Not that you asked...... I am doing three full flushes with the prestone cleaner in between - for a few days.
If Prestone was in the rad making business I'd have pause to consider. All seems to fine so far.Not that you asked...
If the coolant has been changed on schedule, I would not use the cleaner. That is especially true for an extra long soak. Some cleaners have been reported to cause more problems than they avoid.
That can be an indication of chemical reaction. My question is whether that foam is a result of corrosion/crud being cleaned, or aluminum or other coolant system parts being corroded/eroded away. Or maybe it's just caused by a surfactant type cleaner. I have no data.... Reservoir had a good head of foam on it from first bottle.
Yes but also flush with hose as mentioned. May have to dig a little in this thread a write up w/ pics I posted that may also help you.Excellent information here, thanks everyone!
I'm still pondering about the coolant color differences. The coolant I have (of unknown origin and history) green. Would draining it (through the radiator red drain thingie) and replacing with distilled water, running a temperature cycle, draining again and filling with G05 50/50 be the best way towards replacing this unknown coolant?
Well you will have great fun pulling out dhat plug --Mikel --says the Irish leprechaun-Hope yah has a new one in the kitchen drawer "tab be sure" !If I wanted to avoid the garden hose, do I just need to drain additionally from the engine block by opening the hex drain bolt underneath it? Or are there other places?
Do you know where the 10mm block drain can be found?The original factory installed engines have a hex bolt with a seal ring under the hex head (on drivers side toward rear of engine).
Interestingly the factory replacement rebuilt engines have a nipple fitting which works like a brake bleed nipple. All blocks have an internal seat which can accommodate a tapered seat for a bleed nipple design, but only the Mopar/MBenz rebuilds take advantage of this.