Transmission won’t shift.

DRTDEVL

Active member
Altide8: note that code p2225-1 is coming from your ENGINE module.
So the Transmission module is telling the Engine module that there is an existing fault... but: the TCM doesn’t clear its codes, so when you clear the code from the ECM it has no effect on the status of the stored TCM code, and the ECM code will reappear.

You’ll want to go into the Read/Clear Codes menu for the Electronic Transmission Control Module (or whatever the iCarsoft calls the NAG1 trans controller?) and read/clear the codes from there. Assuming this was caused by your low-voltage event, the codes should then stay cleared. If there are other underlying issues you’ll need to continue your diagnostics, and the TCM fault codes you read should provide you a direction to pursue. If there’s a wiring issue (rodent damage? wet/leaking 13-pin connector socket?) I would expect to find something like code 260x stored in the EGS/TCM fault list?

-dave
iCarsoft calls it the EGS as well.
 

altide8

Member
Altide8: note that code p2225-1 is coming from your ENGINE module.
So the Transmission module is telling the Engine module that there is an existing fault... but: the TCM doesn’t clear its codes, so when you clear the code from the ECM it has no effect on the status of the stored TCM code, and the ECM code will reappear.

You’ll want to go into the Read/Clear Codes menu for the Electronic Transmission Control Module (or whatever the iCarsoft calls the NAG1 trans controller?) and read/clear the codes from there. Assuming this was caused by your low-voltage event, the codes should then stay cleared. If there are other underlying issues you’ll need to continue your diagnostics, and the TCM fault codes you read should provide you a direction to pursue. If there’s a wiring issue (rodent damage? wet/leaking 13-pin connector socket?) I would expect to find something like code 260x stored in the EGS/TCM fault list?

-dave
Dave you’re the man.
I went out and got the ap200 to confirm that the issue wasn’t my reader. It’s giving me a 260f code. It says refer to manual. I checked all of the wires again. They look good.
 

altide8

Member
iCarsoft calls it the EGS as well.
Very odd that the ap200 picked up this 260f code and the icarsoft didn’t. It’s stored and current. I’m thinking I need to update the icarsoft. I believe they have a software update tool for windows.
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
Dave you’re the man.
I went out and got the ap200 to confirm that the issue wasn’t my reader. It’s giving me a 260f code. It says refer to manual. ...
So... from the Code Guide, pg 78

260F “Sensor Supply Voltage”
Overvoltage.
a. The alternator or voltage regulator is faulty.
b. Test charging system.

Did you charge the battery in place before replacing it? Automatic chargers sometimes put out over 16 volts if they try to recondition the battery... if you turned the key on while the voltage was up this may have set the fault.
In your place I’d do a full clearing of codes (using your AP200) from both the engine and transmission, then see what returns.

-dave
 

altide8

Member
So... from the Code Guide, pg 78

260F “Sensor Supply Voltage”
Overvoltage.
a. The alternator or voltage regulator is faulty.
b. Test charging system.

Did you charge the battery in place before replacing it? Automatic chargers sometimes put out over 16 volts if they try to recondition the battery... if you turned the key on while the voltage was up this may have set the fault.
In your place I’d do a full clearing of codes (using your AP200) from both the engine and transmission, then see what returns.

-dave
The battery is sitting at around 12.5 v I didn’t charge it before install, just checked voltage. I tried to clear codes. They don’t go away on restart. Now I’m getting p200a. According the that manual it’s the module. Is that common for one to just go out? As I said I’ve never had an issue and it looks completely clean (no water or atf)
 

maxzoom

Member
Overvoltage? How much voltage do you get when you turn it on ? I'm getting around 13.35

I had a TCM module go out that caused all kinds of issues. Find another module or buy one on Ebay.
 

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING

jrod5150

Well-known member
The battery is sitting at around 12.5 v I didn’t charge it before install, just checked voltage. I tried to clear codes. They don’t go away on restart. Now I’m getting p200a. According the that manual it’s the module. Is that common for one to just go out? As I said I’ve never had an issue and it looks completely clean (no water or atf)
Yes sometimes they just die...
 

maxzoom

Member
That was a typo I rechecked and I'm getting 14.2 also.
 

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING

Bobnoxious

GONE FISHING
Sometimes, most of the time, batts die as the result of neglect, lack of preventive maintenance.

Here, my obnoxious neighbor, Scotty.

 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
Sometimes, most of the time, batts die as the result of neglect, lack of preventive maintenance.
Old age will get batteries in the end... but abuse kills them quickly.

But back to the Transmission Module... I’ve never experienced a failure, but it’s an electronics box, and I’ve had plenty of them die over the years (most annoyingly: my warranty-plus-a-few-days-old DISHWASHER controller board!? Come on, LG... Ah well, my kids and I can practice taking turns as we wash the dishes.)

-dave
 

altide8

Member
Well I appreciate all of the help. The transmission plug will be here tomorrow. The conductor plate should be here shortly after. I’m going to change those and clean everything up. If that doesn’t do it then I guess I’ll be ordering a TCM. Anything else you guys would add in that I need to try?
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
Tcm usually will lose communication when your scantool is plugged in. You may get communication initially but it will drop out.
Sometimes, most of the time, batts die as the result of neglect, lack of preventive maintenance.

Here, my obnoxious neighbor, Scotty.

the neglect I see is van builders leaving the doors open and interior lights on All day for weeks which eventually wears them out, group 49/H8 are pretty amazing batteries. I’ve had 5 & 6 year old ones that still pack enough cranking Amps to start the motor. I’ll admit I hate lifting them they are a back killer for sure but the weight explains why the last so long. Try getting over 3 years with a group 24 in grandmas lexus. Ain’t happening:ROFLMAO:
 
Last edited:

maxzoom

Member
Well I appreciate all of the help. The transmission plug will be here tomorrow. The conductor plate should be here shortly after. I’m going to change those and clean everything up. If that doesn’t do it then I guess I’ll be ordering a TCM. Anything else you guys would add in that I need to try?
The transmission plug is pretty easy to replace. Just be careful with that little screw. If I were you I'd try replacing the TCM first. Isn't replacing the conductor plate not an easy and risky operation?
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
The transmission plug is pretty easy to replace. Just be careful with that little screw. If I were you I'd try replacing the TCM first. Isn't replacing the conductor plate not an easy and risky operation?
Agreed: if you over-tighten that little screw you can crack the plastic around the insert on the conductor plate. Not fun...

Dropping the pan and valve body is not without risk, but if you have a clean place to work it’s a straightforward process. You will want a torque wrench for the many bolts that clamp the solenoids and valve body together... 71 INCH pounds if memory serves?

-dave
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
Agreed: if you over-tighten that little screw you can crack the plastic around the insert on the conductor plate. Not fun...

Dropping the pan and valve body is not without risk, but if you have a clean place to work it’s a straightforward process. You will want a torque wrench for the many bolts that clamp the solenoids and valve body together... 71 INCH pounds if memory serves?

-dave
Walmart parking lot is my favorite :ROFLMAO:
 

Top Bottom