Rocksnsalt
There Can Be Only ONE
Great thread, thanks for posting it!
Cut the rear panel, access hole for the battery disconnect as well as the clear plexi glass with access holes for the switch and your finger to toggle the switch on the Victron Mulit Plus 3000 inverter
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Battery switch installed
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I chose to go a slightly different route that what I have seen here, I didn't want an accidental battery disconnect to cause a failure of the alternator, I wanted positive control to kill the field to the alternator in case the disconnect was operated while the engine is running or the vehicle is started with the batteries disconnected. Blue Sea make a disconnect switch in their larger series (9004 E in my case), that has AFD (Alternator Field Disconnect) wiring, that disconnects the field before disconnecting the batteries and vice versa engages the field slightly after the batteries are reconnected.
View attachment 181865
I don't have a pic of the wiring on this right now, but basically, you wire the AFD terminals in series of the field wire coming from the regulator going to the alternator. In my case, the field wire is blue from the WakeSpeed regulator and green at the Nations alternator, so along the way I have a color change in the wiring.
Time to make battery cables
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Cut the rear panel, access hole for the battery disconnect as well as the clear plexi glass with access holes for the switch and your finger to toggle the switch on the Victron Mulit Plus 3000 inverter
View attachment 181863
Battery switch installed
View attachment 181864
I chose to go a slightly different route that what I have seen here, I didn't want an accidental battery disconnect to cause a failure of the alternator, I wanted positive control to kill the field to the alternator in case the disconnect was operated while the engine is running or the vehicle is started with the batteries disconnected. Blue Sea make a disconnect switch in their larger series (9004 E in my case), that has AFD (Alternator Field Disconnect) wiring, that disconnects the field before disconnecting the batteries and vice versa engages the field slightly after the batteries are reconnected.
View attachment 181865
I don't have a pic of the wiring on this right now, but basically, you wire the AFD terminals in series of the field wire coming from the regulator going to the alternator. In my case, the field wire is blue from the WakeSpeed regulator and green at the Nations alternator, so along the way I have a color change in the wiring.
Time to make battery cables
View attachment 181866
View attachment 181867
I like this idea of having a positive control to kill the field to the alternator on your main ON/OFF switch. It took me a couple time reading this to pick up on it. Thanks!!!Cut the rear panel, access hole for the battery disconnect as well as the clear plexi glass with access holes for the switch and your finger to toggle the switch on the Victron Mulit Plus 3000 inverter
View attachment 181863
Battery switch installed
View attachment 181864
I chose to go a slightly different route that what I have seen here, I didn't want an accidental battery disconnect to cause a failure of the alternator, I wanted positive control to kill the field to the alternator in case the disconnect was operated while the engine is running or the vehicle is started with the batteries disconnected. Blue Sea make a disconnect switch in their larger series (9004 E in my case), that has AFD (Alternator Field Disconnect) wiring, that disconnects the field before disconnecting the batteries and vice versa engages the field slightly after the batteries are reconnected.
View attachment 181865
I don't have a pic of the wiring on this right now, but basically, you wire the AFD terminals in series of the field wire coming from the regulator going to the alternator. In my case, the field wire is blue from the WakeSpeed regulator and green at the Nations alternator, so along the way I have a color change in the wiring.
Time to make battery cables
View attachment 181866
View attachment 181867
Curious why separate panels for inverter and shore, 2 sets of outlets? I'm considering one panel with input selector switch for shore/inverter1(battery)/"engine shore (inverter2)". I also have very little 120 v.The AC distribution will be handled by a pair of Blue Sea 1210 panels - https://www.boemarine.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=blue+sea+1210 -, 1 for "regular" inverter power and 1 for "shore power".
I see you have all your fuses in the Lynx distributor. I read the entire book on the MPPT, 13 pages, and missed the fuse size for the charge controller. Would it be the Max. PV short circuit current, 60 A? I have the 100/50 MPPT.Mounting my "wiring box" in the van, using the L-tracks as fastening locations
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Leaving some historical evidence of my footprint.
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Most of the cables made and installed, battery straps installed and in the van.
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Getting things hooked up
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A quick side trip to the nursery to pickup a dogwood tree that I wanted to surprise the wife with.
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Are you actually considering 4 AC circuits? I think of my kitchen having all of its counter outlets on a single breaker and it seems like even two circuits in a van would be plenty.I have dismissed that one, I am ok with the Blue Sea 1210 AC panel
It's a good thing we are convoying together because you're going to need some help when you burn your place down! HaHaAre you actually considering 4 AC circuits? I think of my kitchen having all of its counter outlets on a single breaker and it seems like even two circuits in a van would be plenty.
Why not just mount a couple of these to one of the surfaces on your electrical cabinet? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2IKMI
That also allows you to keep the un-fused path between the breakers and inverter as short as possible, saves valuable wall real estate, not to mention money. Maybe the mini breakers will be less convenient to access, but how often are you blowing them? They're pretty much emergency only.
Yes, considering multiple circuits. 1 for the outside outlet (off unless actually using it), 1 for the Isotemp, 1 for the microwave (in case I end up with a clock and 1 for the remaining outlets. I already have the Blue Sea panel, so that is sunk cost.Are you actually considering 4 AC circuits? I think of my kitchen having all of its counter outlets on a single breaker and it seems like even two circuits in a van would be plenty.
Why not just mount a couple of these to one of the surfaces on your electrical cabinet? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2IKMI
That also allows you to keep the un-fused path between the breakers and inverter as short as possible, saves valuable wall real estate, not to mention money. Maybe the mini breakers will be less convenient to access, but how often are you blowing them? They're pretty much emergency only.
For the lines from the PV panels to the MPPT, I will be using a double pole disconnect rated at 16A, the fuse on the Lynx is a 100A fuse (smallest mega fuse I could find). That fuse is really there to protect the wiring, in case the wire falls out and shorts something.I see you have all your fuses in the Lynx distributor. I read the entire book on the MPPT, 13 pages, and missed the fuse size for the charge controller. Would it be the Max. PV short circuit current, 60 A? I have the 100/50 MPPT.
I was wanting to read about connecting the Blue Sea battery disconnect switch- 9004e. Do you remember where you got that information about using it with the alternator field disconnect?