Dash cam wiring

coss370

Member
Other than going to the fuse box under the seat. Anyone have a suggestion on what’s an easier or shorter place to tap the unit into. I need a 12v hot and ignition hot thanks
 

RVBarry

Well-known member
Hi, if you do NOT have the AUX battery option, the USB and cigarette lighter plugs will auto-shutoff a while after the ignition is shut off.
There's also juice in the headliner if you have the DIN slot option up there.

And there is another fusebox under the dash.
 

coss370

Member
I do not have the auc battery or the din. Are you talking about the big main fuse? I don’t think I should tap to the main one
 

GLJones

Active member
There is also another fuse box or block under the tool kit on the passenger floor. I ran a wire from there up the A pillar, across the liner over the windshield to the large box on the windshield that has the cameras and rear-view mirror on it. Ran my wire out the bottom of that box to the dash-cam. Very clean and no wires showing except the inch or so from the rear-view mount to the dash-cam.
 

mschoen

Member
There is also another fuse box or block under the tool kit on the passenger floor. I ran a wire from there up the A pillar, across the liner over the windshield to the large box on the windshield that has the cameras and rear-view mirror on it. Ran my wire out the bottom of that box to the dash-cam. Very clean and no wires showing except the inch or so from the rear-view mount to the dash-cam.
Oh this is interesting. How do you access that fuse block? What color was the constant hot? What color was the ignition hot wire?

thanks in advance
 

GLJones

Active member
I found a guide online somewhere (probably this forum) that showed how to remove the tool box exposing the fuse box under it. Then, I found a switched 12 volt feed. The dash cam uses so little power it should be no issue for any circuit. Works fine. I didn't take a pic of it or anything to assist.
 

mschoen

Member
Thank you for all the information, I got it all working by tapping into this fuse panel.
 

Jjm220

New member
What type of fuse tap did you guys use? The tap I bought does not lock into the fuse panel. Thanks!
 

DvDw

Member
On the ceiling you have the panel with the lights, the SOS button on it etc. (Don’t know the name). Remove it, after you’ve removed probe the wires on the big connector. You’ll find a constant 12v (even when the Sprinter is off) and an ground. Dismantle a 12V to 5V USB adapter and solder some wires to the 12V input. Plug the positive and negative wires in by the big connector. Did the same thing on my Sprinter
 

DvDw

Member
Just put an screwdriver with some cloth around it in the gap towards the rear side. Don’t be afraid to break it, it comes off quite easily
 

whidbeyben

New member
What type of fuse tap did you guys use? The tap I bought does not lock into the fuse panel. Thanks!
A typical add-a-fuse tap doesn't fit unless you cut away some of the plastic fins that separate the fuses in the slots. Even if you do that, the add-a-fuse doesn't lock in properly. I used a male 1/4" flat blade connector which is very close to the dimensions of a single blade on an ATC fuse, crimped that to an ATC fuse holder, and then plugged the male flat blade connector into the bus side of the fuse bank in slot that has the bus side connectors (you can see the copper conductors on the bus side in unused slots if you look closely). In the footwell fuses on the passenger side, bank S15 is accessory and ignition switched. My VS30 (Winnebago View chassis) had lots of blank spaces in S15. I used slot 26, which is supposed to be for the information panel socket- not installed with the limited edition (economy) cabin chassis in this particular build (7" MBUX, no power seats).
 

Attachments

coss370

Member
Sorry to bring this up, but my fuse box doesn't really match up to the fuses in the scan listed above! How can they be that far off?
 

whidbeyben

New member
Any instructions on how to remove it?
Insert a trim removal tool or spatula 1” into the gap between the outer trim ring and the actual lighting housing. Then angle the blade forward to depress the bar that releases the catches that hold the panel in. The whole panel will pivot down from the front. 55DD1E05-69B1-491F-91BC-CA8775BFD306.jpeg612CBDA8-48C4-4378-AB0D-D7D5D07E6981.jpeg71DEF9F0-F2ED-4467-8714-FDC40EF25D94.jpegD03787C8-42FC-4301-918C-8B7E078FD6D8.jpeg
55DD1E05-69B1-491F-91BC-CA8775BFD306.jpeg
 

whidbeyben

New member
Sorry to bring this up, but my fuse box doesn't really match up to the fuses in the scan listed above! How can they be that far off?
You may have a different model year/chassis or fuse diagram. The VS30 chassis may be present in 2018 and onward, but the older chassis was sold well into 2019 and even 2020 model RV’s. The other possibility is you may have to rotate the diagram to match up the fuse and relay positions.
 

coss370

Member
Oh yes sorry I was matching the PDF to the fuse box I had just opened. I was looking into getting a 12v positive there
 

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