Transmission won’t shift.

[altide8]

Agreed: if you over-tighten that little screw you can crack the plastic around the insert on the conductor plate. Not fun...

Dropping the pan and valve body is not without risk, but if you have a clean place to work it’s a straightforward process. You will want a torque wrench for the many bolts that clamp the solenoids and valve body together... 71 INCH pounds if memory serves?

-dave

I think it’s around 8nm so yeah 71 inch pounds sounds right.

 

[altide8]

So I replaced the transmission plug this afternoon. The only code I am getting is the p260f (overvoltage) This is the first time I have been able to clear the code and change the gears with the shift. I put it back in park then to drive again and it would not let me change gears anymore. Ran the codes again and sure enough, 260F is back.

 

[jrod5150]

So I replaced the transmission plug this afternoon. The only code I am getting is the p260f (overvoltage) This is the first time I have been able to clear the code and change the gears with the shift. I put it back in park then to drive again and it would not let me change gears anymore. Ran the codes again and sure enough, 260F is back.

You could pop the electrical side of the connector out quick to make sure you did the job correctly and it’s not sitting in oil

 

[altide8]

You could pop the electrical side of the connector out quick to make sure you did the job correctly and it’s not sitting in oil

Agreed. I think I’m going to do that when the rain lets up. Also can the supply voltage be checked when idling? I assume it can since the code is being thrown when idling. If the voltage coming into the trans is abnormal then I can assume I can look elsewhere. Tcm or charge system.

 

[Nautamaran]

If you are seeing 13.2 to 14.4 volts the alternator is probably fine and you should look at the TCM (unfortunately)

The sensors probably operate at 5 volts, and the TCM will have an internal regulator that supplies that 5v to the conductor plate (and other internal components).

A used TCM is an option, though you’ll want to use a dealer-level tool to reset the adaptation values that control smooth shifting.

-dave

 

[altide8]

So I was not fully sure how to test the voltage of the pins that are going into the transmission. I unplugged it and then started the van. I was barely getting any voltage on each pin .05??

More importantly. There was a little fluid on the plug. I cleaned it off, plugged things up, cleared the codes and they actually stayed gone. I did a test drive and all was well. I was able to shift manually and the van was changing gears normally. So does this mean the overvoltage code was because of the plug? Or could the tcm work at times then not work? I ask because, before it got dark I went out to check again and the 260F code was back.

 

[altide8]

You could pop the electrical side of the connector out quick to make sure you did the job correctly and it’s not sitting in oil

I think you are on to something. There was a little fluid on the plug. I guess I did not do the job correctly? It definitely seemed fully seated. Although I took it easy on the screw.

 

[altide8]

I cleaned the plug again and for the last 2 days the transmission has been shifting normally. No driving issues. No lights on the dash. I can shift manually. Although a 200a transmission code is stuck on? Anyone ever ran into this?

 

[Deleted member 50714]

Depends on status of code, active, pending or stored? Codes can self clear.

Is the CEL on?

How's performance?

Sounds like a new connector seal.

 

[altide8]

Depends on status of code, active, pending or stored? Codes can self clear.

Is the CEL on?

How's performance?

Sounds like a new connector seal.

No CEL performance is good.

 

[Deleted member 50714]

Don't worry about it.

 

[altide8]

What's up guys.

So the p260f code is back. I changed the fluid, new filter, and plug back in September. It has been running great since then. Today, I got locked into 2nd gear and had the code again.
I cleared it, drove for a little while, then the code came back. I checked the plug and it was dry, as well as the tcm. I have not been able to find any wires that look to be causing the issue.

Should I just move on to the conductor plate at this point?