Coolant Change

I have an early '02 T1N, two models were built in '02. Does anyone know or can tell me where I can find the capacity of my radiator/coolant system?
 

white whale

Member
Finally a bonus left from the previous owner and to O P. First time really good flush. What a great help having the drain tube in permanent, convenient route and holes. I went a bit more and added 5/8 clear flex hose to the end of the hose then onto my field barrel I use for concrete work. I am doing three full flushes with the prestone cleaner in between - for a few days.

I dreaded the drain knob being stuck but was fortunate, easy hand tight and loosen. Thought about removing for inspection but left well enough alone. that is a no look hidden hole. A couple of turns only and removing the fill cap, about a 5 min drain. About 9 lts came out.
 

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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
... I am doing three full flushes with the prestone cleaner in between - for a few days.

...
Not that you asked...

If the coolant has been changed on schedule, I would not use the cleaner. That is especially true for an extra long soak. Some cleaners have been reported to cause more problems than they avoid.

:2cents: vic
 

white whale

Member
Not that you asked...

If the coolant has been changed on schedule, I would not use the cleaner. That is especially true for an extra long soak. Some cleaners have been reported to cause more problems than they avoid.

:2cents: vic
If Prestone was in the rad making business I'd have pause to consider. All seems to fine so far.
I'd actually never heard of this stuff before. It did give options for quick 10 min rinse/flush or you could let it slosh around for a few days. Reservoir had a good head of foam on it from first bottle.

I had no engine history on the first 250K so a fresh point for me. dead easy with the permanent drain tube. Good way to find out from my other post on whether the coolant level sensor is hooped is confirmed. Yes.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
... Reservoir had a good head of foam on it from first bottle.

...
That can be an indication of chemical reaction. My question is whether that foam is a result of corrosion/crud being cleaned, or aluminum or other coolant system parts being corroded/eroded away. Or maybe it's just caused by a surfactant type cleaner. I have no data.

Short soak vs long soak? Don't solicit opinions on the internet. If you chose to use the product my recommendation is to follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter.

:cheers: vic
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
My general approach with an unknown system, is to drain it first. Then with the drain open, direct a stream of a hose nozzle into the radiator. The goal is to dislodge any crud that has built up at the bottom of the radiator. In some cases back flushing this way into the drain for sort period. catch what comes out. If it looks like mud or dirty pond water, a full flush is likely called for. If not, I would just refill and keep on trucking.
 

eranrund

Active member
Excellent information here, thanks everyone!
I'm still pondering about the coolant color differences. The coolant I have (of unknown origin and history) green. Would draining it (through the radiator red drain thingie) and replacing with distilled water, running a temperature cycle, draining again and filling with G05 50/50 be the best way towards replacing this unknown coolant?
 
Excellent information here, thanks everyone!
I'm still pondering about the coolant color differences. The coolant I have (of unknown origin and history) green. Would draining it (through the radiator red drain thingie) and replacing with distilled water, running a temperature cycle, draining again and filling with G05 50/50 be the best way towards replacing this unknown coolant?
Yes but also flush with hose as mentioned. May have to dig a little in this thread a write up w/ pics I posted that may also help you.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Only true hard water is a concern, water thats nasty to drink. If you are just rinsing, it doesn't matter anyways. The vast majority of tap water in the USA is less than 500ppm, so the impact on the coolant life is insignificant.
 

eranrund

Active member
If I wanted to avoid the garden hose, do I just need to drain additionally from the engine block by opening the hex drain bolt underneath it? Or are there other places?
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
If I wanted to avoid the garden hose, do I just need to drain additionally from the engine block by opening the hex drain bolt underneath it? Or are there other places?
Well you will have great fun pulling out dhat plug --Mikel --says the Irish leprechaun-Hope yah has a new one in the kitchen drawer "tab be sure" !

Better to pull the hose off aft of the cooler at the block stub.
Get yourself a new S hose (they are a few pence--Not dat White House Mikel) because it will need to be cut! Its held on by a Scotsman's grip on a three penny bit!. And that's why it has sides on it like a hex nut --You need a wrench to get it out of his hand.:lol:
Dennis

https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo/three-pence-coin.html
 

ke4rop

New member
I've got a problem with the engine block coolant drain. I opened it and some coolant came out. I tightened it back down, but it still leaks a big stream when I try to fill the radiator. So, I have tried to remove the plug to check for debris, and it will loosen a couple of turns before it refuses to turn anymore and can't be removed. I've tightened back up and loosened several cycles but nothing is changing. I could get more aggressive, but I don't know how it is assembled and don't want to damage anything. Anyone have any ideas? How does it seal? O-ring? Metal to metal contact? Thanks for any help.
 

Kbonk

Member
The original factory installed engines have a hex bolt with a seal ring under the hex head (on drivers side toward rear of engine).

Interestingly the factory replacement rebuilt engines have a nipple fitting which works like a brake bleed nipple. All blocks have an internal seat which can accommodate a tapered seat for a bleed nipple design, but only the Mopar/MBenz rebuilds take advantage of this.

Doktor A
Do you know where the 10mm block drain can be found?
 

calbiker

Well-known member
Decided to drain coolant for the first time. Unfortunately the red drain knob snapped off. I didn't apply much pressure at all. What's the best alternative? Just remove a lower hose to drain?
 

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