be helpful if you included that info in your signature.

I'm not necessarily smarter than you. Is your oil in a white jug (dino) or blue (full synthetic)?

From my notes:
"As I understand it (please correct me if you disagree) '03-'06 North American 2.7 liter Sprinter Turbo-Diesels can use MB 229.3, 229.5, 228.3 or 228.5. NOT 229.1"

Nobody ever disagreed.

I have also read that the 228.31 and 229.51 (which are newer standards) are compatible with the NAFTA 2.7L diesel engine. I couldn't find the source in my notes. Hope this helps. AP/vic

Stp57,
I use Shell Rotella T 5w-40 full synthetic because the only dino Rotella T I've found common in our area is 15w-40 which is too heavy for our cold winter temperatures. Other than that, I have found no reasons that Shell Rotella T dino is not a good choice. AP/vic
 

Ciprian

Spark Plugs not allowed!
My 2006 has 90K miles & I have Blackstone analyze my Rotella T (non- synthetic) every 10K before I do my oil change & they tell that I can hold off till 12K. This last time I sent my sample in over 11K & now they say that my oil will be good till 15K. I don't see the reasoning for expensive synthetic oil with the mileage that I get out of dino oil?
Steve
I've got over 300k on my 2004 on dyno oil. I use one of the following, depending on sales I can find, all MB approved. Mobil Delvac 15w40, Shell Rotella T 15w40, Chevron Delo 15w40.
I also sent a few oil samples to Blackstone and every time they told me that the oil is still good to more and more miles. I used to change it at 10k, then I increased it gradually to 15k. And my engine is wearing less than the average Blackstone has analyzed.
Why would I use more expensive oil when my engine is very happy on cheap, good dyno oil.
 

Hoppingmad

New member
I've heard about these oil tests,
Blackstone send a kit or we just put it in an old pepsi bottle and mail it
May have to search for blackstone, at least I can mail him a sample. DrA wants us to bring the whole vehicle.
Maybe I can find a reason to go thru Penn, and something the wife would like to see nearby.
 

famof8

Famof8 + 1 = Famof9!
I hope I am not damned for posting this, but I found this article from September's issue of Trailer Life magazine to be a wealth of knowledge.

Oil’s Well
Everything you need to know about motor oil is on the label … if you know how to read it

by Chris Hemer
Trailer Life, September 2009

We’ve all looked at a container of oil at one time or another and wondered what everything on its label meant, or even if the oil we’re using is the best grade for the job. But by the time you get home from the auto-parts store, your mind is probably focused on more important things, and you don’t think about it again until it’s time for another oil change. But motor oil is an interesting, sometimes complex subject that deserves your attention — and if what you’ve wanted is someone to break it down for you in laymen’s terms, this story is for you.

Read The Label
Just about everything you need to know about oil is on the American Petroleum Institute (API) “donut” on the back of the bottle — that is, if you know how to decipher its meanings. At the top, you’ll see the words “API Service,” followed by two or more letters. Designations beginning with the letter S (such as SM, SL, SJ) are service categories designed for gasoline-burning, or S for spark ignition, engines. Those beginning with C (such as CJ-4, CI-4, CH-4 and CG-4) are commercial categories designed for diesel, or C for compression ignition, applications. See the sidebar on page 40 for an explanation of these codes.

In the center of the donut are the numbers that will most likely concern you; these numbers indicate the viscosity grade of the oil. Put simply, viscosity is a measure of an oil’s thickness typically expressed in numbered grades ranging from 5 (thinnest) to 50 (thickest). Established by the Society of Automotive Engineers, (SAE) an oil’s viscosity was originally a single grade, or “straight weight,” but that changed when the SAE added winter grade-designations, indicated by a “W” after the viscosity grade (i.e. 10W). Engineers realized that the existing grade specification did not adequately identify the cold-weather characteristics of a particular oil; depending on what region the crude came from (the United States or Persian Gulf, for example), two oils with the same grade could exhibit very different viscosities.

The evolution of motor oil took another big step a short time later, when advances in petrochemical engineering led to the development of viscosity enhancers that made it possible for a single oil to serve double duty in both low and high temperatures. These became known as “multigrade” oils, and are the ones we are familiar with today. These oils from brands such as Royal Purple, Shell Rotella T, Amsoil and Chevron flow a like lower-viscosity oil to make it possible for oil to flow easily to critical engine components in freezing temperatures, but then protect like a heavier weight oil at the SAE-specified 210° F. Hence the oils we’re all familiar with: 10W-30, 10W-40, etc.

Today’s engines are assembled with greater precision and have tighter tolerances than the engines of yesteryear, which is why 5W-30 is the most common automotive oil grade for gasoline engines, 15W-40 for diesels. Typically, it is recommended that you stick with the oil grade recommended by the manufacturer, but this is not always the case. Bear in mind that the manufacturer’s recommendation is based on a new or as-new engine operated in a typical environment; a high-mileage engine, or one operated in extreme heat or cold may be better suited to a different oil grade. Moreover, oils have a temperature operating range, so if you’re in a jam and need to add a quart or two of oil to your engine, but your grade isn’t available, you’ll be fine to select a different grade. For example, the API cites 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50 as being suitable for passenger cars operated at temperatures no lower than 32° F.

Oils designated for gasoline-burning passenger cars and light trucks will have “Energy Conserving” displayed at the bottom of the donut, indicating that the oil has been formulated to conserve fuel. For diesel applications, you will find the CI-4 PLUS designation. Used in conjunction with API CI-4 and CJ-4, the CI-4 PLUS designation identifies oils formulated to provide a higher level of protection against soot-related viscosity increase and loss in diesel engines. Elsewhere on the label, you may find reference to “ILSAC,” which means that the oil meets the current engine protection and fuel-economy standards of the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee, a joint effort of U.S. and Japanese automobile manufacturers.

Synthetic Oils
Though synthetic oils were introduced to the mainstream consumer market decades ago, there still exists an abundance of uncertainty, misinformation and outright falsehoods on the subject. First off, synthetic oil isn’t really synthetic — it still uses a petroleum “base stock,” which is transformed using a process known as organic synthesis.

When oil is pumped out of the ground, it has hydrocarbon chain links of all sizes, which create two issues. One, the chains have gaps which allow oxidation and breakdown to occur. Two, the lighter molecules will eventually boil off, leaving the heavier molecules behind. This not only changes the viscosity of the oil, it also leads to sludge and varnish build-up.

When the petroleum-oil base stock undergoes organic synthesis, however, uniform molecular structure is achieved, and a “perfect” oil is created. This offers a number of benefits, including greater film strength (for better wear protection), a lower pour point (for easier pumping in cold weather) and greater lubricity, which can result in reduced operating temperature, improved fuel economy and more power. And as we mentioned earlier, synthetic oils are less volatile and therefore not prone to “boil off” like traditional petroleum-based oils are.

It is a commonly held belief that synthetic oils should not be used in a new engine, but many high-performance vehicles such as the Corvette and Viper come from the factory filled with synthetic oil, as do many European imports. There has also been some concern that synthetic oils can cause oil leaks in older engines, as the higher detergent qualities of synthetic can wash away varnish that keeps gaskets sealed. This can, in fact, take place — but it depends largely on the engine, its mileage and overall condition.

Change Intervals
Oil-change intervals have historically been another topic of debate, but realistically, how often you change your oil has a lot to do with the age of your vehicle and the way you drive (mostly city, or mostly highway). Years ago, presiding engine technologies mandated that oil be changed around every 3,000 miles or so, but that’s not the case today. Recall that most engines from the mid 1980s and earlier had less-evolved fuel and ignition systems, so the oil got dirtier and/or contaminated more quickly.

Today’s engines can often go 7,000-10,000 miles before a change is needed, again, depending on how the vehicle is driven (see your owner’s manual for the recommended change interval). Proof of this can be found in the oil life systems used by some newer vehicles. These systems assess exactly when the oil should be changed based on climate conditions and how you have used the vehicle. General Motors estimates that its vehicles’ systems allow its customers to go from five oil changes a year to only two or three. From a cost standpoint the 3,000-mile oil change interval is still a lot cheaper than an engine rebuild, and it certainly won’t harm anything.

Synthetic oils, such as those offered by Amsoil, Bardahl and Shell Rotella T, can go even longer between oil changes, because they don’t break down and become sludgy. In fact, some synthetic motor oils have a recommended change interval of 25,000 miles or one year; you simply replace the filter after six months, and top it off with more oil. But a change eventually becomes necessary because, although the oil itself doesn’t break down, its detergents and additives eventually will. If in doubt, you can always send out a sample of your engine’s oil for analysis to determine its condition. Several synthetic oil companies offer this service, as do many other companies you can find on the Internet by typing in the words, “engine-oil analysis” in your search engine.

If you omit the technical details of refining and testing, understanding today’s engine oils isn’t difficult. Use the recommended oil for your application, keep the fill level up and change it when necessary, and motor oil will serve you (and your engine) well for many years to come.

End of article

Copied from Trailer Life Magazine - September 2009
 
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cahaak

New member
For folks who are located in the upper Midwest and might be interested in trying the Rotella T6, I just wanted to let you know that it is stocked at Menards stores. Currently, with the 15% off everything that you can fit into the green bag sale (through 1-10), you can get the T6 for $18.10 / gallon, which is the best price that I have seen this oil at.

Certainly for some folks it may not make sense to go to an oil like this, but given the low temps that we see up here (and are currently seeing), its really nice to have an oil with a lower viscosity at these cold temps.

Chris
 

Ciprian

Spark Plugs not allowed!
I've heard about these oil tests,
Blackstone send a kit or we just put it in an old pepsi bottle and mail it
May have to search for blackstone, at least I can mail him a sample. DrA wants us to bring the whole vehicle.
Maybe I can find a reason to go thru Penn, and something the wife would like to see nearby.
Blackstone sends you free kits.
Check it out here.
 

mackconsult

New member
Last night I walked my oil aisle at walmart. What about this oil? I am debating about whether its worth using a synthetic in my sprinter van, especially because I am using WVO and depending on blackstone sampling to tell me what my change interval will become.

One benefit of using this oil is that it would be common to my TDI passat, and XR600R motorcycle.

Currently using Delo 15-40 in my sprinter, at about $11/gallon. Switching to syn would make it twice as expensive in the van.

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html
 

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