What would kill a ScanGauge?

Nate.evans

Member
I have an electrical gremlin that shows up every once in a blue moon. It resets my radio to stock settings. Only happens when I go to turn the car on and I notice my EQ is back to flat and all the presets are gone. It’s almost like disconnecting the battery, but I know power is never interrupted because the clock on the dash is still correct. Something is happening either when I turn off the vehicle or when I’m about to start it because it’s never happened when driving only when I go to get back in the car. No blown fuses or odd noises. It’s almost like roulette of not knowing if it happens when I start the car. Doesn’t affect ho the car starts or runs.

At first I thought it was just a shoddy radio connection, but it’s happened twice and both times it’s killed the ScanGuage to where it won’t work anymore, I have to get a new one.

any usual suspects?
 

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING
Hey Nate, remove clean and replace IMG_4547.JPGQuick disconnect stud.
 

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING

Mike DZ

2016 View 24V (2015 3500)
both times it’s killed the ScanGuage to where it won’t work anymore, I have to get a new one.
I'm not suggesting you abuse it, but your SGII has a 3 year warranty. Go to the contact page https://www.scangauge.com/about/contact-us/ and let them know what is going on and when you bought it. They have been very good to work with from my perspective.
 

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING
I second their customer Service. Yes, ask Jeff DeLong. He has an email best way.
 

Nate.evans

Member
Well, I really don’t wanna go that route. Replacing scangauges would be frustrating and not really fixing the issue at hand lol. Good to know though.

Bob, battery posts are clean and snug. I’ll check the quick disconnect post. But it doesn’t reset the clock on the dash, suggesting that it’s never losing power. When the scan gauge is connected, my voltage is also pretty steady at 13.2-13.4V if that matters.
 

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING

showkey

Well-known member
Engine running or engine off? Engine running voltage should be 14.0 V plus or minus 0.1 V
^^^^^^^^^^Agree^^^^^^^^. Which suggests “Y cable“, engine ground cable, other loose or corroded connections, failing alternator, ( aftermarket replacement alternator Comm issue you ECU). All above might explain the low voltage but not the scan failure. Over voltage ( +16-20 v spike) from failing alternator or bad connection/ Open circuit might take out the scan gauge.

OP did I miss the year and model and mileage ?
 

Nate.evans

Member
Sorry. 2010 3.0L V6, cargo 144wb with 72k miles. Sorry, fat fingers, voltage reads 13.5-13.7v when running so yeah, still a LITTLE low.

Not a stock radio. Has aftermarket radio, amp, speakers and subwoofer.
 

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING
IMG_4220.PNGI have insufficient clues. Post # 9 cannot be overemphasized.

The only thing I can suggest is scrupulously clean and treat each connector common to aftermarket radio.

The jiggle test is actually a bona fide test inumerated it in the 2007 service manual. Jiggle suspect wires to duplicate issue.

You need to buy some of this.
 
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Nate.evans

Member
View attachment 155097I have insufficient clues. Post # 9 cannot be overemphasized.

The only thing I can suggest is scrupulously clean and treat each connector common to aftermarket radio.

The jiggle test is actually a bona fide test inumerated it in the 2007 service manual. Jiggle suspect wires to duplicate issue.

You need to buy some of this.
Gonna head out and go get some now...I’ll report back probably tomorrow cause the sun is going down and I’ll run out of daylight.

no other electrical issues *knocks on wood* other than this.
 

Nate.evans

Member
Nobody had that specific contact cleaner but they did have the CRC aerosol spray cleaner.

Alright, battery terminals were pristine. All connections were solid.

The quick disconnect by the gas pedal had VERY SLIGHT brown discoloration on the last thread and face/bottom of bolt. Cleaned and reinstalled.

Idle voltage still shows ~13.4 idling.


Odd thing though, during all of that, the radio didn’t reset to factory settings...I can tell because not only of the time still being correct, but the radio presets are still there...however, the dash did reset the time to 12am....

safe to assume the drain is likely the radio?
 

Attachments

Mike DZ

2016 View 24V (2015 3500)
If you are getting 13.4 when running, you have a significant problem. Unlike Chevies, which will start at 15.2, then drop to 14.7 and then down to 13.4 when running, a Sprinter should read 14.0, 13.9, 14.1, 14.0, 13.9, 14.0, etc

That said, I don't think the aftermarket radio is pulling it down that far. I agree with Showkey's comments. Google "Y cable" on the forum.
 

bcislander

'07 Mercedes-badged Dodge
A low system voltage can cause multiple fault codes as well as resulting in a battery that is never fully charged.
A voltage below 14.0V usually indicates a faulty Y-Cable and/or engine to chassis ground strap.

Replace the Y-Cable and/or ground strap if the system voltage is below ~14.0V.

A few relevant Y-Cable search results:



 

Nate.evans

Member
Awesome. Thanks. I’ll check it out today. There’s no codes being thrown at this point.
 
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Nate.evans

Member
Ordered the part from the local sprinter dealer/shop, part 9064401641. Guy said they revised it since the one that’s been installed on my van from the factory?

They want $225 in labor for install. After looking at the other threads on people replacing it, doesn’t seem like it would be that difficult???? Then again, if they want $225 for labor on that, am I missing something other than that 13mm nut on the alternator being blind access from the bottom?
 

4wheeldog

2018 144" Tall Revel
Before you get too deep, check voltage at the alternator. If it is 14.0, it is a bad Y cable, a bad ground or another bad connection.
If you only have 13.5 at the alternator, it looks like a bad alternator.
 

Nate.evans

Member
Replaced the Y cable. Took 45 minutes, most of that time being getting those zip tie mounts pulled out. Really impressed with the Mercedes cable having the zip tie mounts in EXACTLY the correct spot. I’m used to having those things a couple millimeters to few inches off on other brand cars, lol.

Van now has proper voltage on the ScanGuage....14.0, 14.1, 14.0, 14.2.....fingers crossed this ScanGuage doesn’t die as well now that voltage is correct.

thanks for all the help guys, it was really appreciated!!!
 

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