YOGATOURING
New member
any sources for the DPF Sensor in or near Jackson, WY. Fedex can't get it there on time from any dealer. needed by tomorrow.
LOSING POWER Uphill
- Thread starter YOGATOURING
- Start date
Yes... Another name for it is "Visctronic Fan Clutch". It still uses silicone liquid to lock and unlock the clutch, but the difference is in the trigger. Viscous fan clutch has a mechanical trigger/coil, the Visctronic fan clutch is directly controlled by the ECU and it has 2 stages/speeds on Sprinters.
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lindenengineering
Well-known member
Whoa Sir Lancelot !!
OK you have an indication its the differential pressure sensor.
Now with Snappy, switch out of codes , that's for indication only!
GO TO to live data on the tool and see the ACTUAL figures of that sensor at work to prove it.
Look at it in KOEO ,then in KOER at idle then give it some revs record the figures.
At the same time do a comparison of the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor AND the EBP, nearby on the screen.
What's it showing?
Simply put:- because that EBP sensor easily gets plugged up with carbon and throws the whole thing into a hissy fit AND rainwater dripping off the hood scuttle drops into the socket and shorts it out.!
If its all out of whack now do the visuals.
The diff pressure sensor is mounted in front of the HVAC intake filter housing.
Remove the 6 mm nut (10 mmm wrench ) and slide it off the stud ,what is the part number on the label?
Does it have the latest socket & pig tail on it?
The original has the wiring simply hanging down (best descried like limp dick) " hanging" -or does it have a small thin zip tie holding the wiring up just behind the socket? (That is part of an update or modification to alleviate what you are showing on your screen as a code)
Now follow the 10mm s/s pipes down the frame to the SCR Cat.
Remove the socket from the EBP ,just at the back of the EGR cooler entry housing--Big 22mm hex body with black plug, !
Is the interior corroded?
Are the pipes loose on the Cat connectors or broken off?
So now follow the 10mm s/s pipes down the frame to the SCR Cat.
Now get under the rig and look at the flex exhaust connection fwd of the SCR Cat & DEF dosing valve !
Notorious for breaking and on 2011 to 2013 exhaust systems, the weld is so marginal that it fractures over time slips back allowing a gas leak !
That means a black carbon gas trace --look for it!
If its leaking then you will get reduced gas pressure which "down the pipe" is recorded as a (low figure/defective pressure fault code.
Clearly from your narrative a dealer changed the sensor , did they do the checking as I aforementioned or just throw parts on it.?
The reason I mention it is because only the other day I/We we got in a 2011 Sprinter with a Cat temp sensor issue ,and an erstwhile local dealer put a new sensor in it, not once but three times over several weeks--to no avail.
And the root cause was they installed all three consecutive sensors from an AMG S Class . What were they thinking???
As a footnote this procedural is what is outlined by both GM and B/L Landrover/Jag, for servicing techs and its approach to fault finding and problem resolution .
If you short cut it by throwing parts it, it may not easily fix the issue so beware .
Dennis
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YOGATOURING
New member
UPDATE:
We replaced the DPF Sensor (2nd one) and changed the Fuel Filter and it's been running great for about 700 miles.
I am also in the process of cleaning the EGR Valve but having a very hard time getting it off. (any advice? ). Took the four Torque Bolts out but it seems to be locked in place. Thinking it's years of soot build up that has sealed it tight.
We replaced the DPF Sensor (2nd one) and changed the Fuel Filter and it's been running great for about 700 miles.
I am also in the process of cleaning the EGR Valve but having a very hard time getting it off. (any advice? ). Took the four Torque Bolts out but it seems to be locked in place. Thinking it's years of soot build up that has sealed it tight.
sparkplug
Well-known member
I agree with Andrew_T - mine had obviously been removed before as they'd stripped one of the threads in the casing by overtightening and hadn't changed the metal gasket so they'd liberally applied silicone sealant to it.
This made it a bit of a challenge to remove but the solution was to use patience rather than brute force.
Some gentle taps, some twisting, a lot of coaxing and so on until I could twist it by hand and then it was a lot of side to side rotation with some gentle upward pressure until it came out.
New gaskets are inexpensive and I would strongly suggest replacing it as a matter of course.
This made it a bit of a challenge to remove but the solution was to use patience rather than brute force.
Some gentle taps, some twisting, a lot of coaxing and so on until I could twist it by hand and then it was a lot of side to side rotation with some gentle upward pressure until it came out.
New gaskets are inexpensive and I would strongly suggest replacing it as a matter of course.
lindenengineering
Well-known member
In answer to the question.
Have new gasket at hand BEFORE you get to the removing bit.
On the right side of the housing where the valve sits is a square like indentation.
As others have mentioned you will need to create some rotational movement by tapping it with a suitable "small" BFH.
Don't go mad you can seriously deform it .
Once you have got a bit of movement introduce a blade of a big screw driver or small heel bar, (or similar) under the valve using the square indentation to get some'lift " on the valve as you tap rotate it.
Once its been "lifted by a few thousand of an inch copious flood the gap with an aerosol freeing agent.
Let it soak for about 5 minutes .
Continue the tapping rotation with some upload "lift" and the gap will increase each time, continue the flooding with more agent, more rational tap'n lift until it slips out.
The key words are patience. (seldom in woman NEVER in a man) here, some mechanical sympathy, and a good freeing agent is needed.
All the best
Dennis
Have new gasket at hand BEFORE you get to the removing bit.
On the right side of the housing where the valve sits is a square like indentation.
As others have mentioned you will need to create some rotational movement by tapping it with a suitable "small" BFH.
Don't go mad you can seriously deform it .
Once you have got a bit of movement introduce a blade of a big screw driver or small heel bar, (or similar) under the valve using the square indentation to get some'lift " on the valve as you tap rotate it.
Once its been "lifted by a few thousand of an inch copious flood the gap with an aerosol freeing agent.
Let it soak for about 5 minutes .
Continue the tapping rotation with some upload "lift" and the gap will increase each time, continue the flooding with more agent, more rational tap'n lift until it slips out.
The key words are patience. (seldom in woman NEVER in a man) here, some mechanical sympathy, and a good freeing agent is needed.
All the best
Dennis
Hello Dennis,
Looking for the part number for the electruc pulse cooling fan.
Appreciated
lindenengineering
Well-known member
Need last "8" of Vin #
Dennis
E5861164