Om647 motor swap wont start all hooked up

[Travis06]

We have a 06 sprinter with om647 2.7 5cyl td....we bought ours with a thrown rod and hole in block...motor ran previous i was familiar with rig...

We bought a om647 with 127k miles had injectors in it no rail no hi flow pump...

-Mine sat with 1/2 tank of fuel for a year
-The new motor I have, I have no idea how long it sat at a guys place it was a backup motor for him

Everything is hooked up no codes cause it won't start.. cps is good, cam sensor is good mass is good...it kicks over rough .....

Here is what I see:
Unhooked line before filter from tank...pumps alot fine
Rail isn't leaking
No seals leaking
Replacing filter it was cheap incase there's water in system at all
Don't know the history of injectors on new motor or condition they may have been sitting for years.

RAIL PRESSURE-----
Don't know what it is till I get it started, what I do KNOW is....IF you try to start it it cranks a ton...turn it off...crack open an injector line "NO PRESSURE"..
It holds no line pressure omce turned off...it will leak when trying to start it out of every line that I leave loose to check for flow.(I cracked em open and turned it over fuel flows from all of the lines).....

So my thoughts are either its backpouring into tank or injector is leaking hence no pressure left in lines...And no bud up of pressure to start..


Any help is appreciated is their a programming thing im missing or ?????

I tried to research alot before I posted and this is where I am at...not to be ignorant I fabricate race trucks, cages , racks, crawlers etc.and non destructive testing so I'm not ignorant (not that I know lol thats ignorant) wrenching past an install or a hot rod is new to me so I am trying...but i need input...

Thanks in advance, Travis

 

[DRTDEVL]

Pull the EGR. If it is frozen wide open, it won't start.

 

[Travis06]

Ill do that right now....any input is appreciated and I hate asking but ill try and knock stuff ahead of time...ill let you know

 

[NelsonSprinter]

Did you program the ECU to acknowledge/marry the new motor and injectors ?

 

[Travis06]

Didnt know I was supposed to. Talked to a buddy at benz he said it should recognize the stuff...ill check injector codes to see...

 

[Hellshalfacre]

What's your cranking rpm? Or is the tach at least bouncing while cranking? Battery voltage while cranking? Brand new hp pump and rail, correct? And what scanner are you using?

 

[Travis06]

200 on rpm now it holds well
Battery is new and I'm hooking it up to my scout battery as well
Buddy used his snap on digital one it has the software to read and talk to the sprinter.. we could have set the injectors in it but were u.derthr b impression it didn't need it...

Pump isn't new nor is fuel rail they were both flawless....

 

[Hellshalfacre]

That scanner should be able to see cranking rail pressure, no?

 

[Travis06]

Yeah but he wasn't versed with it
That amd he wrenches gas rigs all day nit versed diesel and Cody is pretty burnt out even when i pay him....

 

[Hellshalfacre]

Rail pressure while cranking would be helpful for sure. With that you can rule out a large portion of the fuel system as your problem. Also any codes present after cranking which should be readable with that scanner. I'm not sure that injector coding would prevent the van from starting, but I'm sure someone will chime in with a correction if that isn't the case.

 

[Travis06]

No codes..it had some stored from before so I swapped out 3 and 5 glow plugs I checked em with a 12 volt and ground they are hot...the lead going to them is good as well full power to preheat..



Rail pressure and pressure after its turned off would allow me to see if its a high pressure, a solenoid on rail etc....it wants to run but it actls like a sensor is not allowing it or no fuel pressure...

The motor jumps around it has compression for sure lol...plenty


It isn't throwing any codes....it had some from before i believe stored even with a dead battery and swapping a new battery in...i cleared em the glow plug one came on for the 2 cylinders so I swapped those and nothing...no new codes

 

[Travis06]

worst part is its probably something stupid and simple...but I'm not knowledgeable enough to have that luxury yet its all foreign lol....so i guess this is a hell of a way to get my feet wet...good news is I take it around the country ill be comfortable working on it and know what everything is due to this crash course...so there is a bright side even though its not bright rigjt now...

 

[Travis06]

is there anyone here in san diego that can help possibly..obviously pay em something

 

[Zundfolge]

Off the top of my head I forget which they are, but aren't there are two plugs that can easily be crossed; i.e. they have the same connector? Can cause a no start? Remember reading that, and would be easy to have happen during a swap...

Also, you're certain you have fuel supply and return to/from pump hooked up in the right direction?

Rail pressure is needed here.

 

[Travis06]

Yea those hoses are right

.got almost 1/2 gallon of diesel on my head and clothes lol..if you can remember which plugs ill check

 

[jrod5150]

Off the top of my head I forget which they are, but aren't there are two plugs that can easily be crossed; i.e. they have the same connector? Can cause a no start? Remember reading that, and would be easy to have happen during a swap...

Also, you're certain you have fuel supply and return to/from pump hooked up in the right direction?

Rail pressure is needed here.

Fuel Quantity valve and the crankcase heater valve (think it’s called) front of the motor passenger side of the hpfp right by the dipstick tube, Hpfp should have the 90 degree angled plug, crankcase heater gets the straight one but I’ve never seen it cause a no start. You do not need to code the injectors to get the engine running. Snap on can probably do it but it’s a dead end. I’d say you have one or more bad injectors. If you swap your injectors you’ll probably be good. Since there was no fuel rail the lines have been open and exposed, probably debris or just dried up and stuck. I know you don’t want to change them lol I wouldn’t but I think that’s your fix. Unless of course the egr is stuck open as previously suggested. You could also try swapping your cam sensor from your old motor. You know it’s good and it’s much easier than swapping injectors. I’ve had bad cam sensors cause a no start without setting a code

 

[Travis06]

I will check on cam sensor i already pulled it and looked but I can swap it and check...i already lubed the injectors to try and pull them here in a day or so...

I apparently need new crush washers and oring sears when I swap them yes?

 

[Hellshalfacre]

New hold down bolts and new crush washers. They're cheap and must be renewed.

 

[jrod5150]

I will check on cam sensor i already pulled it and looked but I can swap it and check...i already lubed the injectors to try and pull them here in a day or so...

I apparently need new crush washers and oring sears when I swap them yes?

Looking at it doesn’t mean anything just swap it to eliminate it

 

[Travis06]

I went through glow plugs checked them all...hot in 7 sec or less...checked harmess has good current and heats em.up quick
Ill swap cam sensor and see...ilm check compression and try to find a way to check pressure on injectors