Pressurized Coolant + Oil Blowby Help/Thoughts

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
I ran about 800 miles on a quart per 200 miles fluid loss. I managed it by a reduced cap of 15lb, with a pressure release cap. Then I rigged from the overflow pipe a line into a bottle snuggled against the radiator that caught the expelled coolant, which I put back in with barely a loss of the expensive G05 coolant. Here is the link: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/46211/post-830850, but the 2nd picture was of my first iteration of the bottle under the radiator. Not as convenient as right near the top.

Here is the link to the T1N Database on cap pressures: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/81896/
 

PhillipisHappy

New member
I ran about 800 miles on a quart per 200 miles fluid loss. I managed it by a reduced cap of 15lb, with a pressure release cap. Then I rigged from the overflow pipe a line into a bottle snuggled against the radiator that caught the expelled coolant, which I put back in with barely a loss of the expensive G05 coolant. Here is the link: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/46211/post-830850, but the 2nd picture was of my first iteration of the bottle under the radiator. Not as convenient as right near the top.

Here is the link to the T1N Database on cap pressures: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/81896/

Thanks that is helpful to see how you rigged that up.
I've got an old cap that came with the van, its pretty loose and wobbly. When my coolant overflows it actually comes out the cap instead of nicely through the overflow. When I put a more solid fitting cap on thats when I had hoses come off or have it leak and spray through the overflow tank seam.



Vanski came out today on short notice and really helped me diagnose my problem - much appreciated! The problem wouldn't show itself for quite some time and he was pretty sure it was just a cap issue (which I had my fingers crossed for) We took the van out on a few drives and really gunned it with the new cap on that I got from Europarts-SD. We tried the glove test a few times, no dice. We took it up some extended steep hills and the van was fine. Decided to try one even steeper hill to really be sure and then we heard a loud SNAP sound and my low coolant light came on.

Limped it back to a parking lot not far away and popped the hood. The hose coming from the engine to the overflow tank had come off and the clamp snapped which is what made the loud noise. I had an extra clamp and we added some more G05 mixed with distilled water and took it home. Tried the glove test one more time and sure enough the glove filled up. Head gasket with the possibility of the head being warped.

I'm going to be putting a used engine in and a new tranny in the future. My current engine is definitely louder than the T1N Vanski brought by, mine had a ticking which his did not. Chris also recommended that a better tranny be put in with the new-to-me engine since mine wasn't shifting the best. Its nice to have it all diagnosed, although the outcome is a bummer and a financial set back. I'll be stoked to have a nice strong engine put in and hopefully keep myself on the road driving instead of repairing things.

Thanks again for sharing your time and knowledge Chris.
Vanski is very knowledgeable and a great resource for sprinter guys in the SF Bay Area.
 

vanski

'05 Box Snow Camper
No problem Phil. Sorry the prognosis wasn’t just a faulty cap. It took a while to rear it’s ugly head (lol) but it finally did.

..., thing about this leak is it would only leak @ 100% load.... and it needed to be pushed there a few times, and when it started leaking it was very evident.

Given the clacking, poor shifting, and signs pointing to a warped head and not just a gasket r/r, I agree, scrap the motor and the trans together, find a good donor, swap... swap your new injectors into your new to you motor, send the old Injectors back with the core.

if for whatever reason you can find a good head at a reasonable price... it might be worth doing the hg replacement given the injectors are fairly new and should come out no problem. Then there’s the tranny which may just need a proper fluid job?? it doesn’t necessarily need to be replaced but could be easy to do with a swap from the donor with the motor, assuming that one is in good shape.
 

PhillipisHappy

New member
No problem Phil. Sorry the prognosis wasn’t just a faulty cap. It took a while to rear it’s ugly head (lol) but it finally did.

..., thing about this leak is it would only leak @ 100% load.... and it needed to be pushed there a few times, and when it started leaking it was very evident.

Given the clacking, poor shifting, and signs pointing to a warped head and not just a gasket r/r, I agree, scrap the motor and the trans together, find a good donor, swap... swap your new injectors into your new to you motor, send the old Injectors back with the core.

if for whatever reason you can find a good head at a reasonable price... it might be worth doing the hg replacement given the injectors are fairly new and should come out no problem. Then there’s the tranny which may just need a proper fluid job?? it doesn’t necessarily need to be replaced but could be easy to do with a swap from the donor with the motor, assuming that one is in good shape.

I will consider that option thoroughly and look into a proper flush on the tranny. This is an expensive job no matter what so I want to make the best decision.
 

vanski

'05 Box Snow Camper
You may want to do an oil analysis on your motor up front to determine if there are any red flags... this will help out in the decision process. Blackstone Labs... there are others
 

billintomahawk

'02 2.7 T!N Freightliner
If you’ve got the clack that means the engine at one time was cooked, I’ve seen many an owner ask me what’s the best remedy to fix the clack. There really is none other than replace or complete rebuild.
jrod, I've got the clack up to 1200-1500 rpm more or less, then my engine goes silent and runs great without the clack, it runs great when it clacks, but it clacks starting out. I am the third owner, radiator was replaced at 50k for a coolant leak...smoking gun??

It's driving me a little crazy because I don't want to blow up. No smoke, great fuel mpg, great acceleration with GDE tune. No oil leaks or fuel leaks, no water leaks, runs cool, no black death, no codes. Injector leak off test great. Has been clacking for 10k miles at least.

Damn the clack continues. Maybe it always did but I just got sensitive to hearing it as my experience with the diesel engine became more refined?
Advice, anyone?
Live with it?

Pull the injectors and send them?

bill in tomahawk
 
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autostaretx

Erratic Member
Thermostat opens at 192F correct? I will check for bubbles.
My memory says 80 or 85 C .... 192 F is 88.8 C

My only comment on the cracked gasket is that escaping gasses can etch a slot on both sides of the gasket: head and engine block. Additional machining required ... and there is probably a limit as to how deep they can go.

--dick
 

vanski

'05 Box Snow Camper
A little clacking can come from many different sources. Even fouled injectors can cause clacking. In Phil’s case It does sound like the clack is bottom end in nature, but given the head was machined down, perhaps it’s the pistons hitting the head just a tiny bit. Probably not worth the test of pulling the head, but given the head wasn’t done too long ago and it’s been making that clack since he owned it and the other owner wanted to get out from under the vehicle, there’s a chance..
 

jrod5150

Active member
jrod, I've got the clack up to 1200-1500 rpm more or less, then my engine goes silent and runs great without the clack, it runs great when it clacks, but it clacks starting out. I am the third owner, radiator was replaced at 50k for a coolant leak...smoking gun??

It's driving me a little crazy because I don't want to blow up. No smoke, great fuel mpg, great acceleration with GDE tune. No oil leaks or fuel leaks, no water leaks, runs cool, no black death, no codes. Injector leak off test great. Has been clacking for 10k miles at least.

Damn the clack continues. Maybe it always did but I just got sensitive to hearing it as my experience with the diesel engine became more refined?
Advice, anyone?
Live with it?

Pull the injectors and send them?

bill in tomahawk
The clacking I am referring to From overheating and should be constant. If your head gasket isn’t blown and the van has some noise at a specific rpm I wouldn’t worry too much. Just keep on top of the cooling system and services. You can dig into the injectors but I’d personally do the leak down test. If it checks good why disturb it.
As Vanski says there’s all kinds of things that can cause clacking and if the pistons are hitting the head would it be worth replacing the head only to find out that it wasn’t the head and is something else? Too much potential for big money spent and still having a clack,
 

PhillipisHappy

New member
The clacking I am referring to From overheating and should be constant. If your head gasket isn’t blown and the van has some noise at a specific rpm I wouldn’t worry too much. Just keep on top of the cooling system and services. You can dig into the injectors but I’d personally do the leak down test. If it checks good why disturb it.
As Vanski says there’s all kinds of things that can cause clacking and if the pistons are hitting the head would it be worth replacing the head only to find out that it wasn’t the head and is something else? Too much potential for big money spent and still having a clack,

So are you suggesting that a motor replacement makes the most sense?
 

jrod5150

Active member
So are you suggesting that a motor replacement makes the most sense?
If you want to fix the clacking Yes, if you just want to fix the combustion leak then probably not. Just be prepared to buy a head if you go for just the combustion leak repair and the possibility that the clacking could still be there even with the head replaced
 

PhillipisHappy

New member
If you want to fix the clacking Yes, if you just want to fix the combustion leak then probably not. Just be prepared to buy a head if you go for just the combustion leak repair and the possibility that the clacking could still be there even with the head replaced
Ah I see, I feel like I will have to get a new head and not just a gasket. The clacking sort of disappears once I go above 55mph, its at lower speeds when its most notable.
 

owner

Well-known member
A clack at idle is most probably an overfuelling injector. You need to do the injector smooth runnning test using star diag.
 

jrod5150

Active member
A clack at idle is most probably an overfuelling injector. You need to do the injector smooth runnning test using star diag.
According to the inspection done by vanski of the noise being at the bottom end, I highly doubt an injector is going to be the cause.
 

jrod5150

Active member
Ah I see, I feel like I will have to get a new head and not just a gasket. The clacking sort of disappears once I go above 55mph, its at lower speeds when its most notable.
You probably just can’t hear it :LOL:. Your fighting two issues here. Don’t throw good money after bad.
 

vanski

'05 Box Snow Camper
To better inspect the clacking you could inspect the oil filter for metallic pieces. Little trick I picked up from Midwestdrifter is to cut away tge outside media of the filter and then rinse the filter into a coffee filter.

The oil analysis is a pretty sure bet to determine if the mechanics within the motor are messed up...
 

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