Espar Install Question

bored

Member
Installing the d2 under the passenger seat.

I have been looking online and everyone seems to install the heater directly to the floor. I would prefer to make a base and mount everything to the base and then mount the base to the floor under the passenger seat.

I haven't seen anyone do this? Is there a reason?
 
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DSM

Camp-Explore-Build...Repeat
Esparparts.com includes a rectangular weatherstripped metal plate with pre-drilled holes in their sprinter kit. I assumed it was for mounting to a non-metal floor. They install the heater to this plate and cut a 4 x 6 inch hole in the floor instead of drilling individual holes in the floor.
Is this what you were thinking?
 

bored

Member
Yes that is exactly what I was thinking about making.

I was going to make the plate exactly the size of the opening under the passenger seat and then mount the heater, wiring and everything to the base.

I started thinking maybe the heater gets hot and needs to be mounted next to metal.
 
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vanski

'05 Snow Camper, '17 170 4x4, Adventure Vissionary
Bottom of floor is metal under seat. The gasket which comes with the Eberspacher can be used as the template. Once it’s all mounted it’s very strong w/out a plate. The new S2 d2 version is much smaller than old d2 and makes the project even easier. I recently installed for someone next to their aux battery under the seat. This would not have been an option with the steel plate. I don’t see any real value in using the plate and it will probably add 3 hours to the install time to get it right. You still need to cut into the floor anyhow, so pick your poison. It can be done with the plate, but why?

I guess rather than asking why not use the plate I’d ask why use the plate. I guess it would be less fiddly to assemble the furnace on a bench on the plate. That’s the only reason I can see to use the plate. Perhaps I’m missing something after installing over 20 of these things...
 
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Shawn182

Active member
OK, I'll ask...why?

The intake, exhaust and fuel line all drop out of the bottom of the unit and as mentioned there is a template and gasket to mount it right to and through the van floor with a nice clean install and the connections are made under the van. If you want raise it up on a base then make those connections under the seat you would need to rip all the hoses and lines out to have enough slack to lift the unit up should you ever need to remove it.

Would be a lot messier and more work to try and drop all those out one larger hole then try and seal that hole up IMO.
 

bored

Member
Thanks guys for the reply.

If it was lifted it wouldn't be more then 1/2"

Why? @vanski pretty much hit on it sorta when he said assemble it on a bench. It how I always have built cars. Modular. Makes installation and removal easy if and when it needs to removed. Most of this van has been designed this way.

Does the heater get hot? That might explain why no one has used wood as a base? It would also make an additional complication for a DIY because they would have the equipment to build one out of steel or aluminum.
 

vanski

'05 Snow Camper, '17 170 4x4, Adventure Vissionary
of course assembling on bench presents a challenge... g = GM/r2.
 

sparkplug

Active member
The heater body itself doesn't get hot enough to rule wood out - but of course one of the holes is for the exhaust which will get very hot.

You could probably put a liner sleeve in, but you really want to have a sealed hole so that there is no risk of exhaust gasses coming back in.

For this reason, wood would not be my first choice.

Like many others, I installed mine under the passenger seat and drilled directly into the van floor.

The only advantage I can see with the pre-drilled metal plate is that you don't have to be as precise with the hole you make in the floor - but as has already been said the rubber gasket included makes a perfect template for you to use for drilling the holes.

I don't really see any advantage of pre-assembling it on a bench - it doesn't really save you much time as it's only a couple of fittings really.

When I was researching it I came to the conclusion that the plate was just extra expense and wasn't really required.
 
If you lift it you gain a risk of exhaust leak inside of your van, when it is mounted to the metal floor the exhaust outlet where you attach your exhaust pipe is outside of the van. If you were to lift it it would then be inside which to me is a greater risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. If it is going to leak ever it will be at that area in my mind better to have it outside the van then in.
 

sparkplug

Active member
I agree completely with Vantastic.pa's comment

If you plan to lift it then you really need to use some sort of exhaust sealant and without question install a carbon monoxide alarm (which is a good idea even if you don't lift it)
 

bored

Member
Thanks everyone...

I have ruled out using a base. That is why I asked the question and what makes this forum so great.

For me right now its a product in a box and since I have never installed one nor have I ever needed such an item in any other car build I wanted to reach out to people with first hand experience.

Thank you again.
 

sparkplug

Active member
Don't know if it's remotely helpful to you - but here's some pics of the angle I installed mine at.

Of course the UK van has the passenger seat on the left of the vehicle so it may be different for left hand drive models....

The ruler in the first pic was there because I was using the seat mounting bolt as a reference point as it is visible from the underside of the van as well







you can see the bolt which I used as my reference point in this pic from the underside with the pilot holes drilled ready to be enlarged.

 

sparkplug

Active member
No problem!

However, I just noticed from your sig line that yours is a T1N and not an NCV3 like mine - so I'm not sure how helpful it's going to be to you.
 

bored

Member
Yes I noticed that when I saw you had an opening on the passenger side.

No worries because it still gave me some ideas.
 

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