Radiator lower Atf Line

[Nautamaran]

Mixing different types of coolant can lead to the formation of a jelly in the system... it sounds like you can now confirm this first hand?

The factory G-05 coolant is an ethylene glycol HOAT formulation. If this gets mixed with a propylene glycol based coolant (such as Dexcool) then their chemicals will react and form a gell. This can then restrict coolant flow and cause localized overheating, which in turn can warp the head, overheat injector seals, generally cause mayhem...

The good news is that a citrous flush will dissolve this goo while attacking any mineral scale, though it may take longer to reach confined areas if they have clogged up, so in extreme cases a “rinse and repeat” approach may be required.

-dave

 

[bstvanevr]

Mixing different types of coolant can lead to the formation of a jelly in the system... it sounds like you can now confirm this first hand?

The factory G-05 coolant is an ethylene glycol HOAT formulation. If this gets mixed with a propylene glycol based coolant (such as Dexcool) then their chemicals will react and form a gell. This can then restrict coolant flow and cause localized overheating, which in turn can warp the head, overheat injector seals, generally cause mayhem...

The good news is that a citrous flush will dissolve this goo while attacking any mineral scale, though it may take longer to reach confined areas if they have clogged up, so in extreme cases a “rinse and repeat” approach may be required.

-dave

Ok Thank you! so bear with me for 1 more question because i'm very nervous about re-starting my van.

I will be attempting the flush at the same time as my.. 'first start' of my van following a front end service which will be.. new water pump, 2 idler pully's, tensioner and viscous fan. So i should follow flush directions for citrus flush at the same time i'll be ? ..while looking for leaks and pully issues from all the new parts) and then after flush.. add G-05 50/50 mix and follow top off instructions for new coolant.

Oh my... Sorry for all the questions but you guys are all i have to make me feel confident enough to do this.

 

[tbuyan]

Plain water also lacks the anti-cavitation properties that diesels require to prevent pitting the cylinder walls. Google it; pretty amazing.

 

[Nautamaran]

Ok Thank you! so bear with me for 1 more question because i'm very nervous about re-starting my van.

I will be attempting the flush at the same time as my.. 'first start' of my van following a front end service which will be.. new water pump, 2 idler pully's, tensioner and viscous fan. So i should follow flush directions for citrus flush at the same time i'll be ? ..while looking for leaks and pully issues from all the new parts) and then after flush.. add G-05 50/50 mix and follow top off instructions for new coolant.

Oh my... Sorry for all the questions but you guys are all i have to make me feel confident enough to do this.

I would do exactly that, yes.

Your assembly checks - water pump turns freely, bolts all torqued to spec, belt & pulleys align, hose clamps tight, drain plug in, etc. etc. - will help limit any troubles. If you should find any leaks or other issues during the flush you can just stop the engine and address them while the chemicals work their magic, then fire it back up and confirm you’ve fixed the issue. It can be intimidating to have the nose apart, especially the first time, but if you take your time and work methodically it usually all works out.

Let us know how it turns out!

-dave

 

[Nautamaran]

Plain water also lacks the anti-cavitation properties that diesels require to prevent pitting the cylinder walls. Google it; pretty amazing.

Well. I just learned a new thing! ?
Bubble cavitation is NASTY, and able to erode metal in many contexts.
I first encountered it in ship propeller design, and later in choosing pump impellers, but I’d not heard of vibrations driving bubble formation.
My sense is that this is rare to unheard of in T1Ns, but then we’re not all driving around with hard water in the rad?

-dave

 

[bstvanevr]

I would do exactly that, yes.

Your assembly checks - water pump turns freely, bolts all torqued to spec, belt & pulleys align, hose clamps tight, drain plug in, etc. etc. - will help limit any troubles. If you should find any leaks or other issues during the flush you can just stop the engine and address them while the chemicals work their magic, then fire it back up and confirm you’ve fixed the issue. It can be intimidating to have the nose apart, especially the first time, but if you take your time and work methodically it usually all works out.

Let us know how it turns out!

-dave

Perfect! Thank you! I will report back on the first start and flush with my new parts.

 

[tbuyan]

Well. I just learned a new thing! ?
Bubble cavitation is NASTY, and able to erode metal in many contexts.
I first encountered it in ship propeller design, and later in choosing pump impellers, but I’d not heard of vibrations driving bubble formation.
My sense is that this is rare to unheard of in T1Ns, but then we’re not all driving around with hard water in the rad?

-dave

I first encountered it when rebuilding my John Deere 350 dozer a couple decades ago. It's a wet sleeve motor and the pitting was a complete mystery until the folks at the JD parts counter enlightened me. Cavitation inhibitor additive for the coolant is available at NAPA. Presumably HOAT coolant includes it