hilld's slow roll build

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johnplyler

2020 4x4
The electrical layout looks nice, a little larger than I imaged. I see you have two Lynx Distributors. I was thinking you would only need one. I also was not expecting the large bus bars, what are they for?
I plan to copy Explorist Life 400Ah layout. He didn't seem to have quite as large of a layout and parts for the same items is the reason I am asking???
 
J

johnplyler

2020 4x4
You say you have two 120 volt panels one for inverter and one for shore. I guess I haven't figured that far ahead. I was thinking the inverter/charger would take care of all of that and you would only need one panel? I haven't really looked into it. I was really going off of a YouTube showing how the inverter/charger worked.
 
MS42

MS42

2014 Freightliner 3500
Do you have something you want to run off of shore power only? If not, then why two AC panels Instead of an automatic transfer switch?
 
hilld

hilld

Well-known member
The reason I ended with those bus bars is that they were on special for $30 bucks each, so that is what I ended up with. I will actually raise them off the wall and run cables below. I also have some amps for the stereo and subwoofer that will hook up to the bus bar and it allows for expansion if I should ever need it. The reason I have 2 Lynx distributors is that I will use one for the battery connection and the other for DC connections. I wanted everything fused and I ended up getting a discount on the 2 Lynx's so once again, that is what I ended up with. I can't walk away from a bargain.

The reason I will have 2 AC panels, is that some items will only function with shore power, such as the AC on the fridge and the electric heat on the Isotemp hot water heater. Hope that makes sense. The Victron inverter actually has 2 AC outs for just this purpose.

I suppose I could probably make things more compact, however, access to the components for serviceability is important.
 
hilld

hilld

Well-known member
MS42 said:
Do you have something you want to run off of shore power only? If not, then why two AC panels Instead of an automatic transfer switch?
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Yup, the fridge will normally run off DC power, but when connected to shore power I want to run in with AC as well as the Isotemp hot water heater, when on shore power, I can heat the hot water with that. Those are pretty much the only things I can think of. Perhaps a portable space heater when at home or in a camp ground, why burn fuel when you don't have to.

The Victron 3000 has an internal transfer switch and has the 2 outputs one for normal inverter power and one for dedicated shore power.

This explains it a bit better: https://www.victronenergy.com/uploa...inverter-charger_2kVA-and-3kVA-120V-US-EN.pdf
 
J

johnplyler

2020 4x4
I plan to use the Honda 2200 watt generator to run my A/C. I hooked it up and it topped out, I forget, but way above the normal amps. but for only a split second. If you didn't watch your meter really close, you would miss it. Anyway I ran the A/C for at least 30 minutes and it seemed fine.

Would you have any idea if I can rig a three way Victron 3000 hookup for battery, shore, and generator?

You might want to look at Explorist Life's YouTube. It goes on for an hour or so, but he really details out the wiring.

Please keep me in the loop.
John
 
hilld

hilld

Well-known member
johnplyler said:
I was thinking about this after I said it. Isn't the shore power inlet the same as for the generator?
Click to expand...
Yes, you have only 1 external power input, so you pick either Gen Set or Shore Power. If you need more than one, that is where a transfer switch comes into play. I would think a manual one would be more than sufficient.
 
RVBarry

RVBarry

2023 AWD 170 DIY CamperVan
johnplyler said:
I was thinking about this after I said it. Isn't the shore power inlet the same as for the generator?
Click to expand...
hilld said:
Yes, you have only 1 external power input, so you pick either Gen Set or Shore Power. If you need more than one, that is where a transfer switch comes into play. I would think a manual one would be more than sufficient.
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Hi, I wrote about these recently:
BSS 9009:

AC Rotary Switch - OFF + 2 Positions 120V AC 30A - Blue Sea Systems

Heavy duty industrial rated switches provide a compact and intuitive solution for safety managing AC sources when circuit protection is provided elsewhere.
www.bluesea.com www.bluesea.com
They also sell panels with it included.

Or get rid of the current shore breaker and use BSS 4125 or 4130:

Lockout Slides - Blue Sea Systems

Enable safe management of multiple AC sources with use double or triple pole circuit breakers.
www.bluesea.com www.bluesea.com

Or an inverter/charger with 2 inputs, pretty sure I've seen them.

See thread at https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/81384/post-1012183
 
J

johnplyler

2020 4x4
I think I have all the electrical components except for the MPPT, and solar panels. I see you got the 150/60. I hear that having one too large is OK. Is this what you have heard?

I haven't gotten the MPPT because I have decided on the solar panels yet. I don't want to take up my entire roof top, so I am thinking I will have a couple fold-ups. The fold-ups will also allow me to park in the shade and put the panels in the sun!

I can only give so much time every day to this project so today I plan to decide on the wiring length from the Nations alternator back to the rear equipment on the driver's side.

My setup looks identical to your. I would be curious what length wiring you came up with? I hear that 2/0 is what you want. I am thinking I will run my ground all the way back as well and that will put all the questions of frame connection to rest. I have ran lots of conduit wiring, so I know you need to add a little. I am adding 5 feet to the length. I would rather throw away 5 feet than be short 1-inch. If you have found a GREAT price on this wiring I would be glad to know that too!
 
hilld

hilld

Well-known member
johnplyler said:
I think I have all the electrical components except for the MPPT, and solar panels. I see you got the 150/60. I hear that having one too large is OK. Is this what you have heard?

I haven't gotten the MPPT because I have decided on the solar panels yet. I don't want to take up my entire roof top, so I am thinking I will have a couple fold-ups. The fold-ups will also allow me to park in the shade and put the panels in the sun!

I can only give so much time every day to this project so today I plan to decide on the wiring length from the Nations alternator back to the rear equipment on the driver's side.

My setup looks identical to your. I would be curious what length wiring you came up with? I hear that 2/0 is what you want. I am thinking I will run my ground all the way back as well and that will put all the questions of frame connection to rest. I have ran lots of conduit wiring, so I know you need to add a little. I am adding 5 feet to the length. I would rather throw away 5 feet than be short 1-inch. If you have found a GREAT price on this wiring I would be glad to know that too!
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Wow, so many questions. I know that feeling.

1. I sized my MPPT for a potential of 800W, even though right now I only have a single 400W panel sitting in the garage - just picked it up a week ago.

2. Finding time is difficult, and when you do find time, it gets expensive to order all the stuff you MIGHT need for an install. I have a few extra spares of connectors, glands, etc. :rolleyes:

3. I purchased the wiring for the alternator via a kit from Nations as Adam suggested. I had them do 30' of 2/0 black and red welding cable. He included a lot of stuff, but I feel the kit is really overpriced. The cable is USA made cable so you are probably paying extra for that, but it is what it is. Call it the Sprinter tax. I have been working on prepping the wiring harnesses by adding WeatherPack connectors at all the connection points and will document those later once the alternator and regulator (in the rear of the van near the other electrical components) are installed.

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4. I did order 10' of 2 AWG wire yesterday to hookup the batteries to the Lynx Distributor, no need to waste 2/0 cable for each battery as each battery will have a dedicated and fused connection.
5. Next step for me once I come back from my road trip the week after next is to drill some holes in the floor and route the cable along the left side of the van to the engine area, then cross over to the passenger side and hook them up to the alternator that I also have to install.
 
J

johnplyler

2020 4x4
Thanks, 30 feet of 2/0 should definitely do it! I am mounting my Wakespeed Regulator in the garage so I don't plan to use weather proof connector. I am hoping to make up the harness my self. I didn't want to pay $30 for theirs. These 4/0 terminals are something like $5-10 apiece, so I am looking around for my options. I am going with the best quality (within reason). I am pretty sure you can reverse the Wakespeed Regulator harness (the one that comes with the alternator) and cut out the wire ties cleaning it up so it is not such a spaghetti mess.

Be thinking about that sink drain trap. I want to go from a 1-1/4 drain trap to a hose pipe to my grey water tank under the van. I have a 1-inch electric valve to open the grey water tank when I want to dump it. I only plan to use environmentally safe soap, so my dump can be most anywhere except my campsite. The grey water tank will be empty except when I am camping, so I don't plan to have a heater. I guess if I have to, I could add a little windshield cleaner to keep it from freezing if it comes to that. I plan to experiment with my tank. It will be aluminum that I weld up. I am thinking that unless the tank is totally full, it could freeze, the water expand, and not damage the tank, any ideas?
 
hilld

hilld

Well-known member
You could always do a bad welding job where there is a slight leak in your tank. You will never have to empty it. :ROFLMAO:
On the connectors, I am just not a fan of butt splices, I like to be able to disconnect harnesses. I already had a weatherpack kit so that is what I used, I am also using the connectors at the alternator side of things. Now just waiting on an order to show up with my wire.
 
J

johnplyler

2020 4x4
hilld said:
You could always do a bad welding job where there is a slight leak in your tank. You will never have to empty it. :ROFLMAO:
On the connectors, I am just not a fan of butt splices, I like to be able to disconnect harnesses. I already had a weatherpack kit so that is what I used, I am also using the connectors at the alternator side of things. Now just waiting on an order to show up with my wire.
Click to expand...
I'm not using butt splices. I mean RJ45 and DB9. I am thinking you can buy these and they are just like the old phone connectors, you crimp them in. That way I will not have a coil of wire from buy something too long.
 
hilld

hilld

Well-known member
The draw is pretty much and unknown as 2 different families will be using it. I plan on having a microwave, induction cooktop (single burner) and coffee maker (Nespresso) along with a Dometic CFX3 fridge, lighting, stereo, etc. I am probably high on the 300A of batteries and 400W of solar, but to me I would rather have some spare capacity rather than the other way around. This is my first foray into RV'ing, so mistakes are bound to be made. Let's call it a trial and error method of load calculation.
 
G

grooverider

Active member
Ha well I'm in the same boat except I have less draw and smaller space so that's why I was asking. I also just got a composting toilet, and noticed you mentioned yours was TBD. Any ideas if you are moving forward on that and how you would vent?
 
J

johnplyler

2020 4x4
I have an idea that if you have 100Ah of battery, that it will run most any system. I am thinking it is how long are you going to be setting in camp is the question?
 
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