Espar D2 with 2019 Sprinter with Fuel-Fired Heater booster question

[JohnnyYukon]

Installing the Heatso Espar D2 kit into my 2019 Sprinter passenger w/ 18K BTU fuel-fired heater booster option. I didn't I had the heater booster until I looked under the driver's side of the vehicle and noticed the second little muffler system for that unit while looking for the fuel tap.

Can someone confirm the fuel-fired heater booster uses the aux fuel tap I was planning on using? Does this mean I need to add the T which is included with my kit?

Thanks in advance.

 

[JohnnyYukon]

Heard back from Heatso - they confirmed that the T adaptor will need to be inserted into the fuel line as there isn't an aux line from the tank available. Next step will be determining where to insert that when I get back under the van. Lot of lines down there.

 

[JohnnyYukon]

There are three lines - one with a blue coupler, one with a white coupler (both full size) and a smaller line with a yellow coupler which feeds the Espar booster already in the van. Anyone have an opinion or recommendation about which one to insert the T into? To use the smaller, yellow line feeding the other heater, I'll need a different T. That's unappealing but I also like the idea of not messing with primary fuel lines.

 

[VanGoSki]

Yes, the yellow connector that feeds the other heater. Use this T. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMB4I62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mKEoDbP5TDPBB

The other lines may be higher pressure that can mess you up.

 

[JohnnyYukon]

Awesome, thanks. Weird that the T only has barbs on one side?

 

[VanGoSki]

@JohnnyYukon No, not weird at all. The bayonet end is the same shape as the fuel line you pull out of the existing connector and snaps right into it. The barbed end is only for the added fuel line to the Espar. This could not be simpler to install this way. You're not cutting any factory fuel lines, just snapping right into the existing connectors.

 

[JohnnyYukon]

VGS - that worked great, thank you so much for the tip. Now just have to get the wiring done and this project is a wrap.

 

[iksro]

@JohnnyYukon can you take a picture of the fuel line setup you have? I am going to tackle this in a week or so and was wondering the same thing as you, how did the fuel barb workout for you? I appreciate your help.

 

[JohnnyYukon]

You can see here that the adapter suggested by VGS just clips right in.

1) unclip yellow piece
2) insert adaptor
3) clip yellow piece back
4) factory fuel booster snaps onto one side, Espar fuel line clips onto the other with the hose fitting supplied by Heatso.

Now, I have not done any further work on this yet as I'm waiting to do all the electrical crap in one push when the front seats are remove: wiring in house batteries under hood, adding fuse block, wiring up Espar, wiring in a 1000W inverter. Today I realized that I needed to winterize my water system as it's going to be 20˚ here later this week so that bumped everything.

 

[filmcan99]

Great post!! Thank you JohnnyYukon and VanGoSki. I will be installing this next week

 

[Jaydavis226]

Has anyone ran the exhaust on the 4x4 to the drivers side? I could only find photos of 4x2 nothing with 4x4. If someone had and has photo that would be deeply appreciated.

 

[RonGos]

Check out https://radvanadventures.com/2017/02/12/espar-heater-installation-diy-guide/. I would run my exhaust to driver side if I could find more exhaust pipe. I am in Vancouver BC and need to find another 3' of the 1" diameter exhaust pipe. Espar only gave me 3'. Lordco can order in 25'. Anyone have ideas where to find 3'?

 

[Kajtek1]

Late to the topic, but my years of experience with diesels teach me that each connection is high possibility for additional troubles.
Vacuum leak - common on diesel suction sides are not visible, when they can drive you crazy.
So bottom line- avoid Tees as they make troubleshooting a nightmare.
I did 1 Sprinter conversion, when I used factory tank pipe for adding cabin heater, but working now on my 2nd conversion, I am leaning toward using the 10l tank the clone heater supply and add electric fuel pump from main tank into heater tank.
This way heater tank -placed inside will not give me a trouble in cold weather and everything will be in 1 spot to troubleshoot.
Unfortunately the diesel heaters don't have high reliability notes, so plan on servicing them on the road

 

[Shea V]

You can see here that the adapter suggested by VGS just clips right in.

1) unclip yellow piece
2) insert adaptor
3) clip yellow piece back
4) factory fuel booster snaps onto one side, Espar fuel line clips onto the other with the hose fitting supplied by Heatso.

Now, I have not done any further work on this yet as I'm waiting to do all the electrical crap in one push when the front seats are remove: wiring in house batteries under hood, adding fuse block, wiring up Espar, wiring in a 1000W inverter. Today I realized that I needed to winterize my water system as it's going to be 20˚ here later this week so that bumped everything.


View attachment 160809

I got the Dorman 800-177 fuel t-connector. The barbed end measures 9mm at the widest point (the o-ring on the end). What size (ID) fuel line should I use? 1/4" is 6.3mm ID, which I got on by heating up the hose in water (see pic), but I'm wondering is 5/16" would be better? That's around 8mm ID which should still be snug on the 5/16" line plus a t-clamp to secure. Maybe the 1/4" is fine now that I got it on.

 

[VanGoSki]

1/4" is what I used. If you go 5/16", you'll need another reducer to get it down to the skinny pump connection.

 

[Sprinter907]

I installed the Espar D2 behind the driver's seat so it was easy to access the fuel tap on the aux booster line - and the exhaust is already on the driver's side as well. I use the Dorman taps as shown above and haven't had any issues all winter with fuel feed. (Though I did have one fault at -25F that was apparently caused by ice in the intake.) Note that I put a loop in the fuel line to avoid any tight radius bends.

 

[Mis1rab]

Thanks to all that have contributed to this post. I spent the better half of the day trying to figure where was the Aux fule tap as I have seen in several YouTube videos. I have a 2021 Sprinter and check the build list and it turns out that we do have a fuel-fired heater booster as well (don't remember ordering it but such as life). Based on my understanding of this thread I will need to purchase the T Dorman taps as VanGoSki has suggested so that we can split the fule line? Thanks again to everyone especially JohnnyYukon and VanGoSki, this saves me another wasted day trying to figure this out.

 

[jjmcclure]

Thanks to all that have contributed to this post. I spent the better half of the day trying to figure where was the Aux fule tap as I have seen in several YouTube videos. I have a 2021 Sprinter and check the build list and it turns out that we do have a fuel-fired heater booster as well (don't remember ordering it but such as life). Based on my understanding of this thread I will need to purchase the T Dorman taps as VanGoSki has suggested so that we can split the fule line? Thanks again to everyone especially JohnnyYukon and VanGoSki, this saves me another wasted day trying to figure this out.

Yes, it’s the small line, yellow tab in your pic. For peace of mind, you can follow it to the factory D4.

 

[Jeepn61]

I’m very happy I found this post! Now, my problem is disconnecting the yellow aux heater fuel connector. The white and blue both came apart easily while installing the 47 gal replacement tank. Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[Mis1rab]

@Jeepn61 Hi there, I also found the yellow line to be a bit challenging to come off but I just wiggled and tugged on it until it came off. I hope that helps (kinda).