Help!! Stuck on roadside in Scotland with Electrical problems.

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Do you think you could split off the chart for C2 and C3 as well please? I would forever be in your debt esp if this helps to illuminate the issue. Thanks ☺
Here you go...
 

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Merky sprinter,
If you would like to have it, I have downloaded the complete OEM Build/Assembly Data
Card for your 2001 311 KA Series 3000mm-118" wheelbase Sprinter.
It was built/assembled in the main Sprinter assembly plant in Dusseldorf on 5-31-2001.
So, you have the 4 cylinder OM611 engine, power category II in the MS3 Engine version Euro III
tune and the GH3 Gearbox G 32-5/5,0.
So, you have a 2.2 liter 4 cylinder DOHC 16 valve engine which is probably 109 horsepower.
Is your transmission a manual/stick shift, a semi-automatic Sprint shift, or an early 5G-Tronic
automatic?
The OEM Data card is nice to have but have you really checked thoroughly for the original
Owner's Manual and the Fuse Allocation Chart?
If you determine you need a complete wiring loom/harness, if you can identify which one,
the MB Parts data base should provide a part number.
Roger
Are you able to provide me with wiring diagram for my 611? I would really appreciate it as all other diagrams so far don't match up. Thanks
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
So the diagrams don't match up the engine bay side seems consistent but not where that meets the ecu ports. "Sailquik" said it is a 611 this engine i don't suppose you would be able to find other diagrams?
Sorry but virtually all the info I have collected over the years originates from this site so has a NAS bias. I have a Haynes manual but that only has very generic wiring diagrams for lights, etc. and nothing Sprinter specific!

Keith.
 
Sorry but virtually all the info I have collected over the years originates from this site so has a NAS bias. I have a Haynes manual but that only has very generic wiring diagrams for lights, etc. and nothing Sprinter specific!

Keith.
Thanks Keith I also have the haynes manual. It does not cover the ecu plugs sadly. And again is very generic.

I guess im back to the elimination. I may have isolated 3 wires. But I also may have not if my methods are flawed or the ECU is to blame.i also only have 3 fuses left to play with... Ah the fun. Time for a cuppa me thinks 😁
 
Update, i am down to 2 wires from the ECU that when connected blow a fuse. I am also on my last fuse. With the ignition off both read a current earth. With the ignition on 1 reads 12v and the other reads a connection to earth still.

Tracking these wires they lead up behind the intake manifold and disappear in the network on top of the engine. They don't serve any sensors that are visible. I presume they serve the injectors/glowplugs.

Is the cover ontop of the engine below the manifold okay to remove? This is my last avenue of enquiry before handing it over to the mechanics on Monday.

Thanks for all the help so far 😊
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
...

Is the cover ontop of the engine below the manifold okay to remove? This is my last avenue of enquiry before handing it over to the mechanics on Monday.

Thanks for all the help so far 😊
Black plastic cover? That is ok to remove. In fact the 5 cylinder diesels have a wire harness aka loom that exits from the cover and has some history of chafe. The Crankcase Heater 12 volt supply may feed through there.

I would keep the 25 amp fuse and try using 20 amp fuses. A 20 amp fuse should be good for your testing. If the 20 amp holds it is safe to assume the 25 amp will be ok.

:2cents: vic
 
Black plastic cover? That is ok to remove. In fact the 5 cylinder diesels have a wire harness aka loom that exits from the cover and has some history of chafe. The Crankcase Heater 12 volt supply may feed through there.

I would keep the 25 amp fuse and try using 20 amp fuses. A 20 amp fuse should be good for your testing. If the 20 amp holds it is safe to assume the 25 amp will be ok.

:2cents: vic
Indeed. I had the intake off yesterday to have a snoop. But didnt take off the cover as it was late and wanted the intake back on to protect the engine. I am nearly out of 20 amp fuses too. May be able to pinch one from another circuit though good shout!
 
If memory serves the OM611 intake obscures access to the harness in places. What colors are the wires in question? Can you take a guess at the gauge/size?
Yep it definitely obscures the view.
So the wires in question are Brown/Green and Red/Blue and come from C4 on the ECU I don't know about guage with wires here's a pic
IMG_20200809_141425.jpg
 
Major update! Help sought. So I have found the trouble makers they have no insulation and are metal to metal.
This is under the injector cover.
Now I can replace the wires no problem. But the cause here is not clear. Here's some pictures and questions after. I hope someone can help me with this as it looks like I can get going again today all being well.
IMG_20200809_150605.jpg
So first question what is this wire feeding?
Secondly is this a known wear area?
Also I am concerned by the level solidified black gunk at this end of the engine? Is this most likely to be diesel solidified over time with engine heat?or oil? Its hard gritty and and oilly to the touch..
Could this oil/fuel/heat be the cause of the insulation and protective sheath braking down? As it seems to pull to pieces easily.
 

trc.rhubarb

Well-known member
Does wire that not loop right back around and plug into the camshaft position sensor next to your fuel injector?

When you reach a stopping point, you've got a heck of a cleanup job ahead. That's diesel from a leaking fuel injector seat. Often referred to here and on other forums as black death. No death involved, just a massive cleanup and resealing the injector. Yours is bad but people have come back from much much worse.
 

BrennWagon

He’s just this guy, you know?
Agreed that the wires look like they’re going to the cam sensor. Separate and insulate the wires somehow until you get back to civilization. Once you do, be sure to buy some electrical tape to keep in the van. A fault in the cam sensor circuit will definitely prevent engine startup. You’ve done a great job of troubleshooting and finding the fault!
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Does that look like injector seal leakage in the background to anyone else? That could have contributed to wire insulation damage.

To the OP, that gunk is probably from an injector to head seal leaking. Its not uncommon as the vans age, and repair can be accomplished by removing the injector, cleaning the seat/bore, and replacing the seal. Note that the black tar substance can cause the injector to sieze in the bore, so you need to follow the correct procedure to remove. See the various "black death" writeups. Unfortunately in your case it looks like the leak has gone on for some time, so you will have many hours of cleanup to remove the gunk and preserve the wiring harnesses.
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Good work on chasing down the fault Merky and sorry to see you have Black Death, but at least now you know the cause!

Search the T1N section of the forum for black death and you'll get a good idea of what you're up against.

PS Sorry I haven't responded for a couple of hours but we had my Mum over for Sunday lunch.

All the best with the fix,
Keith.
 
Does wire that not loop right back around and plug into the camshaft position sensor next to your fuel injector?

When you reach a stopping point, you've got a heck of a cleanup job ahead. That's diesel from a leaking fuel injector seat. Often referred to here and on other forums as black death. No death involved, just a massive cleanup and resealing the injector. Yours is bad but people have come back from much much worse.
Nope it slips behind the injector to the plug at the top left.
Ooo black death. Ill be sure to be on that as soon I'm near a city. Thanks for the heads up!
 
Does that look like injector seal leakage in the background to anyone else? That could have contributed to wire insulation damage.

To the OP, that gunk is probably from an injector to head seal leaking. Its not uncommon as the vans age, and repair can be accomplished by removing the injector, cleaning the seat/bore, and replacing the seal. Note that the black tar substance can cause the injector to sieze in the bore, so you need to follow the correct procedure to remove. See the various "black death" writeups. Unfortunately in your case it looks like the leak has gone on for some time, so you will have many hours of cleanup to remove the gunk and preserve the wiring harnesses.
Excuse my naivity. "OP"? So is this likely to cause anymore damage say over the next 1500miles if so? Not sure how much I can do on the roadside. Im not adverse to though. I will check the black death write ups for sure tomorrow. Just got the beach so going to have a night off!
 
Good work on chasing down the fault Merky and sorry to see you have Black Death, but at least now you know the cause!

Search the T1N section of the forum for black death and you'll get a good idea of what you're up against.

PS Sorry I haven't responded for a couple of hours but we had my Mum over for Sunday lunch.

All the best with the fix,
Keith.
Thanks Keith. You have been a great help as well as others on here. Its given me the head space to chat the process through and keep on chipping away.

It sounds like a fun clean up and re seal is ahead but atleast we're back up and moving again.

No worries everyone has been super helpful and we got it sort before being towed to a garage and paying time on mechanics rates.

Just got to the coast and taken a long dip to strip off some of the blood sweat and sprinter grease.

IMG_20200809_184007.jpg
Thanks again. So chuffed right now 😁

Luke
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
And that's Ailsa Craig on the horizon!

Fantastic news on getting moving again!

Keep in touch,
Keith

PS Where is home?
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Excuse my naivity. "OP"? So is this likely to cause anymore damage say over the next 1500miles if so? Not sure how much I can do on the roadside. Im not adverse to though. I will check the black death write ups for sure tomorrow. Just got the beach so going to have a night off!
OP (Original Poster, In this case you)

No need to tackle the problem right away. However that black lava mess will only continue to grow, so I suggest getting it sorted in the next 1,000 miles. As it continues to leak, the hot gasses will erode the seal, and sometimes the head sealing surface below it. Which over time can make the repair a bit more difficult. When caught early the repair only takes an hour or two to pull the injector and replace the seal washer.
 

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