Ran low on fuel, engine stalled every 1-5 miles, changed fuel filter, still stalling.

Aldenso

Member
Alright, hopefully my final update:

I drove just under 200 miles without a hiccup after the second fuel filter was installed.
After installing it did stall a bunch of times while sitting, but then idled fine after a bunch of starts so I took it for a couple passes up and down the freeway, about 30 miles. I then let it idle in my driveway for about 15 minutes, and it didn't stall. I then drove to my destination 180 miles away.

I think I'm going to make an attempt at returning the filter that didn't work out for me. I'm also going to run some cleaner through out.

Thanks for the help everyone, I really appreciate it.

Edit: I forgot to mention, the codes all cleared themselves after I drove about 60 miles and shut off the engine.
 
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Aldenso

Member
So after 300 miles I'm stalling out again. I'm going to be replacing the fuel strainer sock.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks related to this?

Can I just clean the old one?

I stupidly haven't ordered a scanner yet, so I can't scan my codes. :doh:
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
There is no sock. It has a strainer.

...

I stupidly haven't ordered a scanner yet, so I can't scan my codes. :doh:
So upon what are you basing the need to drop the tank, remove the fuel module, and inspect the strainer? What if your fuel rail pressures are just fine as is?

:2cents: vic
 

Aldenso

Member
There is no sock. It has a strainer.


So upon what are you basing the need to drop the tank, remove the fuel module, and inspect the strainer? What if your fuel rail pressures are just fine as is?

:2cents: vic
I'm just guessing based on everyone recommendation of the fuel filter at first and then the fuel strainer.

You're saying to get my scanner first then come back with codes? Probably the smartest thing.

I'll order immediately and scan when I receive it, hopefully tomorrow.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
I'm just guessing based on everyone recommendation of the fuel filter at first and then the fuel strainer.

You're saying to get my scanner first then come back with codes? Probably the smartest thing.

I'll order immediately and scan when I receive it, hopefully tomorrow.
If the MIL aka CEL dash warning isn't lit there may not be any DTC's. You can use live data to check fuel rail pressure and other parameters to help narrow things down.

vic
 

Aldenso

Member
If the MIL aka CEL dash warning isn't lit there may not be any DTC's. You can use live data to check fuel rail pressure and other parameters to help narrow things down.

vic
There is a CEL.

Live data eh? Sounds fun. What would you recommend I do? I'm open to ideas and testing if you're willing to briefly explain what needs doing.

I'm ordering a scanner regardless, as I know I'll need it down the road.
 

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING
Retrace your steps.
You said this occurred after replacing the fuel filter, you got the right fuel filter, did you use the right clamps?

Maybe the the tank is loaded with algae or crud, and re-contaminated the filter?

If recently purchased the vehicle, I'll probably drop the tank. Who knows what people have been putting in it.

Need scanner.
History of vehicle?
Length of ownership?
Location of operation?
Miles?

 

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING
For accurate applicability, it may be best to source parts from dealership. Don't use existing filter as an example because it it could've been wrong.

Verify fuel filter applicability and then check again.

 

Aldenso

Member
Retrace your steps.
You said this occurred after replacing the fuel filter, you got the right fuel filter, did you use the right clamps?

Maybe the the tank is loaded with algae or crud, and re-contaminated the filter?

If recently purchased the vehicle, I'll probably drop the tank. Who knows what people have been putting in it.

Need scanner.
History of vehicle?
Length of ownership?
Location of operation?
Miles?

It started happening with the fuel filter that was in the van when I bought it, ~15 miles after the low fuel light came on. Before that I had driven about 1500 miles with zero issues. The other filter was ancient.

I then got a fuel filter that was recommended in a fuel filter thread, kept stalling. I then got a cheap fuel filter from napa and it ran fine for 300 miles.

History unknown for last 120k miles, guy I bought it from said all he did was oil changes and a diff fluid change. Before him and up to 60k mi was service by the book.

When I got the van I changed the oil and transmission fluid, ball joints, and brakes.

I've owned it for a few thousand miles, which were flawless until that fuel light came on.

Van running in southern Ontario, Canada, current mileage 183,000.

The only "issue" when I got the van was a glow plug light that has been on since the first owner (he took it in numerous times to fix and it never cleared, even after replacing the plugs). This is documented in the first owners records.
 

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING
Need to do a compete fluid service. Maybe the engine a couple of times. People lie, people are cheap. Epecially if they plan on selling the vehicle.
 

Aldenso

Member
Need to do a compete fluid service. Maybe the engine a couple of times. People lie, people are cheap. Epecially if they plan on selling the vehicle.
Yes, I've also been meaning to run some injector cleaner through.

I have ordered the scanner, so that's an exciting purchase. I got the md808 pro. I guess I'm on hold until it arrives Sunday.
 
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autostaretx

Erratic Member
You can also stick a (garden?) hose down the fuel filler pipe to pull a sample from the bottom of the tank.
(do NOT inhale to start the flow ... diesel is not good for you at all)
$5 at a "dollar store" can get you a "transfer fuel" pump-and-hoses gadget

SiphonPump.jpg

If the fuel is sludgy and messy ... well ... you've found the root cause.

--dick
 
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Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
You have a CEL. That means there will be DTC's. Rather than getting ahead of yourself why don't you get the scan tool in hand, scan for DTC's and see where that heads you. Anything else at this point is just guessing. You've been doing that already.

The rollover anti spill valve in the filler neck may make it more difficult to get a siphon tube down into the tank than people anticipate.

vic
 

Aldenso

Member
You have a CEL. That means there will be DTC's. Rather than getting ahead of yourself why don't you get the scan tool in hand, scan for DTC's and see where that heads you. Anything else at this point is just guessing. You've been doing that already.

The rollover anti spill valve in the filler neck may make it more difficult to get a siphon tube down into the tank than people anticipate.

vic
Good point, I will wait for the scanner which is coming Sunday apparently.

Thanks again for all the quick help from everyone, I very much appreciate it.

I'll be back when I have codes.
 

Aldenso

Member
Ok so I'm back with codes.

Codes are as follows:

P0652 - Sensor Voltage B circuit Low
P2146 - Fuel injector group A circuit open
P0205 - Injector circuit open cylinder 5
P0380 - Glow plug/ heater circuit A malfunction
P0672 - Cylinder 2 glow plug circuit fault
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug circuit fault

The codes were cleared, and upon start up the last 3 codes popped up immediately.

I know that I had a lingering glow plug code, but I am not sure which one it was, or if it was even all three. The mechanic that originally scanned it didn't say, he just told me there was a glow plug code, and until I have trouble starting not to worry about it due to the difficulty of pulling plugs. The first owner had replaced several glow plugs, according to his records, and he did them to try to fix the light, but it never solved it. The light is intermittent.

Am I looking for some faulty wiring?

I will have a better scanner Sunday (hopefully) which I think could give me some more details.

If anyone has any guidance from here that would be great.

Thanks.
 

Hellshalfacre

2005, 2500
There have been some reports of the injector harness shorting on the valve cover and causing both the codes you're seeing and intermittent stalling issues. I think cyls 1, 3 and 4 are one "group" and 2 and 5 are the other but can't remember which one is "A" and "B". If pulling the harness seems like too big a lift at the moment you could try sliding a long piece of thin insulating material between the legnth of the harness and valve cover and see if this helps or corrects your problem. I want to say someone posted a video about this. I'll see if I can find it.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
I see no DTC's that relate to fuel pressure with the possible exception of P0652. (I didn't look it up.)

It is highly unlikely that any glow plug related DTC's are contributing to your present problem.

Ok so I'm back with codes.

Codes are as follows:

P0652 - Sensor Voltage B circuit Low
P2146 - Fuel injector group A circuit open
P0205 - Injector circuit open cylinder 5
...
Hey, I'm back with another question.

So I recently ran my 2006 sprinter tank down until the light came on. I went about 15 miles with the light on and the engine died, clean stall no sputtering.
...
The OM647 will continue to run if only one injector circuit has problems. Of course that can depend upon upon the specific type of problem.

The "Fuel injector group A circuit open" may be giving a clue. "Group" would suggest that more than one injector can be affected. In that case it would cause an engine shutdown. Probably without any sputtering.

There is a history of the wiring harness developing problems in the area of the fuel filter. Maybe you have a harness problem that got disturbed to the good during the fuel filter change. That is a suggestion, not a diagnosis.

Lacking any more specific information my suggestion would be to carefully visually inspect the harness(es). If that doesn't reveal anything remove the black plastic injector cover to visually inspect the wiring under the cover. All looks good? Carefully remove, inspect, and re-install every injector electrical connector. Make certain each one is properly reseated. Even if everything looks good during a visual inspection, just the R&R of the injector connectors may help any wonky connection go away.

Until you have more info that is my input.

vic
 
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Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING
 

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING
Write on the chalkboard -00 times

Multiple codes could be indicative of faulty grounds.

The last paragraph

"In the real estate business, there’s an old saying about the three most important things that determine the value of a property: location, location, location.

In automotive diagnosis, we’ve come to the conclusion
that a similar statement should be etched in the mind of everybody who works on cars. What’s crucial here are basics, basics, basics. taking it one step further into electrical troubleshooting, and you could phrase it grounds, grounds, grounds."


 

Aldenso

Member
Very great information. Thank you so much everyone, I really appreciate all the info. Unfortunately the sun is setting, so I'll be getting after it tomorrow morning.

I'm eager to figure this out. I'll be after it as soon as I wake up.

Thanks again everyone. You guys are the best.

I'll report back with any findings.
 

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