Emerging issue with OM651 intake manifolds

[Bern-Alive]

Same happened last year to my CDI316 906, built 2013. Cracked plastic manifold.
During research in den German Sprinter-Forum I was told that this is a common issue, affecting 906ers mostly beyond 120.000Km.
Esimate was around 1.200€, including engine removal. That's the SOP appearantly only in Germany.
Luckily, I happened to be in Montenegro at that time, and the MB-Truck-Service in Podgorica, Capital of MNE charged me only 416€, incl. original spare MB-manifold.
No engine removal.
The guy got it fixed in 6 Hours. On my next trip there I will habe all of the brake disks exchanged, no quotation yet, but I thought where else to go?
Best, Bern

 

[Eventhorizon69]

I’m about to do this job. I’m surprised no company made a metallic version, it would be the obvious choice. Guess I’ll reinforce mine. Anyone know a rough temperature range for that part/area of the engine? Just so I can trust the glue I’m using. Was thinking of using something like Sika 292i, could spread it along the top and bottom to give it more strength, and even if it cracked that glue would still remain flexible and sealed. However I think the glue only goes up to about 90C..

BTW if anyone has an exploded diagram of the intake, charge air pipe, throttle body etc, with all part numbers that would be awesome.

WDB9066351S645717

I’m also wondering about removing the engine cover.. I mean, what could go wrong, right?? Isn’t it there just to stop little critters eating away at wiring?

 

[Ivan Borisovich]

I’m about to do this job. I’m surprised no company made a metallic version, it would be the obvious choice. Guess I’ll reinforce mine. Anyone know a rough temperature range for that part/area of the engine? Just so I can trust the glue I’m using. Was thinking of using something like Sika 292i, could spread it along the top and bottom to give it more strength, and even if it cracked that glue would still remain flexible and sealed. However I think the glue only goes up to about 90C..

BTW if anyone has an exploded diagram of the intake, charge air pipe, throttle body etc, with all part numbers that would be awesome.

WDB9066351S645717

I’m also wondering about removing the engine cover.. I mean, what could go wrong, right?? Isn’t it there just to stop little critters eating away at wiring?

See attachments below

 

[smoove_ride]

I’m about to do this job. I’m surprised no company made a metallic version, it would be the obvious choice. Guess I’ll reinforce mine. Anyone know a rough temperature range for that part/area of the engine? Just so I can trust the glue I’m using. Was thinking of using something like Sika 292i, could spread it along the top and bottom to give it more strength, and even if it cracked that glue would still remain flexible and sealed. However I think the glue only goes up to about 90C..

BTW if anyone has an exploded diagram of the intake, charge air pipe, throttle body etc, with all part numbers that would be awesome.

WDB9066351S645717

I’m also wondering about removing the engine cover.. I mean, what could go wrong, right?? Isn’t it there just to stop little critters eating away at wiring?

I'm putting of this job until this fall when I have a place/time to do it. We have about 60K on the clock, so it's a coming. Can you post back afterwards and let us know how it went?

 

[Eventhorizon69]

See attachments below

Many thanks Ivan!!

 

[Eventhorizon69]

I'm putting of this job until this fall when I have a place/time to do it. We have about 60K on the clock, so it's a coming. Can you post back afterwards and let us know how it went?

Yeah talk about place and a time, I live in my camper conversion, and I’m in Portugal where the police can technically kick you off every spot, even public parking, nature, even on your own land! So I have to find a hide-away spot in nature and do the job there, and the biggest job I’ve done before on my van was change the brakes/rotors!! So yeah.. little anxious about it. Praying that I won’t get a broken bolt on the manifold.

 

[Eventhorizon69]

Question; when I replace the intake manifold, I’ll be using the actuator/motor off the old one and putting it on the new one. Will there be a need for any calibration or something I need to take care of here? Or is it a simple swap thing? -I just read somewhere that Mercedes needs to calibrate it, but I’m guessing that’s when you buy a new one. IF for whatever reason I do need to replace the actuator and it needs calibrating, how does that work? I’m guessing they need my whole vehicle there in shop?

 

[rodgerb717]

Hello all. It's May 1, 2024. Thought it would be good to post my recent experience with the cracked intake manifold on my 2015 Freightliner 2500 2.1L. My turbo fan compressor noise was getting louder by the day (now from the driver's side) coupled with a slow, steady loss of power.

Mercedes Benz will not appreciate this post...

If you suspect that your manifold may be cracked, check with your local MB dealer and have the Sprinter Service advisor run your VIN to see if this repair is covered under WARRANTY! Yes, warranty. My van has 217,000 on the clock and after it was entered into their system, I was informed that the entire repair could be covered under an extended emissions warranty/recall/update/class action settlement. This "coverage" would end in 2025 / or 235,000 miles, whichever came first.

Balancing all the current issues (I need my van for work (massively busy right now), no guarantee of warranty coverage until they could evaluate it, and the down time at the shop for the repair), I decided to go for the repair myself (as I do 90% of maintenance). It was probably the most frustrating, unenjoyable mechanical work I have ever done on a vehicle. Quoting the head technician "These ones are not fun to work on." I did find the crack in the manifold, right underneath the fuel filter. It was in the exact same spot that everyone else's was failing.

I had the van towed in the next day. They will deny it all day long (as I started the service and that's a no-no for those guys to follow behind), but they finished the repair AT NO CHARGE to me...all covered under this warranty/service agreement...all through Mercedes Benz (I have no other mechanical insurance/coverage).

I pretty much despise most dealers. I completely despise MB USA corporate. However, I do have to say that on those rare times I HAVE to take my van in to the local MB, they have been AWESOME. Thanks fellas!

 

[SeattleMatt]

rodgerb717 thanks for the information. Unfortunately, for those of us that haven't gotten the emissions recall yet it is too late , it expired in January.

 

[Kajtek1]

rodgerb717 thanks for the information. Unfortunately, for those of us that haven't gotten the emissions recall yet it is too late , it expired in January.

What expired in December of 2022 and then in January 2024 are cash incentives for doing the AEM.
AEM and following extended warranty has no expiration date.

 

[rodgerb717]

rodgerb717 thanks for the information. Unfortunately, for those of us that haven't gotten the emissions recall yet it is too late , it expired in January.

Well, I can't really comment on that. What I can suggest is that you reach out to a few different service advisors to check/validate your VIN and coverage. Considering my experience, isn't it worth a call or two?

 

[WazFab]

Hi, hope im not about to be shot for revivng an old forum, or at least attempting to. Just wondering if theres any other jobs that are worth while while im in there, got the identical crack in the intake and expected carbon buildup, thinking of a new manifold and new seals where ive disturbed them, TIA.

 

[Exilaltbier]

No shooting 🤣

It may make sense to stiffen the crack section(red arrow) in advance and also insert a second stiffening pin in the circular section( green arrow). This way the oval retains its shape.


The stiffening pin (green arrow) prevents the intake manifold from deforming under high pressure.
This means that fatigue fractures do not occur in the red area.

 

[WazFab]

No shooting 🤣

It may make sense to stiffen the crack section(red arrow) in advance and also insert a second stiffening pin in the circular section( green arrow). This way the oval retains its shape.

View attachment 318389
The stiffening pin (green arrow) prevents the intake manifold from deforming under high pressure.
This means that fatigue fractures do not occur in the red area.

ahh I see, thanks for sparing me from the firing range!! I hadn't really thought about it deforming under pressure but makes total sense really, what have you or others used as a stiffening pin? cheers

 

[Exilaltbier]

Threaded rod, nuts, washers and to seal the hole on the washers Sika or other oil and heat-resistant sealing rubber or adhesive.
Another option is to insert a suitable metal or plastic tube and
secure that with threaded rod, washers, nuts.
See the youtube video from the Ukrainian workshop a few answers above. It' s the similar repair version

 

[WazFab]

Threaded rod, nuts, washers and to seal the hole on the washers Sika or other oil and heat-resistant sealing rubber or adhesive.
Another option is to insert a suitable metal or plastic tube and
secure that with threaded rod, washers, nuts.
See the youtube video from the Ukrainian workshop a few answers above. It' s the similar repair version

forgive me for maybe being a bit thick, i cant find the youtube video ?

 

[Exilaltbier]

Post in thread 'Emerging issue with OM651 intake manifolds' https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/89395/post-1334200

Page 1 oft this thread
Post from May 12th 2023

 

[WazFab]

Hello, me again, just coming back round to rebuilding the sprinter I’ve done an intake manifold, and can I f*** figure out there this bolt came from, any ideas 😂😬 13mm, seems to be the only one floating about

 

[norcal2]

What expired in December of 2022 and then in January 2024 are cash incentives for doing the AEM.
AEM and following extended warranty has no expiration date.

I turned down the recall they offered me I think around $3k USD and then replace everything but I have a GDE tune which has worked out great for years no more EGR issues and clean burning and better mileage and legal where I live..I did have to replace the silicone turbo seals though a while ago before the tune..Im not going back to stock and always run fuel additives like Standyne really helps and have installed a catch can for any oil blow by

 

[WazFab]

Hello, me again, just coming back round to rebuilding the sprinter I’ve done an intake manifold, and can I f*** figure out there this bolt came from, any ideas 😂😬 13mm, seems to be the only one floating about

fun fact for anyone who does the same, this bolt cant be that important, the vans done several thousand miles already and no issues