My Electrical System Layout

ctmcdaniel

Cross Member
If it was mine and you had the space i would put in one 300ah life blue with the internal heater and take out the shunt and victron 712.

I would also consider the 12/2000 victron inverter.

On further thought 200AH life blue and run the moter when you have really high peak loads on you inverter.

Tom
 

marklg

Well-known member
Given the long cycle life of LFP batteries, adding another one a year down the line is fine. Ideally it will be the same capacity and brand. The wide and flat LFP voltage/SOC curve means they won't fight each other like mismatched lead will.

Note that all batteries in parallel need balanced wiring. Your diagram shows a balanced config.
It's kind of interesting. My batteries are not all together, so they are not wired in a perfectly balanced way. My Lifeblues, over a year, with about three weeks total of boondocking and about 6 weeks with driving / hookups have between 30 and 33 cycles on them. They define cycles as a full discharge / charge cycle. So, they are balancing themselves pretty well, and will likely outlast the van based on the number of cycles. I think the Solar helps that, keeping the batteries from discharging as much and filling them up every day.

If it was mine and you had the space i would put in one 300ah life blue with the internal heater and take out the shunt and victron 712.

I would also consider the 12/2000 victron inverter.

On further thought 200AH life blue and run the moter when you have really high peak loads on you inverter.

Tom
I don't have any external shunt or monitor. The batteries themselves provide way more information individually. If one were going bad, you could tell. I got four 100Ah batteries because they fit where I already had space. If i were starting from scratch, I might have considered the bigger ones. It is nice that the 100Ah ones are not very heavy. All my batteries are in wells. It was a real pain to get the Lead Acid ones out and really worry about them slipping and shorting to the metal framing of the wells. You can pick up the Lithiums with one hand.

Regards,

Mark
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
have between 30 and 33 cycles on them.
That indicates a 30% 10% imbalance average per cycle. At higher current levels that could be a 30% or higher load imbalance between batteries. It's not going to destroy anything, but don't expect to get anywhere near the rated max current of the batteries.
 
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marklg

Well-known member
That indicates a 30% imbalance average per cycle. At higher current levels that could be a 30% or higher load imbalance between batteries. It's not going to destroy anything, but don't expect to get anywhere near the rated max current of the batteries.
Isn't that a 10% imbalance? I can see a load imbalance when using high currents, but it's "good enough". I can run my 3kW inverter full bore without things shutting down. The big wiring helps. Since they claim 2800 cycles to 83% capacity, that would be 85 years for the worst one. Are there any other wearout mechanisms for LiFePO4s besides cycles? Here in AZ, sealed lead acid batteries evaporate water through the case and only last maybe three to five years.

Regards,

Mark
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Are there any other wearout mechanisms for LiFePO4s besides cycles? Here in AZ, sealed lead acid batteries evaporate water through the case and only last maybe three to five years.
High temperatures kill lithium batteries too. You can expect 1-5% capacity loss yearly due to calendar aging. The major factors are average temperature and average SOC. With SOC above 95% being the most impactful. Floating at 100% 300 days a year in 90F average temps would yield 5%, maybe more capacity loss per year.

Due to calendar aging, your average LFP pack will last 5-10 years. If treated conservatively, in modest average ambient temps, that can be 15 years.
 

VanGoSki

Well-known member
BTW, a 30A charger on a 300-400AH battery is going to take a long time to charge. I know you said that you'll typically be driving between locations. But let's say you use 60% of your 300 AH battery. That would take about 6 hours to charge. 80% would be 8 hours. Just something to keep in mind.
 

kpmnd85

Member
A couple of questions...
1) Do I need to put some type of fireproof isolating fabric inside of my wooden box which will hold the majority of my electronics?
2)Can I remove the grey circuit breaker load box (see below) and just mount the black 110V fuse holder / connection point to the wood panel?
Thanks,
Ric

C29B2F64-D120-4683-99AB-9AAC7ACEC5FD_1_105_c.jpeg
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
I strongly suggest you have some type of enclosure isolating your 120V from 12V components. This is similar to the ABYC code requirements.
 

kpmnd85

Member
Shouldn't be a problem.
I'm using a Victron DC-DC Charger which has isolation and intelligence to not drain the starter battery. I enScreen Shot 2020-08-19 at 4.29.45 PM.pngded up connecting to an empty stud, see picture below, in the main battery compartment and ran that to a 50 amp resettable fuse which I installed under the drivers seat. The other connection point looked to have various circuits. Is this ok? Appreciate all the helpful advice.
 
I'm using a Victron DC-DC Charger which has isolation and intelligence to not drain the starter battery. I ended up connecting to an empty stud, see picture below, in the main battery compartment and ran that to a 50 amp resettable fuse which I installed under the drivers seat. The other connection point looked to have various circuits. Is this ok? Appreciate all the helpful advice.
I connected my B2B charger to the same stud and don't have any problems. There is a 'cleaner' way of doing it by connecting to the terminal that's underneath the seat. Either works.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
You can get fire-resistant paint for the wood of the cabinet. It might make a difference if some sub-component got rambunctious.

--dick
 

hdaniels

Well-known member
It would would be nice to see a couple photos of your system when you complete it, to see how you got everything to fit in a compact space.
 

kpmnd85

Member
It would would be nice to see a couple photos of your system when you complete it, to see how you got everything to fit in a compact space.
My present solution is what I would refer to as a prototype. A wooden box structure that can be easily modified. I've left a lot of space. As the inverter and charger request 4" and 2.5" of clear surround space. But I did install a cooling fan which kicks in with automatic temp sensing. I'll see how this performs and then I do plan to condense it. I'll post before and after shots.
 

hilld

Well-known member
Thanks. Here is the Powerpoint version if you want to modify.

I got a lot of help from Eric at BattleBorn Batteries on the design of the system. We talked about using the charger portion of the Multiplus Inverter / charger. I'm definitely not an expert here so others may weigh in. I think one feature the DC-DC charger has is isolation. Since I am not going through the E36 Cutoff / Aux Battery module, I need to Isolate the House system from the starter system. I believe the charger adds this functionality. Not sure if the Multiplus does this as it seems to be invisioned for the solar side of charging but others can correct me if I have this all wrong. I guess the other point is that the DC-DC adds a little over $200 to a system that is over $4K so not a big add in cost.
I am not seeing the attached PP file, can you PM me the link. This diagram looks very similar to what I want to do, with the exception of 2 things. I don't have an Aux battery currently, so my plan is to install the 2nd alternator and keep them separate. I also plan on installing 300-400W of panels right away while I have the van gutted and get the holes drilled and wiring fished to the roof.

Thanks for posting this.
 

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