I agree with the feel method. The pan bolts hold the spacer blocks into place. The blocks automatically set the proper spacing for the reusable rubber seal. Tight enough. Don't strip them.
Same with the torque converter drain bolt. Tight enough. Don't strip it.
I did find this.
Connector body install
"Use ATF to lube the new O-rings -also lube the exterior of the new socket and carefully align the 3 indexing slots. They will assure subsequent correct alignment of the delicate elec pins within the socket holes. Once the slots are aligned exert pressure (don't worry you won't harm it) on the socket's outer end - the o-rings will compress and the socket will "pop" into position.
Make certain its fully seated then tighten the small bolt to correct torque. Using a stubby 1/4" drive wrench w/7mm socket- only about 22 in./lbs. is sufficient (gentle hand torque-if you lack a small torque wrench)." Doktor A
I cleaned everything on the transmission thoroughly, pan, above pan and everywhere I could reach. I dropped the pan, changed the fluid from pan and converter, changed strainer, used new rubber gasket.
Torqued the bolts 70in/lbs.
vic