Suggestions for building removable refrigerator cabinet

elemental

Wherever you go, there you are.
I've never build anything using 8020. I have limited familiarity with the connectors and profiles. I want to limit my waste, and I have limited time. So...

Has anyone built a removable refrigerator cabinet using 8020? I think its going to look something like a 1" square box frame with additional bracing, 1 inch of insulation in the 3 walls and on the top (to improve the efficiency of the fridge), some kind of plastic panels fastened to the box framing, and carry handles tied into the framing on the two sides so that two people can move the box with the refrigerator mounted inside.

The refrigerator is an Isotherm Cruise Elegance 130. It weighs about 55-60 lbs. It is about 29 1/2 inches high, 20 1/2 inches wide, and 21 inches deep (to the front of the door), so I expect the finished dimensions to be about 22 1/2 inches wide, 31 1/2 inches high, and 22 inches deep. Some cleverness will be required to accommodate the compressor/coil unit that sticks out almost an inch in the back and the air flow that it needs.

Most people stick refrigerators like this into a piece of built-in cabinetry with a cutout of the proper dimensions. I need mine to be removable from the van when I'm not using it for camping. I searched forum posts but didn't find any prior art. Any suggestions before I start experimenting? 8020 profiles (1"x1"?) Types of connectors that can hold it together, especially supporting the vertical load on the bottom from the refrigerator weight?
 

marklg

Well-known member
I've never build anything using 8020. I have limited familiarity with the connectors and profiles. I want to limit my waste, and I have limited time. So...

Has anyone built a removable refrigerator cabinet using 8020? I think its going to look something like a 1" square box frame with additional bracing, 1 inch of insulation in the 3 walls and on the top (to improve the efficiency of the fridge), some kind of plastic panels fastened to the box framing, and carry handles tied into the framing on the two sides so that two people can move the box with the refrigerator mounted inside.

The refrigerator is an Isotherm Cruise Elegance 130. It weighs about 55-60 lbs. It is about 29 1/2 inches high, 20 1/2 inches wide, and 21 inches deep (to the front of the door), so I expect the finished dimensions to be about 22 1/2 inches wide, 31 1/2 inches high, and 22 inches deep. Some cleverness will be required to accommodate the compressor/coil unit that sticks out almost an inch in the back and the air flow that it needs.

Most people stick refrigerators like this into a piece of built-in cabinetry with a cutout of the proper dimensions. I need mine to be removable from the van when I'm not using it for camping. I searched forum posts but didn't find any prior art. Any suggestions before I start experimenting? 8020 profiles (1"x1"?) Types of connectors that can hold it together, especially supporting the vertical load on the bottom from the refrigerator weight?
Find out from the fridge manufacturer exactly where the airflow needs to be to cool the condenser coil. On ours, I have a space below it for air to come from the front and up the back past the coil. The guy I bought it from pointed out that it would improve cooling.

Regards,

Mark
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Pending on your budget you could request design and material from 80/20.net. You would likely need to provide them with:
- size of the fridge including insulation and clearance
- required opening for venting, most likely open rear wall would suffice
- fridge to cabinet mounting points, for example my fridge is hold with 4 #10 screws from the front
- cabinet to van anchoring points, ideally to the floor.
For an experienced designer familiar with 80/20 it would be less than an hour to get drawings, list of profiles, fasteners, and walls. To reduce the weight for portability I would suggest using 6 mm Polygal. Good luck.
 

elemental

Wherever you go, there you are.
Find out from the fridge manufacturer exactly where the airflow needs to be to cool the condenser coil. On ours, I have a space below it for air to come from the front and up the back past the coil. The guy I bought it from pointed out that it would improve cooling.
The manufacturer publishes a diagram showing air enter at the lower rear left side, traversing the back of the unit, and exiting at the upper rear right side. The same manufacturer also describes verbally having air enter beneath the unit, flow up the back and go through the compressor coils. After 24 hours of operation, I know that the only heat generation is occurring in the compressor coils, and not on either the bottom or the rear of the unit. At the same time, the compressor subsystem of my particular model has a box fan that pulls air straight in from the back in the upper right corner back side, pushes it into the notch in the case with the compressor unit, and forces it out the upper rear right side. The diagram appears to be used for multiple models, including one that has the compressor mounted across the whole back of the unit.

I know that I need airflow into the box fan, which blows into the compressor/coil assembly. Having the air come from the floor level (possibly cooler) to supply the input to the box fan makes sense. Having it vent out the side makes sense (it's the only direction the air can flow). I need to measure how big a gap I need in the between the back of the fridge and the back of my cabinet to let enough air flow to supply the fan. These things are normally installed in a built-in cabinet that probably has a little more void in the back than I want to have. Perhaps I need to leave the insulation off of the back to get the airflow.
 

marklg

Well-known member
I don't know what yours looks like, but I have insulation on the top part of the back and an exhaust fan. Sorry, no pictures.

Link to some of my modifications in my profile About tab. Mostly woodworking and some Aluminum angle and bars. Don't know squat about 80/20, but I've seen some really nice work in these forums.

Regards,

Mark
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
Why use 80/20?

Would be easier and lighter to make a composite insulation box of 1/8" fiberglass and polyiso rigid insulation. 3 layers: 1/8" shower fiberglass/polyiso/1/8" shower fiberglass. Glued together to make a panel. Isothermal refrigerator must have some method of bolting the refrigerator to a structure. Use that to bolt the panel box to the refrigerator. Then you would need some method of bolting the refrigerator and composite box to the van to prevent movement in an accident. Box would have the required openings for air flow.

The other choice would be 7/32" plywood instead of fiberglass to make it easier to glue the panels together at the corners.

Suspect that size refrigerator would require two people to move it in/out of the van. I do not think I could carry my 85 liter refrigerator in/out of the van much less a 130 liter.
 

elemental

Wherever you go, there you are.
Why use 80/20?

Would be easier and lighter to make a composite insulation box of 1/8" fiberglass and polyiso rigid insulation. 3 layers: 1/8" shower fiberglass/polyiso/1/8" shower fiberglass. Glued together to make a panel. Isothermal refrigerator must have some method of bolting the refrigerator to a structure. Use that to bolt the panel box to the refrigerator. Then you would need some method of bolting the refrigerator and composite box to the van to prevent movement in an accident. Box would have the required openings for air flow.

The other choice would be 7/32" plywood instead of fiberglass to make it easier to glue the panels together at the corners.

Suspect that size refrigerator would require two people to move it in/out of the van. I do not think I could carry my 85 liter refrigerator in/out of the van much less a 130 liter.
I gravitated towards 8020 because I'm thinking of the box as if it is a very small portable cabinet that can support the weight of the refrigerator on the bottom, with the bottom pulling down on the sides when it is being moved.

If I can solve my structural support problem without 8020 then your enclosure suggestions may come in handy. I was already planning on using 1 inch rigid insulation in the sides and top.

The mechanical strength of the connections from the refrigerator frame to the enclosure is limited; only four small screws that pass through the frame from the inside and screw into the enclosure frame. They are only intended to keep the refrigerator from sliding out due to acceleration or heeling, not carry the weight of the unit.

The Isotherm refrigerator is made to be supported from the bottom (on the factory-supplied feet) only. Structurally I'm thinking I need a basket that will support the weight at the bottom where the feet are, with the sides holding it in place to it doesn't slip off the feet, and from tension from the bottom up the sides to side-mounted handles about half-way up. The refrigerator only weighs about 55 or 60 lbs. I can pick it up but the size makes it too awkward to safely move by myself quickly. My normal relocation procedure will use two people lift it, one on each side. Kind of like stage sound equipment.
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
The Isotherm refrigerator is made to be supported from the bottom (on the factory-supplied feet) only. Structurally I'm thinking I need a basket that will support the weight at the bottom
Make a test panel using 7/32" plywood faces glued to 1" rigid insulation. You will be surprised how strong it is and it will easily support the refrigerator.

I made my bed platform using 1" rigid insulation with a top layer of 7/32" plywood and a bottom layer of indoor/outdoor carpet. I can kneel on the panel getting in/out of bed without any damage to the panel. Would be even stronger if both faces were plywood.

I am a confirmed 80/20 proponent and believe in 80/20 for conversions. Do not think 80/20 is required for this application.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I would use 80/20. 4 posts full height, inner horizontal extrusions attached to posts with end connectors. Top countertop attached with 4 screws to tapped centers of posts. See my galley how the fridge is mounted. Total 4 posts, 4 top/bottom/front/back bars, 4 top/bottom/left side/right side in sum 12 precuts by 80/20 folks. Posts bottoms could be finished with plastic end caps attached with flat head screws to prevent marring the floor.


ZGR71181.jpg
 

elemental

Wherever you go, there you are.
I came up with probable reason why Isotherm suggests the airflow should pass underneath the refrigerator cabinet, up the back, and then into the compressor notch: even though insulated, the refrigerator exterior is cooled by the cooler temperatures inside. Passing air under the refrigerator and then up the back has a cooling effect on the air being forced into the compressor notch which should help keep the compressor and electronics from overheating.

If I use 1 inch thick insulation on the sides, top, and back of the refrigerator, then a channel in the insulation leading from the bottom of the back to the compressor notch allow the air to flow under the door in the front, across the bottom, up the back, and into the compressor notch. I think I'll angle the channel so that it passes over the center of the back for the most cooling effect. This diagram is a view of the back; it assumes 1" framing members, but that detail is not firm yet.

Refrigerator Box for CR EL 130 rear side ventaliation study 20200814.png
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I would suggest to follow the fridge manual and provide sufficient vent opening (square inches) to fulfill required spec.

My vent on the bottom is per spec and is fully open in the back. I am not convinced that channeling air via 80/20 diagonal braces will make a difference.

Fridge is well insulated from the factory; I doubt you will be cool air by fridge’s walls.

See page #5.
 

Attachments

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
I covered all sides of my Isotherm fridge with 1” of poly-iso insulation being sure to leave a minimum 1” gap on the backside for air flow per Isotherm. I also have large vents on top and bottom with two 80mm computer fans to assist air movement. Even without the “booster” fans the ”chimney effect” will draw cool air in from the bottom expelling hot air at the top.

AA56268B-00F2-4901-833D-1CD136E47F8C.jpeg
 

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