Kim_Marcus
Kim Possible
Thanks for posting all the work you did. It helps.
Monafly build
- Thread starter Monafly
- Start date
Back to the build story.
Here's what I did for the rear interior walls and ceiling.
Base wall structure is Coroplast. It's basically corrugated plastic. I liked using it as it's somewhat flexible, yet resilient. Rot resistant and provides a small extra layer of insulation (dead air space). It also comes in large sizes (4x10, 5x8, 5x10) and various thicknesses. I used 4mm for the walls and 10mm for the ceiling. After fitting the sheets for the window cutouts and other 'features' the sheets were covered with fabric. I found a local cheap source of upholstery fabric for the walls and used JoAnne's foam backed automotive headliner for the ceiling. Fabric was attached with 3M 90 spray adhesive.
The lower rear wall sections actually used the slightly modified original panels (mine started out as a cargo van), as they are similar material to the Coroplast.
This is the backside with fabric wrapped around. Here's the finished front side.
Attachment was by capture behind the L-track that runs horizontally along my walls vertically at the front and back, and various Rivnuts with finishing washers in the middle. Also the rear window trim ring holds it. I think it all came together quite nicely.
Here's what I did for the rear interior walls and ceiling.
Base wall structure is Coroplast. It's basically corrugated plastic. I liked using it as it's somewhat flexible, yet resilient. Rot resistant and provides a small extra layer of insulation (dead air space). It also comes in large sizes (4x10, 5x8, 5x10) and various thicknesses. I used 4mm for the walls and 10mm for the ceiling. After fitting the sheets for the window cutouts and other 'features' the sheets were covered with fabric. I found a local cheap source of upholstery fabric for the walls and used JoAnne's foam backed automotive headliner for the ceiling. Fabric was attached with 3M 90 spray adhesive.
The lower rear wall sections actually used the slightly modified original panels (mine started out as a cargo van), as they are similar material to the Coroplast.
This is the backside with fabric wrapped around. Here's the finished front side.
Attachment was by capture behind the L-track that runs horizontally along my walls vertically at the front and back, and various Rivnuts with finishing washers in the middle. Also the rear window trim ring holds it. I think it all came together quite nicely.
Here's a shot of one of the ceiling panels. I will have to go take some more detailed shots to show installation, lighting etc. since I apperantly haven't taken any of that part of the build. The large hole is for the Max Air fan and all the stuff on the right side is to clear the courtesy light by the slider, which remains functional, and fit against the wall. Ceiling panels are held in place by L-track running along every other ceiling rib, with the same finish washers along the other ceiling rib. Lights were also installed in the ceiling.
Since I don't have pictures of the ceiling, here's what I did with the cab area. After pulling the headliner out, I installed sound dampening and insulation throughout. I attached some netting for holding small items (gloves, hats, etc.) and also all of the window shades.
We find them quite handy for light items.
We find them quite handy for light items.
Here's some detail of the upper cabinet that's been installed.
I fabricated it out of 3/4" square light weight Al tubing. with 1/2" birch plywood bottom and dividers. The back is formed from 4mm Coroplast that is just attached with 3M UHB tape. With such short spans, it worked great.
The frame is bolted to the wall along the bottom, at the top back to the wall and at the front to the ceiling ribs.
The open shelf shown on the right above, is actually on the left when installed and ultimately was rounded on the front and had a lip put on it so that small items, glasses, water, flashlight etc. would be in easy reach from the bed. Again-I'll take and post better pictures at some point.
Here's the finished install. With the door safety latches.
I fabricated it out of 3/4" square light weight Al tubing. with 1/2" birch plywood bottom and dividers. The back is formed from 4mm Coroplast that is just attached with 3M UHB tape. With such short spans, it worked great.
The frame is bolted to the wall along the bottom, at the top back to the wall and at the front to the ceiling ribs.
The open shelf shown on the right above, is actually on the left when installed and ultimately was rounded on the front and had a lip put on it so that small items, glasses, water, flashlight etc. would be in easy reach from the bed. Again-I'll take and post better pictures at some point.
Here's the finished install. With the door safety latches.
Here's some additional shots of the ceiling and the upper cabinet shown above.
And here's a couple of shots of the ceiling and lighting. All the small puck lights are on dimmers.
You can also see how the ceiling panels all fit. They are held in place with under the L-track and with additional bolts/finish washers into the intermediate ribs.
One thing that I would do differently if done again, I would NOT leave factory the wiring covers in place. I'd remove them, maybe not the ones on the rear pillar, but certainly along the side. I'd zip tie or do something to secure all those wires and then do a small piece of ceiling or wall covering to cover that area. I thought it would be easy to take the factory covers off and get to the wiring, but it's not easy to get those covers back into place.
Eventually I'll do something to finish off the corner of the passenger B pillar.
Under the upper cabinet, is where the ceiling dimmers are located along with another LED light for the stove and work area.
Provides plenty of light.
And here's a couple of shots of the ceiling and lighting. All the small puck lights are on dimmers.
You can also see how the ceiling panels all fit. They are held in place with under the L-track and with additional bolts/finish washers into the intermediate ribs.
One thing that I would do differently if done again, I would NOT leave factory the wiring covers in place. I'd remove them, maybe not the ones on the rear pillar, but certainly along the side. I'd zip tie or do something to secure all those wires and then do a small piece of ceiling or wall covering to cover that area. I thought it would be easy to take the factory covers off and get to the wiring, but it's not easy to get those covers back into place.
Eventually I'll do something to finish off the corner of the passenger B pillar.
Under the upper cabinet, is where the ceiling dimmers are located along with another LED light for the stove and work area.
Provides plenty of light.
Here's one of the other unique installations that I've done. I haven't seen anyone else do a table like this, but for the two of us that are typically in the van it's been super convenient. As anyone with a 144 knows, space is at a premium and we figured out that putting the table here checked all the boxes. It's very easy to put up and take down. It's very functional for eating, playing cards, reading etc. Why have the swivel seats if they can't be fully used.
Table is mounted in three places. Two dash mounts and then the leg that is secured into the L-track in the floor.
Here are the dash mounts.
The two brass studs are mounted into an Al block that I installed into the structure within the dash. Unfortunately I was unable to find a suitable metal structure within the dash, but did find a substantial bunch of plastic structure there to mount into.
The circled bolt is where the brass studs mount. As can be seen in the earlier shot, the studs come out between two of the plastic trim pieces.
The table has two connectors that connect to these brass studs. The connectors are furniture cams similar to these:
With a knurled knob to tighten and loosen them.
Table is mounted in three places. Two dash mounts and then the leg that is secured into the L-track in the floor.
Here are the dash mounts.
The two brass studs are mounted into an Al block that I installed into the structure within the dash. Unfortunately I was unable to find a suitable metal structure within the dash, but did find a substantial bunch of plastic structure there to mount into.
The circled bolt is where the brass studs mount. As can be seen in the earlier shot, the studs come out between two of the plastic trim pieces.
The table has two connectors that connect to these brass studs. The connectors are furniture cams similar to these:
With a knurled knob to tighten and loosen them.
Here are a couple of more shots of the table. Front, back and installed with the lights I put in the headliner. When not installed it currently fits behind the driver seat.
When I redo the main cabinets (currently just a temporary mock up) I'll provide a bit more clearance for access to the drivers seat. It's easy on the passenger side, but tight on the drivers.
When I redo the main cabinets (currently just a temporary mock up) I'll provide a bit more clearance for access to the drivers seat. It's easy on the passenger side, but tight on the drivers.
Haven't been back to the Racetrack since doing up the interior. It was deafening as a bare cargo van. Looking forward to that real soon now. I've biked down Lippencott and would consider taking it down. The real question is whether the dunes further N and soft sand would be passable. I'd not like to try to drive it back UP Lippencott (I've only got 2wd).
robthehungrymonkey
Member
Hey Monafly, just stumbled across your build. I'm also re-using the factory floor, but mine isn't quite as nice as yours.
How did you mount the L track you used to cover the joins and finish the edges of the floor?
Was it just screwed in to the floor? I've thought about it, but was hesitant to drill through the floor to mount it as I've basically already done most of it.
The L-track in the middle of the floor was secured with Riv-nuts. I had some L-track that I scrounged from a wrecked Sprinter that has a different profile (much deeper with a box design. I don't have a picture of that to share.) so that I could attach it directly to the floor. The floor was routed out so that it is level with the floor surface. I put small wood 'rails' under the edges of the L-track to support the floor under the L-track flange.
Since I don't expect in my build to have significant loads on these L-tracks I'm fine with the Riv-nuts. If I'm securing a load, I've got access to the D-rings which are really solid.
The pieces at the front and rear are standard flanged L-track. They also are attached with Riv-nuts.
Since I don't expect in my build to have significant loads on these L-tracks I'm fine with the Riv-nuts. If I'm securing a load, I've got access to the D-rings which are really solid.
The pieces at the front and rear are standard flanged L-track. They also are attached with Riv-nuts.
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