Help!! Stuck on roadside in Scotland with Electrical problems.

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Look at pages:

8W - 30 - 9 for pins 7 & 8 both BK/BL
pins 4, 5 & 6 all BR Grounds
8W - 30 - 12 pin 1 BK/RD
 
The short stops when you unplug the ECU. I would think a short in the ignition lines would cause a different fuse to blow. I'm leaning to a bad ECU. A friend had an ECU that was outputting 12v to the accelerator pedal, burning out the accelerator who was only wanting +5v. So things can go wrong inside the box.
I hope you find a cheaper solution. Just my thoughts.
(Please disregard my name, it has nothing to do with this)
I hope not. I will keep hunting hot spots until I am recovered as it did happen following a verh bumpy drive fingers crossed
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
I wouldn't condemn the ECU aka ECM too quickly.

Is this an OM612 5 cylinder engine? If yes, there are 2 ea. external circuits fed by the 25 amp fuse. The Water in Fuel WIF 12 volt supply, and the Crankcase Heater 12 volt supply. You mentioned rough road. It may be a harness aka loom issue.

I would closely check the harness aka loom by following back from those components. Wiggling the harness and lifting it off any ground aka earth contact may help to locate a problem area. Look for areas where the loom makes turns around or rests against metal.

Even if the engine is not an OM612, the same circuits may be fed by the 25 amp fuse. 25 amp slot 16 holds for OM647 5 cylinder engine too.

Good luck.

vic
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
Added:
If you find a chafed area problem it doesn't need to be repaired using electrical tape. Any piece of sheet plastic to keep the exposed conductors aka wires separated from the problem area(s) will do.

vic
 

ECU

Well-known member
It just dawned on me that the plug you pulled could be an outgoing wire with the short.
The power going into the ECU could be fine and you've pulled the plug where the short is.
If you compared each of the plug wires with ground (continuity, ohm reading). Then check this against the wiring diagram. Any wire that is grounding that shouldn't be could be the culprit.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
The other way of identifying "OBD" versus "non-OBD" flavor is by the number of connectors on the ECM.
The "non-OBD" diagrams pertain if you have FIVE connectors, the "OBD" drawing cover the two-connector version.

Thus, even though US SPrinters are *all* OBD-compliant, the diagrams use that terminology (they could've said OM612/OM647, but they didn't).

--dick
 

owner

Well-known member
I would pull that faulty wire out of the connector and see if you can run like that.
 

Aqua Puttana

Poly - Thread Finder
I would pull that faulty wire out of the connector and see if you can run like that.
Worth trying.

I didn't check the wire colors that were mentioned. Depending upon what range the ohmmeter was/is on, the Crankcase Heater could look like a short. A 12 volt heater resistance reading can be pretty low.

vic
 

sailquik

Well-known member
Merky sprinter,
If you would like to have it, I have downloaded the complete OEM Build/Assembly Data
Card for your 2001 311 KA Series 3000mm-118" wheelbase Sprinter.
It was built/assembled in the main Sprinter assembly plant in Dusseldorf on 5-31-2001.
So, you have the 4 cylinder OM611 engine, power category II in the MS3 Engine version Euro III
tune and the GH3 Gearbox G 32-5/5,0.
So, you have a 2.2 liter 4 cylinder DOHC 16 valve engine which is probably 109 horsepower.
Is your transmission a manual/stick shift, a semi-automatic Sprint shift, or an early 5G-Tronic
automatic?
The OEM Data card is nice to have but have you really checked thoroughly for the original
Owner's Manual and the Fuse Allocation Chart?
If you determine you need a complete wiring loom/harness, if you can identify which one,
the MB Parts data base should provide a part number.
Roger
 
Merky sprinter,
If you would like to have it, I have downloaded the complete OEM Build/Assembly Data
Card for your 2001 311 KA Series 3000mm-118" wheelbase Sprinter.
It was built/assembled in the main Sprinter assembly plant in Dusseldorf on 5-31-2001.
So, you have the 4 cylinder OM611 engine, power category II in the MS3 Engine version Euro III
tune and the GH3 Gearbox G 32-5/5,0.
So, you have a 2.2 liter 4 cylinder DOHC 16 valve engine which is probably 109 horsepower.
Is your transmission a manual/stick shift, a semi-automatic Sprint shift, or an early 5G-Tronic
automatic?
The OEM Data card is nice to have but have you really checked thoroughly for the original
Owner's Manual and the Fuse Allocation Chart?
If you determine you need a complete wiring loom/harness, if you can identify which one,
the MB Parts data base should provide a part number.
Roger
This is good stuff thanks. It is a manual shift gearbox. The fuse allocation chart on the steering column says slot 16 25a for diesel ECU.

What I am trying to determine is whether or not the red and black wire coming from C1 which is continuous with earth (and I do not think should be according to similar diagrams) on the ECU is tracking straight back to slot 16 column fuse or feeding another.

If it is heading straight back to the fuse board could I just jack a new 12v 25amp supply and cut him off by the ECU?

Thus i think the actual wiring diagram could be very helpful. Correct me if I'm wrong here please.
 
This is good stuff thanks. It is a manual shift gearbox. The fuse allocation chart on the steering column says slot 16 25a for diesel ECU.

What I am trying to determine is whether or not the red and black wire coming from C1 which is continuous with earth (and I do not think should be according to similar diagrams) on the ECU is tracking straight back to slot 16 column fuse or feeding another.

If it is heading straight back to the fuse board could I just jack a new 12v 25amp supply and cut him off by the ECU?

Thus i think the actual wiring diagram could be very helpful. Correct me if I'm wrong here please.
Ok so a correction. The red and black wire from C1 reads 12v with ignition on and continuous with earth when off. All this with no 25amp fuse in place

The blue and black wires read nothing without the 25amp. And both read continuous with earth with 25 amp fuse in and ignition off. They also both read 12v with ignition on

However, when C1 is connected to the ECU pop goes the weazel and I loose the 25amp fuse which appears to serve the 2 blue and black wires.
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
This is good stuff thanks. It is a manual shift gearbox. The fuse allocation chart on the steering column says slot 16 25a for diesel ECU.

What I am trying to determine is whether or not the red and black wire coming from C1 which is continuous with earth (and I do not think should be according to similar diagrams) on the ECU is tracking straight back to slot 16 column fuse or feeding another.

If it is heading straight back to the fuse board could I just jack a new 12v 25amp supply and cut him off by the ECU?

Thus i think the actual wiring diagram could be very helpful. Correct me if I'm wrong here please.
Merky,

Here is the relevant page for fuses 16 and 17 and the connections to the ECM...

Keith.

Edit to add: The Red/Black wire should be fed from Fuse 17 in this diagram.
 

Attachments

Merky,

Here is the relevant page for fuses 16 and 17 and the connections to the ECM...

Keith.

Edit to add: The Red/Black wire should be fed from Fuse 17 in this diagram.
Nice one. So I assume that is for a petrol engine as it is a 15amp fuse on 16. And this 25amp as that is what it says on the fuse board chart for a variation.

Basically that suggests that both blue and black wires head straight from C1 to the slot 16 of the fuse board. I'm very tempted to cut a new fused 12v supply. However could be something beyond the supply to the ECU? Either the ecu itself or one of the circuits it serves?
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Nice one. So I assume that is for a petrol engine...
No, T1N's only ever had Diesels in the USA where the files originated. May be slight differences as USA had EGR and UK did not. You really need the specific fuse allocation for your own Sprinter as generic can have errors.

Keith.
 
No, T1N's only ever had Diesels in the USA where the files originated. May be slight differences as USA had EGR and UK did not. You really need the specific fuse allocation for your own Sprinter as generic can have errors.

Keith.
Ok great. So this morning i decided to run a process of elimination to eliminate good circuits from my enquiries.

Assuming the ECU ports are number C1 - C5 left to right. And now assuming C1 is the power supply.
C1 attached with no other ports does not effect the fuse. So it is not a problem between the fuse and C1. The fuse appears to pop when C4 is attached.

So I need to hunt out the wiring for C4 in order to start eliminating each circuit. This is makes me a bit more hopeful it isnt the ECU and that the problem is a forward circuit. But who I'm knows what goes on in the ghost brain of this beast!?
 
Here are the pages with C4 wiring...
Update. So assuming C1 is always attached for power. C2/3/4 will blow the fuse when in together without C5 but no variation of them put in in doubles or simultaneously pop a fuse. This suggests and interaction between circuits unless they share something in common somewhere urgh.. ECU?

Do you think you could split off the chart for C2 and C3 as well please? I would forever be in your debt esp if this helps to illuminate the issue. Thanks ☺
 

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