The saga of the 2005 3500 bought with many unknown issues...

DRTDEVL

Active member
UPDATE:

Installed ECM and SKREEM, now it cranks as it should. The replacement ECM has cured the odd ground voltage behavior and battery draining.

Crank, no start.

Codes for glow plug (irrelevant as its in the upper 70s), EGR open circuit, and Rail pressure control open circuit.

I replaced the fuel rail with a known good unit. Code gone.

I replaced the EGR with a known good unit (it was seized). Code gone.

Crank, no start.

I have a valid handshake between the cam and crank sensors. 4 bar pressure in rail before cranking (key on), 400 bar pressure in rail while cranking.

What am I missing? Why won't it fire now? I have unplugged the EGR and the MAF to see if I could get it to fire in a limp mode to no avail.
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
Rpm in the data stream? Take your time and dig through there to make sure everything is as it should be. Thats where you want to start. Make sure someone didnt stick gas in it.
 

DRTDEVL

Active member
Rpm in the data stream? Take your time and dig through there to make sure everything is as it should be. Thats where you want to start. Make sure someone didnt stick gas in it.
That is the only point of question... it seems to be reading low on the RPM when cranking (up to 200 rpm only), although it does have a proper handshake. I have attempted to get the crank sensor out to no avail, have to work tomorrow, but Thursday I will be back at it again to try to pull the crank sensor without breaking it off in the engine block.
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
200 doesnt sound way off to me. I had one unit that I had bought that must have been sitting awhile. It would get to a point where it would almost start when cranking. Do a fuel leak off test just to make sure you are getting a decent amount of fuel up there. finally it started and has a bad #1 injector. it was kicking out zero fuel

Btw how'd it go with your pressure bleed vs Vacuum bleed? I have a van with a soft pedal about to do a vacuum bleed was curious how the pressure bleed worked in comparison.
 

DRTDEVL

Active member
200 doesnt sound way off to me. I had one unit that I had bought that must have been sitting awhile. It would get to a point where it would almost start when cranking. Do a fuel leak off test just to make sure you are getting a decent amount of fuel up there. finally it started and has a bad #1 injector. it was kicking out zero fuel

Btw how'd it go with your pressure bleed vs Vacuum bleed? I have a van with a soft pedal about to do a vacuum bleed was curious how the pressure bleed worked in comparison.
I already did a leak off test and found one of the injectors the previous owner replaced with a used unit was a bad injector. All of them are now within spec.

Yhe power bleed was amazing compared to trying to vacuum bleed it. Well, that and the fact that I found out my rear bleeder screws were clogged with mud. This is why I got absolutely nothing no matter how hard I tried. Running the bleeding program through the Xentry unit was a snap.
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
I already did a leak off test and found one of the injectors the previous owner replaced with a used unit was a bad injector. All of them are now within spec.

Yhe power bleed was amazing compared to trying to vacuum bleed it. Well, that and the fact that I found out my rear bleeder screws were clogged with mud. This is why I got absolutely nothing no matter how hard I tried. Running the bleeding program through the Xentry unit was a snap.
We don’t know what mud is here :ROFLMAO: I vacuum bled one today with a soft pedal 118 high roof. 367k and the van is absolutely immaculate. Vacuum bleed got it done.
If you have a scope, I’d suggest using it to look at the crank wave form vs busting it off and fixing something that might not be broken
 

billintomahawk

'02 2.7 T!N Freightliner
DD, I remember reading a thread where a stuck crankshaft sensor was removed by taking out the front floor mat and cutting an access panel in the 'firewall/floor' to get access to remove it. I've spent some quality time with my hands up in that area laying on my back in the dirt messing with transmission lines, the starter, etc.
It tried my patience.
I know this is a little radical but it wouldn't take much to make an access panel.

bill in tomahawk
 

sipma02

Member
DD, I remember reading a thread where a stuck crankshaft sensor was removed by taking out the front floor mat and cutting an access panel in the 'firewall/floor' to get access to remove it. I've spent some quality time with my hands up in that area laying on my back in the dirt messing with transmission lines, the starter, etc.
It tried my patience.
I know this is a little radical but it wouldn't take much to make an access panel.

bill in tomahawk
That's definitely an interesting idea. But how would you reseal/close it?
 

marklg

Well-known member
DD, I remember reading a thread where a stuck crankshaft sensor was removed by taking out the front floor mat and cutting an access panel in the 'firewall/floor' to get access to remove it. I've spent some quality time with my hands up in that area laying on my back in the dirt messing with transmission lines, the starter, etc.
It tried my patience.
I know this is a little radical but it wouldn't take much to make an access panel.

bill in tomahawk
That's definitely an interesting idea. But how would you reseal/close it?
Construction adhesive and Gorilla tape?

b
We actually did a similar thing to a 1974 Chevy Blazer a friend of mine owned. He "tuned" the engine for more power (headers, Holley Carb, etc.) and then blew up multiple THM350 transmissions. In order to much more easily get the transfer case and transmission out several times, we cut a hole in the floor so an engine hoist could be put through the door and attach to the top. He then fabricated a sheet metal cover for the hole with a gasket (don't remember exactly what, as it was 40+ years ago) and attached with sheet metal screws.

Eventually he had to install a THM400 to withstand the extra torque. That an the extra lift kit that increased the u joint angles also blew up the rear driveshaft, which fell out in the road just as we stopped due to excessive vibration, narrowly avoiding a failure at 90 MPH a minute earlier. Does this story provide any hints why I'm not a fan of "tuning" for more power/torque?

Regards,

Mark
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
DD, I remember reading a thread where a stuck crankshaft sensor was removed by taking out the front floor mat and cutting an access panel in the 'firewall/floor' to get access to remove it. I've spent some quality time with my hands up in that area laying on my back in the dirt messing with transmission lines, the starter, etc.
It tried my patience.
I know this is a little radical but it wouldn't take much to make an access panel.

bill in tomahawk
HACK!! :ROFLMAO:
 

DRTDEVL

Active member
Still scratching my head... I just double checked all fuses again, nothing blown.

Could a bad fuse box A cause this? I have spares...

I'm heading out for a long weekend camping in my RV tomorrow, so I won't be back on this again until next Tuesday.
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
Did you scope the Crank/Cam ? Ive had crankers that simply needed the cam sensor replaced. I did read your initial post but that pid can bounce around all over the place on a T1N, not sure how trustworthy it is. Are you getting any sort of progress as far as how the engine sounds cranking wise? Like does it sound like it will almost start? or the same ole consistent cranking sound
 

DRTDEVL

Active member
Have you put a LED test light on the injector feed? Does it flash? That would tell you if the injectors are being triggered at all.
Not yet. I didn't get anything done to it today as I had other pressing issues to tend to (like finishing up the 2004 140 that I am selling).

Did you scope the Crank/Cam ? Ive had crankers that simply needed the cam sensor replaced. I did read your initial post but that pid can bounce around all over the place on a T1N, not sure how trustworthy it is. Are you getting any sort of progress as far as how the engine sounds cranking wise? Like does it sound like it will almost start? or the same ole consistent cranking sound
Just crank. Doesn't even think of firing. As said, I haven't scoped it yet, didn't have time to mess with it at all today, aside from pulling each fuse, inspecting them, and checking continuity.
 

DRTDEVL

Active member
OK, fresh battery today. Now it cranks full speed, but no start.

I cleared all codes, tried again, had a crank sensor plausibility code. Shoot! I forgot to plug it back in!

Crawl under, plug it in, and clear codes again. Try cranking, and still no start.

Funny thing is the iCarsoft MB II says cam/crank synchronized, but the Xentry says pending, then timeout.

I searched up and down through my parts stash, but alas, I cannot find a good cam sensor to test with. The crank sensor is still stuck in there, so its looking like I will need to just pony up for a new cam sensor and see if it will run (I have a good used crank sensor to try if that doesn't work, but I don't want to have to pull the crank sensor if at all possible, as it will likely break in the process).
 

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