Diesel injector copper seal


Active member
Let's not forget post #5

I also had to machine down the injector seat a bit to get an even surface, and used a flat tool. Maybe the MB tool is slightly coned, I don't know..
If the seat is now 0.88mm deeper than they originally were then using a washer which is 0.88mm thicker would compensate for this difference and the torque settings and injector nozzle height should be about right.

Of course, everything depends on how much was removed from the injector seat and if it was done evenly but TBH if it doesn't work then it's not a big expense to replace with new stretch bolts and OEM washers and it's not a big job to remove freshly installed injectors (assuming no bolts were snapped).

I had to do this on mine because there was still a lot of dirt in the bottom of two of the bolt holes so when torqued down they weren't sealing properly.

Everything came out, all bolt holes cleaned all washers and bolts replaced. Took longer to clean the holes out than it did to remove the injectors second time around.
I bought new Bosh injectors that came with new copper seals for my 2006 T1n. The little flyer/insert that came in the box speaks of measuring the old seals (in the middle where they haven't been crushed) and using the same thickness seals and gives part numbers for different size seals. Overkill? If you ream out your wells sealing surface, then you need a thicker washer. Ugh! I don't know but makes me think about using thicker washers from Honda.
Old age method works best!
Apply a nub of grease to the injector step.
Slip seal ring with dished side down.
Install injector and let heat carburize the grease sealing the injector seat .
What kind of grease? I have the MB recommended Febi ceramic grease for the body. Will that work for the seal using the a'old age method"?


Active member
*phew* that's what I used...

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