Roadtrek Etrek 2014 -Coach electrical diagrams.

Borch

Borch
Does anyone an accurate drawings for the coach electrical? I am replacing the 8 - AGM batteries and inverter/ charger with lithium battery system.
I have contacted Roadtrek and they will not supply this information.
I have traced most of the battery cabling and components, but would like to have more info pertaining to the design inside the coach.

Thanks... Burl
2014 CS Adventurous Etrek
 

Borch

Borch
This is the DC junction box located at the rear drivers under side of the the RV. I labeled the cables for future connections / modifications.
I also have most of the other DC wire traced out for the RV and will post in the near future. The plan is to convert to Lithium battery system.
 

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Borch

Borch
People need to be made aware concerning the Etrek battery system wiring. There is no protection or fusing in the circuit. Hence, a fault condition will not blow a fuse or circuit breaker. There is no shutoff switch to disconnect the batteries from the inverter, alternator or other batteries. There is no DC blocking diode on the alternator to prevent back feeding or isolation. My system is 24vdc 390 amp system and they wired the system with 1/0 awg cable, which is rated at nominal 150 amps. In my opinion, this does not meet any electrical code and provides a potential for castrophic disaster.
 

Borch

Borch
Here is the rough drawings the Etrek DC wiring configuration. Please use as reference only. Note, the lack of any circuit protection / safety.
A few properly placed fuses / circuit breakers and a disconnect switch are required.
 

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JohnnyCLE

New member
Attached is a pdf of a spreadsheet which represents my best efforts to start to document the 8 AGM E-Trek electrical model. I have a original 2015 without a balancer. I have been considering different options for going forward. Would definitely be interested in your thoughts and experiences as you go forward with changes.
 

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Borch

Borch
Hi Johnny CLE.

The balancer is required to protect the two batteries under the hood, if you are boon docking and not connected to shore power. Hence, the fridge will kill these two these two batteries. It was a electrical design mistake. I have experienced this scenario several years ago.

I have purchased 6 - Lion Energy UT1300 and Victron Quattro 24/5000 configured the system and presently running inside my garage which I monitor closely, for bulk, absorption, and float charges. The lithium batteries are amazing and you can discharge or charge at 100 amps each. I also have the Victron hardware for solar, alternator, and 24-12 converter.

Thanks for you comments and cleaning up my rough drawing. I will post more, but need to make a trip west in the near future.
 

JohnnyCLE

New member
My use case generally has the RV driving or plugged into shore power and rarely drawing substantially from only the 12v batteries, so the balancing issue has been minimal so far. I do understand that the 8 batteries distributed across two locations, charged from 4 sources, and tapped at two voltages is far from optimal. Rather than jump to patch this system with a balancer I would prefer to change it to a more optimal configuration. I understand that as part of installing a balancer the coach alternator charging source through the "Smart Solenoid" is neutered. I would prefer to not loose this capability.

Re in fuses / breakers, my understanding is that the little black boxes at the junction points, shown in the attached photos, are auto resetting fuses / breakers. Perhaps I am badly mistaken, I am still learning.E-Trek Self Resetting Breakers.jpg
 

Borch

Borch
Another option would to install a DC-DC converter for the 24vdc to the 12vdc for the fuse panel feed. I have a Victron Orion 24/12-70amp Dc-Dc Converter IP20 and it cost about $115. This would eliminate the equalizer and balance the battery load. Also you can install a DC shunt and monitor all your batteries charge and discharge voltages and amperage. If you do a search on my postings I have detailed this project.
 

JohnnyCLE

New member
Thanks, there is such a broad range of solutions depending on how many of the shortcomings one wants to address and how much one wants to spend. Since I don't have a burning issue right now I have been putting off making changes until I fully understand the end point I want to move to.

At this point I think this would include; getting better visibility and control over actual charging output of the chassis and auxiliary alternators, improving control and insight into output of the solar panel, optimizing the two front batteries for 12v support to keep the 12v infrastructure in place and to compliment the chassis 12v battery, optimizing the rear battery bay for 24v / 110v inverter operation, and backup feed to the 12v batteries via a DC converter / charger. This seems like the best solution to solve the control, visibility, balancing, wire length, and battery bay temperature differences.

How to optimize the 24v bay is the biggest open question. Do I drop in 6 8v AGMs into the existing footprint, add 2 6v AGMs to make 8 in the back, or progress to lithium. Hence my interest in what you are doing. Progressing to lithium would call for upgrading a number of additional components. I don't see making a major investment to environmentally protect the rear battery bay so I presume I would need to "feather" operation of the 24v bank in temperatures below the lithium operating range.

To date I have installed battery monitors on both the front and rear grounds. A recent load test pulled 3.5 hours at 1400w out of the existing batteries so I believe I have some runway to figure things out before the batteries reach the end of their useful life. If in the mean time I fall in love with a different unit I would probably do the quick and dirty of drop in a balancer, new batteries, and snip the smart solenoid operation.
 

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