Sorry for not being more clear.Since I am almost certain it will be a Transit with dual alternator, I am quoting only numbers for that vehicle. So... If I have 400 Ah 12 V LiFePo4 battery pack, how long I have to drive to charge it? How do I "translate" 3000 Watt-hrs to Ah? Since it is 12-V system, does it means it will charge with ~ 20 amps? About 20 hrs? With 1000 Ah 48 hrs?
What is the advantage of going to 48V instead of 12V? Can the Transit charge it?
More like 99% of upfitters use 12 volt systems. You are most likely the only one building 48 volt systems for vans.- > 95% of upfitters use 12 volt only systems
- A few use 24 volt systems, especially marine electricians
- A few crazy people like me build 48 volt systems for vans, both for local use and I ship them to customers in a crate
Ignoring overheating, what's the use of 2*250A alternators in parallel if you can only get 175-235A out of them combined?
If it has windows, it's not stealthy by definition. Of course one can have different definition of "stealthy", but what I meant by stealthy was the "cargo van look". And I don't want to spent vacation sitting in my van at all. I want to see the beautiful National Parks, mountains and forests. Van will get me there and give me roof over my head at night.I made my RV stealthy with windows all around and even with that I made the dinette open to the rear.
You don't want to spend your vacations sitting in dark rat hole.
BTW do you have more of the pictures of your camper? Where I can see them?
I have to learn all that lingo, vernacular or jargon associated with "vaning" and RVing. I have enough problems with "regular" English. What "boondocking" means? What is NF? What does it mean to "position for 14'ers"?Polonium, we are just completing a month in Central Colorado, boondocking except when NF campground was necessary to position for 14’ers. We are serious hikers and spent many days out on trails. But there were also rest days, rainy days, mosquito-heavy days spent comfortably in the van still enjoying the outdoors through our maxed out windows which we never cover. Without windows, we would have missed the comical squirrel sex and this fellow (photo taken through window):
I am not sure how they gonna to register my van in NC, but in practice it shouldn't matter. I was driving coast-to-coast for many years, parking my 18-wheeler in strange places, avoiding truck stops always, if possible and very rarely had any problem with it. Of course traveling in the van I'd look for different places to park, but the point is still valid - most people probably doesn't care if that parked van near by has, or has not any windows. As long as it is not a 40-foot bus, it won't bother anyone.My bus looks like regural shuttle from the outside to untrained eye.Traveling Limo build
Time to show-off my project. :bow: I had old Truck Camper, who with aged exterior could not sell too well, so decided to use the part for Sprinter conversion. The goal is: -economical vehicle for fast travel to destination with our dogs -not showing it is conversion, so we can park it in front...sprinter-source.com
Going on your knees you might notice gray water dump valve and with 10' ladder you might notice solar panels, but nothing that association prohibiting RV parking can notice.
Bottom line, it is registered as limo.
I couldn't care less about cost. If I could pay more money and make my Sprinter reliable, I would gladly do so. They are great vans to travel in and would be worth expensive maintenance. What I care about is having trip after precious trip ruined by limp modes and "Visit Workshop" displays and "N starts remaining" conditions. Sadly, no amount of money will salvage a ruined trip that my family will never get back. Maybe the new Sprinters will be different. Maybe. But somebody other than me is going to have to do the experiment.You can analyze it to heck, but the simple answer to the original question is - if you have the money, and have a place to get it serviced, get a diesel sprinter. If you are stressed about cost constantly, get a transit.
Have a healthy dose of skepticism about all the reliability comments. The newest sprinters are too new to know how they will hold up. If you service it on schedule at the dealer, it will most likely last a really long time long time. I constantly wonder, if sprinters are so unreliable, why would Amazon be running so many of them?
"watts" are volts multiplied by amps. (W=V*A)Since I am almost certain it will be a Transit with dual alternator, I am quoting only numbers for that vehicle. So... If I have 400 Ah 12 V LiFePo4 battery pack, how long I have to drive to charge it? How do I "translate" 3000 Watt-hrs to Ah? Since it is 12-V system, does it means it will charge with ~ 20 amps? About 20 hrs? With 1000 Ah 48 hrs?
48 v allows thinner wires for the same *wattage* in a fixed time frame.What is the advantage of going to 48V instead of 12V? Can the Transit charge it?
"Boondocking" .... parking in a completely random location (i.e. not an official campground) and being able to exist without external hookups (power, water, sewer) for your desired length of time. In-city it might be called "stealth camping".I have to learn all that lingo, vernacular or jargon associated with "vaning" and RVing. I have enough problems with "regular" English. What "boondocking" means? What is NF? What does it mean to "position for 14'ers"?
You are not alone. Once the fear of the vehicle quitting a long way from a service location that fear does not go away.I couldn't care less about cost. If I could pay more money and make my Sprinter reliable, I would gladly do so. They are great vans to travel in and would be worth expensive maintenance. What I care about is having trip after precious trip ruined by limp modes and "Visit Workshop" displays and "N starts remaining" conditions. Sadly, no amount of money will salvage a ruined trip that my family will never get back. Maybe the new Sprinters will be different. Maybe. But somebody other than me is going to have to do the experiment.
And the reason Amazon is running so many of them is that they have been buying up every van they can get their hands on, regardless of marque. Moreover, reliability is not that big a deal for a fleet. The problems are easily repaired if you have access to the talent and parts. Not a big issue for them. Very big issue for me.
They are buying anything they can find. I see more and more Transits with Amazon logo too. Plus, if I am correct, they lease them to "Contracted Amazon Delivery Service Partners", who actually made the delivery, so they do not care. And usually they are located in big cities.if sprinters are so unreliable, why would Amazon be running so many of them?
Looks like I have to fill up a form, where I get those options:You should start paying attention how you register your vehicles.
I know a Polish Sheriff in Nevada. Very nice guy. https://szeryfusa.com/ We met last year in Reno. No, he didn't have to help me with anything, I was good and clean.Good thing the city had sergeant with Polish roots and he voided the ticket on the spot.
That's mine biggest concern. Especially if you go to Alaska. No problem in Charlotte, or in San Francisco, but in the middle of nowhere - that's different story. However that doesn't means that everyone, or the most of them breaks down. Most of them probably are trouble free. Hey, I even have 32-year old Fiat with no rust and running good. It happens.What I care about is having trip after precious trip ruined by limp modes and "Visit Workshop" displays and "N starts remaining" conditions. Sadly, no amount of money will salvage a ruined trip
Thx. What about the 12 appliances? If I have 12V lights, fans, refrigerator etc, do I need another adapter/converter to power them?A long time ago on a page far away:
48 v allows thinner wires for the same *wattage* in a fixed time frame.
So to charge a 3000 watt hour 12v system in one hour would require delivering 250 amps.
If using 48 v (4x12v), you'd only need 250/4= 63 amps for one hour.
--dick
Because you can't ignore overheating, especially for extended use when stationary or at low speeds. Also the output of an alternator is very rpm dependent.Ignoring overheating, what's the use of 2*250A alternators in parallel if you can only get 175-235A out of them combined?
Thanks
Many of the items that you would use in a van are available in both 12 and 24 volts (example refrigerators) so for a lot of people, especially DIYers, 24 volts makes more sense than 12 or 48 volts. 24 volt provides ~ 80% of the benefit of 48 volts which is very decent.Thx. What about the 12 appliances? If I have 12V lights, fans, refrigerator etc, do I need another adapter/converter to power them?
If I have the same double alternator in my van, can I charge faster 48V battery pack? And if so why?
As HarryN writes, 24v is a better choice if you're going to differ from the far more common (among RVs) 12v systems.Thx. What about the 12 appliances? If I have 12V lights, fans, refrigerator etc, do I need another adapter/converter to power them?
If I have the same double alternator in my van, can I charge faster 48V battery pack? And if so why?
Thx. I still have to learn more to even know how to ask the right questions. However when I start building that electric system, I would.Feel free to contact me either via pm or email if you want to discuss it more.
Harry
I can order Transit online with dual alternator without checking the "double battery" box. However that alternator has no options - it is a 12V unit. But if the 24/48V systems are build from 12V batteries, can they be charged from 12V alternator?the Transit document T-town provided shows that the two alternators are dealt with *separately* for "customer connections".
So you (at best) have 175 amps maximum from one of them, and "only" 60 amps from the other.
They are not designed to be directly combined (i.e. don't bolt them both to the same terminal).
*and* you apparently only get that 2nd (175 amp) connection point *if* you order the 2nd battery.
I have no idea if you can get that 2nd (175 amps) alternator at a voltage other than 12v.
...which raises the question of whether one could order a Transit with only a single alternator and use the mounting position for the second alternator to mount a third-party (independent) alternator and do it the "Sprinter way".I have no idea if you can get that 2nd (175 amps) alternator at a voltage other than 12v.
Ford's system also requires a user-supplied disconnect relay that Ford's Body Control Module can (de)activate to shed the user's loads (and additional batteries) when the engine management system deems it necessary.
The Sprinter "does it different" by only having one alternator for the Sprinter and "light" (40 amp) customer duties.
The N62 option just provides a bracket and the belt-drive pulley for a 2nd alternator ... and thereby lets you install *anything you want* onto that bracket: 3v, 6v, 12v, 24v, 48v ... they don't want to know or care ... it's in your lap.