T1n brake/wheel free spin. (brake issues)

awesome guys
thankyou so much.

thinking back. the caliper did NOT go on smoothly. it was EXTREMELY tight when the pads were in. the pistons were pretty worse for wear, so im assuming they aren't retracting the correct amount and keeping brake pressure on the pads/rotors.

I ordered a reconditioned caliper from europarts.

once installed, i plan on doing the gravity fed brake bleed method. as it seems to be the most simple, tho long. also with such an old brake system, i am hesitant to bleed/flush the brakes using the brake pedal (traditional) method as i don't want to burn out the parts that can burn out from going past their normal length. (i know that's vague, but i read about it last night).

with the gravity fed method, my understanding is......

place tube on bleeder valve, and run that to a container for draining. open bleeder valve. open brake fluid reservoir above the engine under the hood. moniter the level of brake fluid in reservoir and don't allow to go too low. I plan on doing the front two brakes at the same time.

My question is, does this have to be done on a flat surface? or can I have my van facing down my driveway at an angle.

i ordered dot4+ from europarts as well. I'm assuming because this was a fedex van, they maintained using correct fluids, and thus no fear of mixing with some random dot fluid.
 

BrennWagon

He’s just this guy, you know?
awesome guys
thankyou so much.

thinking back. the caliper did NOT go on smoothly. it was EXTREMELY tight when the pads were in. the pistons were pretty worse for wear, so im assuming they aren't retracting the correct amount and keeping brake pressure on the pads/rotors.

I ordered a reconditioned caliper from europarts.

once installed, i plan on doing the gravity fed brake bleed method. as it seems to be the most simple, tho long. also with such an old brake system, i am hesitant to bleed/flush the brakes using the brake pedal (traditional) method as i don't want to burn out the parts that can burn out from going past their normal length. (i know that's vague, but i read about it last night).

with the gravity fed method, my understanding is......

place tube on bleeder valve, and run that to a container for draining. open bleeder valve. open brake fluid reservoir above the engine under the hood. moniter the level of brake fluid in reservoir and don't allow to go too low. I plan on doing the front two brakes at the same time.

My question is, does this have to be done on a flat surface? or can I have my van facing down my driveway at an angle.

i ordered dot4+ from europarts as well. I'm assuming because this was a fedex van, they maintained using correct fluids, and thus no fear of mixing with some random dot fluid.
Doing it that way should be reasonably simple but I would recommend buying a cheap vacuum bleeder. It makes the job much quicker and it’s a handy tool to have.
 
Doing it that way should be reasonably simple but I would recommend buying a cheap vacuum bleeder. It makes the job much quicker and it’s a handy tool to have.
thanks for the recomendation. when using a vacuum bleeder, do i take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir before, or only after i have bled the brakes and will refill?
 

marklg

Well-known member
I had good luck with a Motive Power Bleeder.



Regards,

Mark
 

BrennWagon

He’s just this guy, you know?
thanks for the recomendation. when using a vacuum bleeder, do i take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir before, or only after i have bled the brakes and will refill?
I generally only open the reservoir cap when I’m adding brake fluid, but that’s mostly just to keep myself from losing it. Either way should be fine
 

Alphacarina

2006 Itasca Navion 23H
i ordered dot4+ from europarts as well. I'm assuming because this was a fedex van, they maintained using correct fluids, and thus no fear of mixing with some random dot fluid.
You should suck all the old fluid out of the master cylinder before you start and fill it with new fluid. Then by the time you're done bleeding, all the old fluid in the system will be gone and you will have it all filled with new fluid - You might need more than 1 quart of fluid to do a complete change

Don
 

marklg

Well-known member
The T1N filter screen inside the reservoir neck is quite tough to remove. Given the age of our vans, it might be worth the risk of damage to remove it.
It is easily damaged and available from a dealer. Yes, they charge for shipping even if you pick it up.

Part Number​
Part Name​
Price​
Quantity​
Total​
000-431-43-34​
Reservoir Assembly Screen​
$6.16​
1​
$6.16​
Subtotal: $6.16​
Estimated Shipping: $4.85​
Total: $11.01​

Regards,

Mark
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
...

I ordered a reconditioned caliper from europarts.

...
Not that you asked...

I would replace both front calipers. If one is having problems it is highly likely the other is in similar condition. They see very similar service conditions.

There is no official DOT4+ brake fluid. The DOT designation is DOT 4.
DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 are all compatible (NOT DOT 5 = silicone). DOT 3 would not be recommended except in an emergency. (It is fine for short term.) DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 can be substituted for long(er) periods of time without problem.


:2cents: vic
 
Not that you asked...

I would replace both front calipers. If one is having problems it is highly likely the other is in similar condition. They see very similar service conditions.

There is no official DOT4+ brake fluid. The DOT designation is DOT 4. DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 are all compatible (NOT DOT 5 = silicon). DOT 3 would not be recommended except in an emergency. (It is fine for short term.) DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 can be substituted for long(er) periods of time without problem.


:2cents: vic

there was a substantial difference between the two calipers on the van. passenger side was in pretty damn good shape. driver side was in terrible condition.
 
ill have to replace the other side soon, but at another time so they are on the same service interval. i haven't worked since march, here in ca. so already spread a bit thin with van expenditures.
 

Alphacarina

2006 Itasca Navion 23H
Not that you asked...

I would replace both front calipers. If one is having problems it is highly likely the other is in similar condition. They see very similar service conditions
+1 - Some things you always do in pairs to keep the system balanced. I would never change one of anything brake related (caliper, pads, rotor, etc) because I just think that's asking for more trouble down the line

It's tough being out of work, but trying to save a few bucks doing brake work often ends up costing you more in the long run

Don
 

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