Installing an Espar D2L with an AUX battery under the passenger seat

Revik

Member
You're welcome. You should do what you're comfortable with. However, in my opinion, the exhaust doesn't need to be routed out from under the van. I say this for the following reasons.

1) MB doesn't route the exhaust for the factory D5 heaters out from under the van. I have one of those too.
2) CO is almost exactly the same molecular weight as air. Therefore it dissipates in all directions. It won't tend to rise into the van excessively.
3) I have empirical evidence that the D2 generates little if any CO. I say this from running my van with side door open. When the D2 first starts, it has a stinky smell which goes away as it warms up. I can smell that inside with the door open and yet my CO detector has never read above 0. This is the same CO detector that detected measurable amounts of CO in my home from a generator running outside about 40' away through a garage, laundry room and through two doors that were cracked open for the AC cord to run though. Amazing how sensitive that gadget it. I ran my D2 all last winter and even had it turned on for 3 weeks on one cross country trip along with many 3-day mid-week ski trips.

Again, do what you're most comfortable with, but use a CO detector either way.
Agreed, CO detector is a must.
 

redgrom

Member
We made a new battery tray to shift the batter over, the factory tray uses 4 bolts and a clamp to hold the battery to the tray. This tray only uses the 2 left most bolts and reuse the factory clamp.

We'll be making these out of aluminum soon.
I know it’s an old post but did you ever make these out of aluminum? If so do you sell them?
 

49North

New member
If you have them available, I would also be interested in buying one. Can it fit in a factory swivel seat with the aux battery?
 

k6xlt

New member
Here's what I did with my install, based on the many useful tips in this thread and the other thread with the wiring diagram pic (most useful pic in the forum). It took me 4 tries before I got a mount I was ok with. I'm very comfortable working in wood, otherwise I would have crafted it out of aluminum - if I could have gotten the stock I wanted to work with (another time). It's an 18mm (3/4") piece of cabinet ply, shaped to fit the floor. I took a M8 plusnut and epoxied it to the base so I could reuse the stock mount. I milled corresponding shapes for the other side of the battery, and glued and screwed it together. Will follow up with the finished install once I work on the electrics.

Fuel pump mount is pretty typical and was straightforward. Does anyone know what one is supposed to do with the bracket (last pic) that comes with the kit? It looks like it could be mounted to one of the protruding M10s . . the other end seems to fit the pump bracket rather nicely.

Interesting the complete lack of information with the 'kit'. Much thanks to others that have contributed their wisdom and experience here.

New Battery tray.jpgNew battery tray bottom.jpgBat tray in place.jpgEspar fuel pump install.jpgEspar fuel pump bracket?.jpg
 
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k6xlt

New member
While installing my heater and removing the battery for repositioning, I was a little sloppy with removing the factory battery tray and managed to break the rubber grommet item identified as the Battery Vent in the above pic. Wished I hadn't - it's about 75USD from the local dealer. PN 910 545 11 00 in case anyone needs that.
 

k6xlt

New member
While installing my heater and removing the battery for repositioning, I was a little sloppy with removing the factory battery tray and managed to break the rubber grommet item identified as the Battery Vent in the above pic. Wished I hadn't - it's about 75USD from the local dealer. PN 910 545 11 00 in case anyone needs that.
On further investigation, one can't buy just the grommet. Have to purchase the entire battery tray . . well I don't need two battery trays . .
 

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