Coolant Change

[transakt]

DesertAdventures--thanks for that tip. Used that method on my 03, but flushed with garden hose nozzle and lots of water.System refilled with 8 quarts of of coolant diluted 50/50. I probably should have filled with water and driven it to flush out the last 2 qts (apparently in heater circuit), but didn't. Anyway the old stuff still looked OK.

 

[DesertAdventures]

DesertAdventures--thanks for that tip. Used that method on my 03, but flushed with garden hose nozzle and lots of water.System refilled with 8 quarts of of coolant diluted 50/50. I probably should have filled with water and driven it to flush out the last 2 qts (apparently in heater circuit), but didn't. Anyway the old stuff still looked OK.

Glad it helped. I also feel garden hose is fine for the flush then use the air evacuate mentioned earlier and follow up with distilled water, drive and flush a second time. This I feel is even more important if you have no service information from past owner.

I prefer to log the details with date and mileage on just about everything I do to van for not only my records but the next owners also.

Past has proven if you regularly maintain, use quality parts and approved fluids, the T1n's will usually provide many years of use.

 

[drew502]

If you do the the flush with distilled water after draining from the radiator, is it still necessary to drain coolant from the engine block drain bolt?

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Not really. Flushing through the drain bolt is sometimes called for in badly contaminated systems, or vans that have not seen regular coolant changes.

 

[sikwan]

If you do the the flush with distilled water after draining from the radiator, is it still necessary to drain coolant from the engine block drain bolt?

It doesn't hurt it if you have a little of the old coolant in the system. Besides, it will never be 100% new.

 

[drew502]

Since I have front grill/headlight off, Espar removed, and replacing the electric circulation pump, it makes sense to do the coolant service now.

 

[220629]

It doesn't hurt it if you have a little of the old coolant in the system. Besides, it will never be 100% new.

Yep. If changed during the recommended interval the coolant is still good serviceable product. It's a toxic waste according to the EPA, but not for your engine.



The HOAT coolant 15 year 160,000 mile interval specified for the 2006 gives a pretty wide open window for service.

vic

 

[drew502]

04 Sprinter with 72k miles - should I do the thermostat as long as I'm at it? Anything else in the coolant loop?

 

[sikwan]

04 Sprinter with 72k miles - should I do the thermostat as long as I'm at it? Anything else in the coolant loop?

The radiator cap? The espar heater electric motor pump.



I'm at ~80k and I still have my originals, except for the electric motor pump.

 

[ncos]

I've come across another method on the web that folks use for the coolant flush:

https://xtremeadvanture.com/coolant-flush-and-fill/

Are there any merits/dager to this approach versus the method(s) described in this write up? It sounds simple and like it avoids having to go after the engine block drain.

 

[220629]

I've come across another method on the web that folks use for the coolant flush:

https://xtremeadvanture.com/coolant-flush-and-fill/

Are there any merits/dager to this approach versus the method(s) described in this write up? It sounds simple and like it avoids having to go after the engine block drain.

It appears ok in general. Basically the system just needs to be purged of most of the old coolant.

Personally I prefer to leave that hard to access, tiny, slow flowing radiator drain out of the picture. I just loosen a lower radiator hose while over a large catch pan.

A couple picky things.
My 2006 Operator Manual calls for 160,000 miles or 15 years, not 100,000 miles. The fluid page is posted above.

They mention 1 gallon of full strength G05 coolant being used with 2 gallons of distilled water. My recollection is that a 50% mix is recommended. The ratio mentioned is not 50%.

They caution about "mixing" with the old coolant. Unless something other than the MB 235.0 recommended coolant was used, a bit of leftover coolant isn't poison.

...

If changed during the recommended interval the coolant is still good serviceable product. It's a toxic waste according to the EPA, but not for your engine.
...

The HOAT coolant 15 year 160,000 mile interval specified for the 2006 gives a pretty wide open window for service.

vic

 

[sikwan]

The only thing I don't like is the water hose. Of course if the change intervals were neglected then that would be another story.

The drain and fill method, without flushing, at intervals works for me.


As for the 50/50, I fill mine to 40/60 (coolant/water, not that I had ever measured it) since I live in a mild climate. I don't think I've ever had the van in snow.

 

[220629]

...


As for the 50/50, I fill mine to 40/60 (coolant/water, not that I had ever measured it) since I live in a mild climate. I don't think I've ever had the van in snow.

It's not necessarily all about achieving low temperature operation. The 50% mix also relates to the amount of anti-corrosion, anti-cavitation erosion, and other performance additives. Especially for an extended service coolant like HOAT, a lower concentration could mean that the additives may deplete before the recommended change interval.

Living where I do, I just use a 50% mix. I haven't had any reason to research the implications of lower HOAT/G05 concentration as relates to coolant performance.

vic

Added:
Some good news for 40%.

"Coolants are generally considered to be compatible, however, mixing coolants of two different qualities results in a mixture of intermediate quality. While not a disaster, mixing a great coolant with a mediocre coolant will result in a coolant with something of less than great performance.

Overdilution with water would have a negative effect, because the corrosion inhibitors would be present in the engine at quantities lower than originally designed. Coolants are designed to work over a range of dilutions.

The optimum for most coolant systems is 50 percent coolant and 50 percent good-quality water, and in general coolants are designed to tolerate dilution down to about 40 percent concentrate and 60 percent water."
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/841/coolant-fundamentals

 

[DesertAdventures]

04 Sprinter with 72k miles - should I do the thermostat as long as I'm at it? Anything else in the coolant loop?

I'd let stat be unless you're having overheating issues. Also, check all your hoses and belt thoroughly for any damage etc..

Another reason I flush thoroughly, is one likely doesn't know what antifreeze prior owner used.

 

[drew502]

I'd let stat be unless you're having overheating issues. Also, check all your hoses and belt thoroughly for any damage etc..

Another reason I flush thoroughly, is one likely doesn't know what antifreeze prior owner used.

No overheating issues, hoses look good, serpentine belt was done with alternator about 25k miles ago. I'm thinking I will drain, flush, refill and replace my electric coolant pump. I have my Espar Booster out for service so this is the perfect time to do the coolant service.

 

[alexk243]

With regular changes a flush/detergent is not necessary. If the system is suspected to be poorly maintained a flush additive can be worth it.

I am at 260000 miles with no knowledge of the previous owners maintenance on the van. I have replaced the water pump and just drained and refiled with Zerex G-05 Coolant (roughly 50/50 with distilled, similar to what I use in my Volvo), but I am thinking I should do a flush, due to the unknown previous maintenance. What flush/detergent would you guys recommend?

I've used the Gunk one before in other cars, but not sure the difference between the different types of flushes.

Gunk - https://amzn.to/2SzZw3S
Thermocure - https://amzn.to/2sfd60Z
Royal Purple - https://amzn.to/2AwQq0P
Prestone - https://amzn.to/2SEjqe3

Has anyone used any of these or is there other ones people recommend? Do you want one that is a "Rust Remover"?

Also is it okay to run it with just water temporarily to assist in the flush if you are lacking the lubrication of the coolant?

 

[Midwestdrifter]

I would suggest the prestone stuff, it works all right. How did the coolant look when you drained it? Brown? Really cloudy? With a bright light you can look into the radiator reservoir. If it has significant deposits, you may consider a flush.


I would not run the engine for any significant period with straight water. Even a small amount of coolant is needed to lubricate the water pump seal. The flush may have some lubricant in it. You can rub some between your fingers to see if it is "slippery".

 

[alexk243]

I would suggest the prestone stuff, it works all right. How did the coolant look when you drained it? Brown? Really cloudy? With a bright light you can look into the radiator reservoir. If it has significant deposits, you may consider a flush.


I would not run the engine for any significant period with straight water. Even a small amount of coolant is needed to lubricate the water pump seal. The flush may have some lubricant in it. You can rub some between your fingers to see if it is "slippery".

I don't recall what it looked like... which to me means it wasn't noticeably bad lol

So maybe putting a little bit of fresh coolant (G-05) with the flushing agent/water mix may be best?

 

[220629]

My opinions.

Rust shouldn't be a problem.

Be careful with any harsh chemicals. I'm convinced that there have been a few problems highlighted here on the forum which were owner induced by using, or maybe misusing flush chemicals.

I agree with not running for any time/distance with water only.

The G05 coolant is fully approved and fine. Assuming the drained coolant didn't look bad enough to catch your eye, if you are still concerned I would reduce your next change interval. I wouldn't jump to harsh chemicals unless visual inspection shows problems as MWD suggested.

vic

Why Do We Need HOAT G05 Coolant?
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72398

Added:
I found this article very informative.
(I'm partial to most of the stuff that Chevron publishes. It generally includes practical application information, not just warnings and scare tactics.)

Engine Coolant Basics
Paul Fritz, Chevron

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/841/coolant-fundamentals

Added:
From a Database thread.

T1N Engine Coolant

The 2004 Owner Manual specifically mentions Zerex G05 coolant. (Refer above to Post #1.)

The 2006 specifies some other choices.



Euro Peak Coolant Antifreeze, OLD WORLD INDUSTRIES
Zerex G05
Zerex G48
Glysantin G05, BASF AG
Mopar 05066386AA or equiv.

Old World Industries (Peak) is not a small time operation. They manufacture/blend/package products for many different brand labels. From my research the Peak products are considered a quality choice which is still reasonably priced.

For those recommending dealership products only because Zerex G05 doesn't have a Mercedes label... there it is above in writing from my 2006 manual. Zerex G05 and the other listings are fine per Mother Mercedes.

vic

Added:

A reply to an older post.

G48 is very similar to G-05.
...

My understanding is that the G48 formulation was required to meet Euro standards. I believe it relates to their regs... phosphate free. (Maybe gleaned from previous BeVo information?)

There is no reason to stray from the G05 HOAT formulation if you are in N. America.
It appears that Zerex G05 has fallen off the list for MB325.0 coolant. Not because it isn't approved at all, but because it is no longer approved for Euro markets. It has been listed in Owner/Operator Manuals so it remains approved. MB states that the Operator Manual always applies (evergreen).

Added:
"The G-30 is basically the same as DexCool.

The G-05 has more reserve alkalinity than the G-48 and has replaced G-48 as factory fill for Mercedes. [I believe G48 has replaced G05. - vic] They both originate with BASF in Germany in the Glysantin line:

http://www.basf.de/en/produkte/chemikalien/spezial/glysantin/productrange/?id=G0qgQ5i2wbsf1i6

The G-48 is nitrite-free, which means unlike G-05 it can�t be used with wet sleeves. G-05 has a smidgeon more silicate than G-48.

And its [G48] availability in North America is thin, indeed. Valvoline suggests using G-05 to replace it."
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=613531

Zerex G05 has properties which G48 does not.
Nitrites = protect against cavitation.
More reserve alkalinity = longer coolant service life.
Also. (Not G05 specific.)
Carboxylates = cavitation protection.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/841/coolant-fundamentals

Use G-05 in your T1N. Your head gasket will thank you. Replace every 5 years or 100k. Which ever comes first. Nothing lasts forever.

Also, running your van diluted by DI/distilled water isn't the best idea. Running it for 3 seconds won't do anything. Run it for 5 minutes and you may find that your water pump has started to weep a bit and then full on leak. Water is a decent lubricant but coolant DOES add proper lubrication for the water pump. I used to do the distilled water flush ~10 years ago in Saabs cuz I thought it was brilliant. It's not.

My mode is to change the coolant on the proper schedule. Coolant changed on proper schedule is perfectly serviceable product. It is toxic waste to the EPA, but not to your engine. I won't use any flush chemicals or procedures unless visual inspection or symptoms show the need.

vic

I found the article which I linked above very informative.
(I'm partial to most of the stuff that Chevron publishes. It generally includes practical application information, not just warnings and scare tactics.)

Engine Coolant Basics
Paul Fritz, Chevron

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/841/coolant-fundamentals

 

[Douglas Hicks]

I use the universal antifreeze in my vans, as per my mechanic.

I had an auxillary heater put in the back of my 2005. I left a 1/2 nipple tray in the back of my van, with instructions to use my parts or use heater hose nipples. They did not use metal nipples, used plastic nipples. Plastic nipples were not a good choice, one of them broke, and spewed antifreeze on the hiway. There cheapness cost me an engine, a transmission, and a radiator. I will never use Peterson Dodge in Nampa again.