Emerging issue with OM651 intake manifolds

Mashley

Member
HI

Recently my 2013 313 CDI LWB sprinter has been going into LHM throwing a P0299 underboost code. I can recreate the issue by either booting it up a hill in 3rd from cold or by regular around town driving causing LHM to kick in when the van warms up. My head is telling me there is a leak caused by expansion from heat or pressure, my question is are my symptoms similar to anyone who has actually had this intake issue? I'm pretty sure my engine is an OM651.
 

Kajtek1

2015 3500 X long limo RV
Leaks on intercooler system show as oil stains (assuming your engine is clean). I did have similar symptoms when hose clamp made small cut. It would hold the pressure in normal driving, but would open with high boost at WOT.
 

Mashley

Member
I had a load of oil over the red charge hose from the turbo to the intercooler, changed the gaskets on the hose, cleaned it up, been on a few good runs, 100 miles or so, no more oil on the hose, still going into LHM annoyingly...
 

Jackies Dog Grooming

2016 NCV3 144" 4 banger
I haven't been on here in a while. My 2016 2.1 started limping when it warms up. Usually after around 5 to 10 miles. I did all of the basics first. Oil change, air filter, fuel filter, checked intercooler hoses. Cleared codes and the same after around 5 to 10 miles, limp. I can get up to freeway speeds, just slow off the start and going uphills.

Codes are:
1. NOx sensor circuit range/performance bank 1. sensor 1.
2. Turbocharger A underboost. condition.
3. System too lean bank 1

After inspection under the van, I see oily residue coming from the tube going up to the manifold. Now after reading this thread, I think it might be the cracked manifold. I can't see how to check it from the top of the engine. Now from reading this thread, it looks like it's under the fuel filter holder.
By the way, it only has 28,000 miles on it. It's used locally for work and never goes more than 15 miles in any direction from home. But it idles to power the inverter for the grooming equipment and hot water heater.

P.S. It went in last year for the emission recall. Looks like all they did was install a new NOx sensor and flashed the computer.

Also, thanks to all here offering great advice and pictures.
 

Jackies Dog Grooming

2016 NCV3 144" 4 banger
I haven't been on here in a while. My 2016 2.1 started limping when it warms up. Usually after around 5 to 10 miles. I did all of the basics first. Oil change, air filter, fuel filter, checked intercooler hoses. Cleared codes and the same after around 5 to 10 miles, limp. I can get up to freeway speeds, just slow off the start and going uphills.

Codes are:
1. NOx sensor circuit range/performance bank 1. sensor 1.
2. Turbocharger A underboost. condition.
3. System too lean bank 1

After inspection under the van, I see oily residue coming from the tube going up to the manifold. Now after reading this thread, I think it might be the cracked manifold. I can't see how to check it from the top of the engine. Now from reading this thread, it looks like it's under the fuel filter holder.
By the way, it only has 28,000 miles on it. It's used locally for work and never goes more than 15 miles in any direction from home. But it idles to power the inverter for the grooming equipment and hot water heater.

P.S. It went in last year for the emission recall. Looks like all they did was install a new NOx sensor and flashed the computer.

Also, thanks to all here offering great advice and pictures.
Update: MB called back yesterday. Yes, I have a cracked intake manifold, although they called it something else. 15 hours labor. Covered under extended warranty.
And the DPF broken under the mesh band and bracket. Covered under extended warranty.
They still managed to get $620 out of me for something not covered and I don't understand yet. But I was just happy with the other more expensive items cover. Dropped it off Tuesday, will have it back Monday. A weeks work lost for the wife, but she can just reschedule them.
I'll post a pic of the work order when I get it back.
P.S. This is on a 2016 2.1 turbo diesel.
 

Exilaltbier

Member




In this reinforcement pass the material crack (yellow resp. red arrow)

Modification / repair of the old part or as a precautionary measure with a new part.

This hole must be completely filled with HR glue/ powder.

Removing the stiffening bars in the round ( green arrow) and inserting a selfmade spacer of threaded rod, washers and nuts and seal the outside of the modification on the top and bottom with glue/powder.

 

Sword_of_the_Spirit

Active member
It may be a bit silly, but relevant: Removal of the Engine Cover that traps all that heat. Might be worthwhile as their is clearly evidence of fatigue that is not specifically related to over stock boosting tunes (as evidenced based upon posting) and poor mechanical servicing damage.

You won’t notice it’s gone.
 

steve26

Member




In this reinforcement pass the material crack (yellow resp. red arrow)

Modification / repair of the old part or as a precautionary measure with a new part.

This hole must be completely filled with HR glue/ powder.

Removing the stiffening bars in the round ( green arrow) and inserting a selfmade spacer of threaded rod, washers and nuts and seal the outside of the modification on the top and bottom with glue/powder.

I suspect I also have a crack in my intake manifold also as I get random LHM with no errors and seems to happen more in hot weather.
Has anyone tried repairing theirs with this method? If so was it successful?
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
..., just wanted to let you guys know about an issue I'm beginning to see with the intake manifold on OM651 engines. There is an area in the center of the intake manifold where a boost leak develops and is somewhat tricky to find without knowing where to look as it sits almost directly below the fuel filter housing.
How'd i miss this original posting? (rhetorical)

Back in 2004, there was a recall out for the T1N Sprinters with the OM612 engine (i.e. pre-2004).
They were wearing through the intake manifold wall (corrosive gasses?)

What goes around comes around

--dick
 

Exilaltbier

Member
As far as i know, it's a very helpful modification. Fullfill up the usual fault section with power glue for stiffen it an set the new reinforcement at the front of the manifold as shown.
I saw a video, where the local ukrainian or russian workshop said, this version ist much stiffer and good for another million of kilometers.
This is what I will do if my part breaks and leaks.
 

SeattleMatt

Active member
Anyone have experience using different brands for these? Obviously the Mercedes version has a flaw so no reason to stick with OEM in this case. Any idea who the OEM manufacturer is?
Vaico $267 at ECS
SKP $218 at partsgeek
Brock $87 at Partsgeek
 
Anyone have experience using different brands for these? Obviously the Mercedes version has a flaw so no reason to stick with OEM in this case. Any idea who the OEM manufacturer is?
Vaico $267 at ECS
SKP $218 at partsgeek
Brock $87 at Partsgeek
I might be wrong, but I thought MB updated the part on this to address the issue? I thought Dennis posted awhile back that it was 'fixed' by the updated part.
 

Kajtek1

2015 3500 X long limo RV
I might be wrong, but I thought MB updated the part on this to address the issue? I thought Dennis posted awhile back that it was 'fixed' by the updated part.
x2
Check with EPC for updated parts.
I have seen parts who had 8 updates.
Not necessarily technical update, but when the part manufacturing goes to different supplier, it gets new number.
 

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