For self-installers of Espar Furnaces

VanGoSki

Well-known member
We always order the Espar fitted by Mercedes in the original order! It comes wired in to the computer and control buttons are on the dash! also comes with connection to engine coolant and also has the option of built in radiators around the van!
You're describing the Sprinter hydronic heater options. This thread is actually about the Espar D2 air heater which isn't a factory option.
 

PictureMeFree

2019 170 ext 4 x 4
You probably just need to keep trying to get all the air bled out of the fuel connection. It can take many starts over a day or two to get it going the first time.
Is there no way to prime the fuel line before initial start? I’ll be installing mine next week and have been wondering about this, as it seems many have this issue on initial installation.
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Is there no way to prime the fuel line before initial start? I’ll be installing mine next week and have been wondering about this, as it seems many have this issue on initial installation.
A small 9 volt battery can be used to test the pump so why not to prime it?

Pulse the pump connections across a 9 volt battery and the pump should deliver a small quantity of fuel for every pulse.

Note the pump is NOT to be permanently connected to 12 volts!

Keith.
 

GHansen

Dangerous, yes, but mainly to himself
lucky you got all that exhaust pipe. I got just enough to route under the slider which was def not my preference. did you set yours up with the temperature sensor? i have the easy start controller and had heard it had a built in temp sensor but after finishing my install today i can only get the fan going, sans heat.
The D2L with the Easy Start Pro controller (with the rotary dial on the front) is plug-and-play, other Airtronic versions/controllers could be different. As was mentioned, your lack of heat could well be a fuel priming issue. IIRC it took about 30 minutes and 3-4 fuel supply error codes before fuel reached my heater and it got going. I was starting to think I'd need to prime it manually but it eventually worked. Starts up every time now. :)
 

bsqr

Member
I have installed the S3 hydronic unit, but not started it up yet. I followed the instructions/diagrams carefully and believe I have the correct orientation for both my water pump and fuel pump, but all the talk about multiple starts initially, priming and clearing codes is definitely intimidating me. In reviewing all the documentation I have and have found online, I see absolutely nothing detailing a recommended start up procedure. I have the Easy Start Pro control unit. Does anyone know of any startup documentation for this configuration?
 

bsqr

Member
IIRC it took about 30 minutes and 3-4 fuel supply error codes before fuel reached my heater and it got going. I was starting to think I'd need to prime it manually but it eventually worked. Starts up every time now. :)
GHansen - What did you do to clear the supply error codes? I see the manual says to press the operating button on the easy start pro, but is that all that is necessary to attempt a restart?
 
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PictureMeFree

2019 170 ext 4 x 4
Note the pump is NOT to be permanently connected to 12 volts!
did you mean the pump is not to be permanently connected to 9 volts?

that’s the only part of your reply that caught me off guard. The part about using a 9 v battery to prime the line sounds like a good solution to the problem I am hoping to solve. Thank you!
 

PictureMeFree

2019 170 ext 4 x 4
Correct, and certainly NOT 12 volts.
please pardon my misunderstanding because I must be missing something simple...

is there something in the Espar, or the included wiring, that converts the 12 volt power supply from the house batteries before it gets to the fuel pump?

how else would the pump not be permanently connected to 12 volt power?

Please pardon my ignorance if I’m missing something basic.. 😐

Are you simply saying not to permanently connect an *additional* 12 v supply, other than the 12 v power delivered by the Espar’s wiring?

another thought: some Espar units are 24 volts and some are 12 volt. Mine is a 12 volt version...
 
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Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
The pump does not run continuously but is a 'Dosing' pump which delivers an exact quantity of fuel every time a pulse of power is delivered. The ECU in the Espar controls the speed of these pulses and hence the volume of fuel delivered depending on the heat output of the heater. You should hear the pump 'ticking' when it is operating correctly, slowly at first and faster as the heater ramps up.
 

Built.Vans

'19 4x4
Is there no way to prime the fuel line before initial start? I’ll be installing mine next week and have been wondering about this, as it seems many have this issue on initial installation.
Youre trying to solve a problem that is not really a problem. Just hook it up, turn it on, let it error out, clear the error and try again until it starts up. Everyone who installs these goes through the same process. It only took 2 attempts to get going for me. I ended up rerunning my fuel line to the heater after my initial install and both times it took 2 attempts for the fuel line to be fully primed and the heater to start running.
 

erldrums

2006 tin long tall 2500
ok, not sure if this is airtronic thread or hydronic?..but, my question is, has anybody retro fitted a new s3 economy hydronic into an Old 2006 tin with 7 day timer etc?
erl
 

PictureMeFree

2019 170 ext 4 x 4
what size hole saw is best to drill through the floor for the intake and exhaust ports on the bottom of the heater? The ports are 1” diameter. Unsure if 1”, 1 1/8”, or 1 1/4” would be best. Thanks in advance for your thoughts/ experience.
 

VanGoSki

Well-known member
what size hole saw is best to drill through the floor for the intake and exhaust ports on the bottom of the heater? The ports are 1” diameter. Unsure if 1”, 1 1/8”, or 1 1/4” would be best. Thanks in advance for your thoughts/ experience.
Pretty sure I used a 1". Keep in mind that variances in the alignment of your drilling might require enlarging the hole a bit. This is a perfect application for a step drill. The kit comes with a rubber gasket, so no need to go crazy trying to minimize the hole size. Some people add RTV or whatnot to further seal, but if you're mounting to a flat surface then I personally don't see the need for it. Others may disagree.
 

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