erik.wahlstrom
Active member
I believe the positive just goes to the driver seat F150 distribution block. From there it goes all over.
Yes, I removed the large power wire connected to it at the source underneath the driver's seat. No acc were connectedWhen you removed your accessory battery, did it have anything hooked up to it? did you chase the hook up cables back to the fuse box and remove them?
thanks - Nate
That's your diagnostics port. I wouldn't cut it off.Started the electrical. I have the Adventure Wagon kit. This mean I have a 10 gage wire already terminating in the seat base. This is good because the wire chase between the seats is stuffed. I did manage to pull the fuel pump through and out the driver side boot. However the power branch of the wiring harness includes a big fat plug.
View attachment 155120
As far as I can tell, the only thing this does is join the blue & blue-black wires. The power branch of the harness is WAY too long. I only need about 1'.
Question: Is it OK to cut this connector off, shorten the branch and just join the two wires together?
That's the CAN bus terminator. That's actually a resistor under that heat shrink, 120 ohms I believe. If you short it then no worky.Started the electrical. I have the Adventure Wagon kit. This mean I have a 10 gage wire already terminating in the seat base. This is good because the wire chase between the seats is stuffed. I did manage to pull the fuel pump through and out the driver side boot. However the power branch of the wiring harness includes a big fat plug.
View attachment 155120
As far as I can tell, the only thing this does is join the blue & blue-black wires. The power branch of the harness is WAY too long. I only need about 1'.
Question: Is it OK to cut this connector off, shorten the branch and just join the two wires together?
That makes sense. I know that plug on the end is a terminator, but I was wondering what the actual purpose of the port was.That's your diagnostics port. I wouldn't cut it off.
Question for you on that branch of the harness that goes up to the controller. There are also about seven other wires in the same loom without a connector on the end. Did you use any of those for anything?Managed to get the controller installed. Actually super easy. Worth noting that the default cable length is perfect to run up the B pillar back to just behind the slider. I’ll be able to reach the controller from the bed.
Yeah I did, there is power across the fuse and I tried another fuse and another slot. Oh well. I must have done something to the wire. I've got a second small fuse box in the passenger seat mounted and wired. I think I'll use the accessory post on the the Aux battery positive and the preinstalled ground in the passenger box and just run a wire to my fuse box. I have all the parts and I can avoid pulling up the channel cover. Plus all the fuses and wiring will be in the passenger base which means I can avoid pulling the driver seat for heater troubleshooting.Did you check for voltage across the fusebox connections for the circuit that go up to your seat base? Could be a bad fuse. The wire they use is very high quality, although it's possible you drilled a hole through it depending on the order you did things.
Where'd you get the tube insulation? I need some for my install but a quick google search didn't turn up anything like what you have in the photo.I should also say that one product I found worked fantastic. Silicone wrapped fiberglass tube insulation. It will protect the fuel line from heat and road debris too. View attachment 155778
I don’t. I just drilled 3 holes by following the included mounting plate, then sealed them with high temp silicone. Was actually really easy. That part is way more forgiving than I expected. There are lots of ways to do it.Do you have pics of how you ran the combustion intake & exhaust through the floor?
I like your idea of adding a ventilation hole to the seat base. Even if it's offset.
Mostly the mounting bracket for the heater. It works well and has good airflow. But it turned out to be overly complex. I thought I needed it but after I built a the battery bracket I think there is enough room to just mount the heater on the floor.Hey @erik.wahlstrom thx for looping me into this thread! I'd love to know what you'd do differently if you were to do it again; I've also got an aux pass batt.