Here goes! My build thread to sleep a family of 9 (!!!) in a 2020 170" 4x4

chipsterguy

Active member
Hi Drodio, in post #196, the second photo of your child on the roof, wondering what you used to create the platform the child is sitting on your roof rack... please provide more details! Thanks!

Also, thoughts on the Cabbunks? Are they worth it? How large of a person would they reasonably fit? Is it for children only? Size / weight limitations?
 

drodio

"Vader" • 2020 170" Crew 4x4
@chipsterguy that’s just the stock Aluminess modular roof rack. More pics of it at https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/89458/post-1010439

The Cabbunk is good. It just takes a bit of time to set up and take down, so we find ourselves not using it unless we have to. The reason I built the slide-out bed was in the hopes of it being a faster setup/takedown than the Cabbunk. We’re about to go on a road trip, so I’ll know after this trip if that’s in fact true! I’d say anyone under 5’5” or so could sleep comfortably in the Cabbunk. Don’t think weight would be an issue; it’s sturdy. Just the width of the van.
 

drodio

"Vader" • 2020 170" Crew 4x4
@mike183 you PMd me asking: “Hey just read your full build thread. Great work! No mention of the fabric on your walls. Did you use a foam behind it? Any info on adhesives to glue it on?” ... figured I’d answer here: I used https://www.hookandloop.com/products/wide-loop/duragrip-brand-display-loop but I can’t say that I recommend it: The idea is great -- be able to Velcro things to the walls. But the material doesn’t look like it’s going to hold up well. When I pit Velcro on the wall, and the pull it off, it leaves wisps of material.

What I’d actually love to find is a vendor that sells the “hook” part of the hook & loop material, i.e., the more durable part, and make that the wall material. Haven’t found a vendor that has that, but LMK if anyone knows of one!
 

SION1771

New member
Way late in responding this but we didn't get a chance to test until Memorial Day weekend. I bought this (and a few other options that didn't work) adapter from Mouser for $3.50
Took Mouser nearly two weeks to get it in the mail, even though they emailed the tracking number a day or so later. There are similar looking adapters on Amazon for $15.

and bought this DC extension cable from Amazon for $15.

A little razzamatazz with the polarity and it works great. Since the plug connects so well into the Wrappon, I don't like removing it from the bottom. But I don't have to - it can just unplug from the extension cable and the dongle from Mouser folds up inside the unit.

Chose the extension cable I did because the gauge/fuse (15amp fuse for the 10amp Wrappon) is sufficient and because of the exposed positive/negative - you have to switch the polarity along the way so a little extra work is required. I tried to make it as obvious as possible so no one used the cable for something else and blew it up. But for ~$20 in parts for mine instead of a full cable >$80 at resellers, I don't mind.

We stocked up on the baggies from 4thdsolar.com because 1. baggies seem like they'll last forever and 2. we don't want a toilet without critical parts to use with it.

BTW, I see Bass Pro now sells the Wrappon and supplies.

Here's my electrical handywork.
1623086442604.png


@SION1771 please share a wiring diagram once you have it figured out! It would be great to have that here as a resource for others that want to do the same thing.
 

drodio

"Vader" • 2020 170" Crew 4x4
Got the Inergy Flex 1500 Power station! Starting to take some videos; more to come:


 

drodio

"Vader" • 2020 170" Crew 4x4
the series-parallel approach boosts the voltage to 24 from 12, which means the panels should work better in lower light (morning/evening) scenarios.

Here the 365 watts input on the Inergy system from the new panels. Will see if it gets up past 400 in more sun!
5B6ADFDB-1F9B-459D-9909-08D4DDE44357.jpeg
 

drodio

"Vader" • 2020 170" Crew 4x4
Just upgraded the Inergy system to 200 amp hours by stacking two 100 amp hour batteries. Easy peasy.

also: I’ve got 880 W of solar on the roof that I hooked up in Series-parallel so it is 440 W running at double the voltage, about 35 V. One thing I hadn’t realized was how much more effective that would be in capturing early morning and late evening sun. Since the system stops working below 12 V, having that additional voltage means I can keep getting power earlier in the morning and later in the evening. Really makes a huge difference!

4947EF6F-8D17-43CB-AB37-F5ED502C72F5.jpegA18F795D-3701-4DAC-B4F4-999B9D219150.jpeg36C7FF6A-F940-4A16-AA4B-3763B5D6F35A.jpeg
 

SION1771

New member
Well, bad news on our toilet - the bags leak. You have that issue?

Here are some odd observances:
It's not every time; it comes in waves. So it will be fine for 5 or so 'flushes', then the next two or three in a row will leak.
It's AFTER the flush - we've been leaving water in the toilet to so we could see ahead of time when it leaks, and the water will stay in there, sometimes for a day or two. After we use it and flush, then the leak appears.
It's at the seal... but again, not until the top of the bag is sealed.
We tested it out with water for a handful of flushes and didn't have any issues. Too bad it's so expensive to test it out.

We're wondering if the coagulant is expanding and putting force on things. We now have a baking pan underneath it to make cleanup simple.
 

drodio

"Vader" • 2020 170" Crew 4x4
@SION1771 mine sometimes leaks too. Never a lot, but I’ve always put a pan underneath the toilet for this reason. Same as yours — never leaks until after it does its cycle.

On the one hand, I’m bummed because the whole point is not to have to deal with waste. On the other hand, it’s usually just a very little bit, and it’s still so much better than the alternative that I haven’t bothered to try to figure out why it’s happening.

Does sound like a design defect, though!
 

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