Fuel Pressure Issue - Fuel rail pressure regulator?!

Hi guys,
My van has been ticking for a bit. Sounded like almost like a valve was ticking or something. I brought it to the dealer a couple times and they told me not to worry about it. The fuel gauge wasn't working and one code that came up from my scanner was this;
Code: 131E00 - Rail pressure deviation due to air forming in the system when the fuel tank is run empty. (It actually didn't run empty but I assumed it might has something to do with the fuel gauge not working)

Yesterday I was driving up Mont-Washington, the van stalled and wouldn't start again. Pulled over and scanned the codes;
11B600 - The minimum rail pressure was dropped below/not reached.
11B800 - The control deviation during rail pressure regulation via the quantity control valve is too high.
11B900 - The control deviation during rail pressure regulation via the quantity control valve is too high.
11BB00 - The rail pressure is too low during regulation via the quantity control valve.
11BE00 - The control deviation during rail pressure regulation via the quantity control valve is too high.
131E00 - Rail pressure deviation due to air forming in the system when the fuel tank is run empty.

After I tried to start the vehicle 2-3 times, I scanned it again and this one also came up;
155700 - Engine cannot be started (Blocking)

Since it seems like there's some much incoherences around the control valve. I was thinking to start by changing that, the dealer is asking ~$400 CAD for it. Should I pull the trigger and start with that or any other recommendations.

Vehicle:
Sprinter 2012 3.0L Turbo diesel, 170 wheelbase
DEF, EGR delete with malone tune
95 000 kms

Thanks,
Eric
 
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bcislander

'07 Mercedes-badged Dodge
Sure would be nice to have some details on your vehicle. Not too many on this Forum that can read minds via the Internet.
 

manwithgun

Unknown member
It’s a 17mm that fits the fuel line nut @injector. This needs to be loose to remove the rail if that’s you approach. Standard wrenches will not work so you’ll need the specific crows foot socket or modified offset box wrench. Standard 18mm wrench works on the rail itself. Rail pressure sensor and regulator problems can also be caused by faulty pin connections at the sensor or in the harness where it plugs into the ecu. You can sometimes test for this by unplugging the sensors and ecu harness several times (with the power/neg post disconnected) and see if your condition changes.

Also, the factory Xentry scanner allows for the pressure regulator to be initialized but there’s some debate as to whether it is necessary.
B6515CD7-A052-4790-8296-A8814A9E0762.png6C46769D-CB66-48F9-A2DA-63B29D47720E.png
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
No no!
To remove the regulator in situ you need a 27mm crows foot socket or for a bit tighter fit 1"& 1/16 both 3/8 drive.
Looks something like this:-
Dennis
 

manwithgun

Unknown member
No no!
To remove the regulator in situ you need a 27mm crows foot socket or for a bit tighter fit 1"& 1/16 both 3/8 drive.
Looks something like this:-
Dennis
Correct! I thought he was going to pull the rail and do it in a vise. Up until recently, MB only sold the regulator as part of the entire rail. I have noticed that suppliers like Europarts SD now sell the thread on regulator and sensor on their own for a bigg cost savings. Any advise on a whether threadlock should be used and what type?
 
Correct! I thought he was going to pull the rail and do it in a vise. Up until recently, MB only sold the regulator as part of the entire rail. I have noticed that suppliers like Europarts SD now sell the thread on regulator and sensor on their own for a bigg cost savings. Any advise on a whether threadlock should be used and what type?
Thank you soo much for you help guys. Will I need the 1-3/8" and the 1-1/16" or just one of them. Just making sure since I saw the link was a different size then the one firstly recommended.

They actually only sells the whole package with the fuel rail but initially when I was getting a quote. They mistake the sensor for the regulator... Amazon has just the regulator instead of having the buy the whole fuel rail for $1800-2000 but I'll have to wait a week or two. I didn't order the sensor since I was hearing a ticking and I assumed it was only the regulator that was faulty.
 
I received the regulator today and after spending a couple hours installing it. The van won’t start, the Rail Pressure is showing 224 to 259 PSI.

Here’s the code it’s showing now:
13AE00 - The heater for the crankcase ventilation system has a fault at the output stage.
90A6 - Fuel Tank Sensor Short Circuit To Positive or Line Break.

Could it be the high pressure pump?
 
UPDATE:
Apparently what happened was that the pump from the fuel tank was working intermittently, which caused the High Pressure pump to run dry and seize. When this unlikely event happened, it grenaded the camshaft and sent gear teeth and metal shredding all over the engine like P-diddy throwing dollar bills on the dance floor of a strip club. This seems to be racking up a mechanic bill as expensive as P-Diddy's night @ the exotic dancers club.
 

Attachments

Oh yes an XTREME Wallet flush for sure !
Dennis
The dealership is recommending an engine rebuild or new engine. Do you think changing the HP pump, camshafts, flushing the engine, dropping the oil pan, cleaning up all remaining residue could be a reasonable alternative if the piston did get in contact with the valves?
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
NOPE??
What is that in the English language.

No Other Possible Explanations??
OK we have fixed a few of these (three successfully) one ultimately a mechanical disaster and it prompted me to post that "sticky" on HPOP pump bolts.
By itself its not a big deal, the pinion is a separate integral part of the inlet cam on the even bank of the engine..
In theory its just remove the engine and replace the cam, maybe a used /new head(s) rebuild it with a new HPOP..

The real issue is debris!
Job #1 is to go fishing & find all the broken teeth etc.

Often getting scattered inside the timing chest, these fragments damage the timing sprockets and even the chain itself.
One specimen we fixed had the chain oiler snapped off, which is basically the end plug of the main oil gallery.
Its not available separately and you cannot remove it anyway!
In that case we copied the oiler stub in the machine shop and threaded it into the block.
Really the damage was done when it first got busted off & there was a loss of oil pressure enough to cause main/rod bearing oil starvation issues which caused a seizure about 50 miles after the rework!
Lesson learned on that score!

So its an ad hoc repair easily fixed (famous last words ) if all the stars are in alignment but I can see why a dealer /Pro Shop would recommend an engine.
In fact GM recommends the same with a V6 gasoline engine in current production should the gear driven vacuum pump takes a similar dump.
Due to contingent fragmentation related issues -change the engine.
Dennis
 
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TooMuchHair

Active member
The dealership is recommending an engine rebuild or new engine. Do you think changing the HP pump, camshafts, flushing the engine, dropping the oil pan, cleaning up all remaining residue could be a reasonable alternative if the piston did get in contact with the valves?
I would remind them about telling you "Not to worry about it." "A couple of times?
 

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